GT 150 Piston Ring Gap

[StevenG10]

Looking for a spec on piston ring gap for my 87 GT 150, model J150STLCUR. I'm rebuilding it and had it bored for .030 oversized pistons. I'll be using Persan pistons. Thanks

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

General rule of ring gap for stock motors,.0035-.004 per inch of cylinder bore,so.013-.014 would be good...my opinion,Chris

[SJD1974]

I know this a old thread but do those numbers still apply when going up to 145 compression and using Wiseco pistons in steel boars?

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

Give a call…

[rgsauger]

I always let my Wiseco’s warm up good and proper before I get in it.

[SJD1974]

[QUOTE=SJD1974. I know this a old thread but do those numbers still apply when going up to 145 compression and using Wiseco pistons in steel bore?[/QUOTE]

Just to be clear when I posted my question I looked that it was a 150 didn't notice that it said 150gt. My question was for a 2l mercury.

[rgsauger]

Sjd, especially in cold water, it is important to build some heat in your motor before you throw the coal to it. That may mean a longer warm up than what you are used to if you are doing a blast off in a tournament. Just putting it out there that if you put all this time and effort and money into your motor, you do not want to get in a cold motor with Wiseco pistons. It takes a little discipline but I typically do not ever jump on a cold motor anyway.

And maybe I’m totally wrong and maybe I’m totally being cautious but I heard too many stories about cold seizing. I’m now two years on my rebuilt 2.4 and I swear it runs better every time I take it out.

Except for fuel. It drinks high octane like Ted Kennedy at an open bar. But I normally have it over 5000 RPMs also. That’s something to keep in mind before you raise your compression to 145. The days of 87 octane will be behind you.

[SJD1974]

[QUOTE=rgsauger;3381470]Sjd, especially in cold water, it is important to build some heat in your motor before you throw the coal to it. That may mean a longer warm up than what you are used to if you are doing a blast off in a tournament. Just putting it out there that if you put all this time and effort and money into your motor, you do not want to get in a cold motor with Wiseco pistons. It takes a little discipline but I typically do not ever jump on a cold motor anyway.

And maybe I’m totally wrong and maybe I’m totally being cautious but I heard too many stories about cold seizing. I’m now two years on my rebuilt 2.4 and I swear it runs better every time I take it out.

Except for fuel. It drinks high octane like Ted Kennedy at an open bar. But I normally have it over 5000 RPMs also. That’s something to keep in mind before you raise your compression to 145. The days of 87 octane will be behind you.[/QUOTe
I've been running either rec fuel or 93 octane since I got the boat 2 year's ago. I have to reduce water input by putting plugs in some of 14 holes in the lower and sometimes reducing how much flows through the popet. I have stats in it.
All the while watching water pressure.
I have two forms of ways to monitor temp, head Temp sensor and a actual gage with reading's.