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07-24-2014, 05:15 PM #16
3rd pic is wiring for low oil in big tank. 4th pic is wiring plug to VRO pump
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07-24-2014, 05:18 PM #17
Unless someone has a troubleshooting procedure, I guess I'm going to stick with the plan to run it for about a half hour out on the water this weekend on premix with the oil line disconnected and see if the alarm goes off. If it doesn't I'll connect the line and mark the tank and see if it burns oil while running premix and then I guess I'll find a service manual and continue to research troubleshooting the alarm system. Again, grounding tan does cause a constant alarm so I know the overheat side works. I wish there was a simple test like that for no oil.
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07-24-2014, 05:20 PM #18
Ok I have to look more closely at where the wires from the plug in the 4th pic go to the VRO pump. My tachometer works, where does the gray wire go to VRO pump? I didn't see that. Unless that's the wire that looks white that comes in under the manual fuel primer and buts up to the purple wire on that screw.
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07-24-2014, 05:24 PM #19
I have to look again, I can't tell where the white wire goes that butts up to the purple one. The purple wire is actually the electric primer I think. I'm not home now so i can't take a look.
I'm going to try to track these wires better tomorrow, and compare to the working engine.Last edited by at100plus; 07-24-2014 at 05:26 PM.
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07-24-2014, 07:52 PM #20
Primer should be purple/white. The gray-black-tan should go into the VRO, check that plug for a broken wire. Check the continuity through the plugs that hook together. That should be the plug in 4th pic. Wires will go into VRO from underneath. Sometimes hard to see.
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07-24-2014, 08:10 PM #21
To make buzzer sound on the no oil sensor in the VRO pump it is recomended you hit 1000rpm, and it will take some time to use up oil on flusher.
[QUOTE=at100plus;2662846]I'm trying to figure out why the alarm system won't detect that the oil tank isn't connected
Only if the float drops in the tank, will the circuit be completed to ground with the tan wire. that is when it will buzz. It can not detect the tank unhooked because circuit is open when unhooked. Just remember tan wire will make buzzer only when it is grounded. Hope I have not lost you. It is really simple, don't over think it.Last edited by perfmarine1; 07-24-2014 at 09:22 PM.
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07-24-2014, 11:02 PM #22Scream And Fly VIP
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Should be purple with whit tracer into primer, you have the old 3 wire as Greg mentioned and it does not have the purple. I agree sounds like you need to replace pump. I would use a clear hose and do the flow test. Just saw Greg mentioned primer wire I had not read all the posts.
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07-24-2014, 11:15 PM #235000 RPM
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Before you do all the running to see if the NO OIL warning works, disconnect the 3 wire plug from the VRO and ground the tan wire to make sure the horn sounds with the key ON. If not, then you have an engine wire problem since you said the horn works when you ground the either of the temp switch tan wires. You also have to be sure that the regulator and tach are in good shape as either can affect the voltage that powers the electronics inside the pump for the warning system. It the regulator or the tach is not up to snuff, you will not get a NO OIL alarm.
The 3-wire VRO was not very reliable as it got its voltage from the gray tach wire and that varied a lot. That is why they came out with the 4-wire VRO soon after to have a steady supply of 12V to operate the NO OIL warning system electronics.
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07-25-2014, 12:14 AM #24
Good info thanks ill check all that tomorrow and report back
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07-28-2014, 08:43 PM #25
Ok so I got the boat wet Saturday. Alarm never went off within 30 mins. I also had a problem with both motors accelerating past 3000 rpms. So I replaced that VRO pump and upgraded to the 4 wire. The new pump also came with the blue pulse limiter which I was plannin to get anyway. So although very expensive, I decided to do the other one too. If I'm gonna run VRO on 27 yr old motors it might as well be new ones with 4 wire and proper pulse limiter. Good news is both alarms went off with new VRO pumps and oil lines disconnected and as soon as I bled and connected they stopped. Bad news is I spent the whole weekend troubleshooting the RPM issue. Compression is good on all 12. I tied tight to the dock and put each in gear and brought up to 2500 rpm and pulled each plug wire, spark on all 6 under load. Ran both on outside fuel source, (remote tank) no joy. So I think maybe my carbs need to be rebuilt. The fuel tank and the fact that these motors sat for 10 years in storage is the only thing common and I ruled out fuel tank. One will make 3000 rpms the other barely 2500 and that one stalls as I accelerate. If they stall it takes prime and throttle on a fully warm motor to start it again. That's another reason I'm thinking carbs. They ran great on the hose and rev up/sound great in neutral but under load no go. At first I thought power packs or stator or trigger but what are the chances of that on both motors. I'm going to stop guessing and my mechanic is going to take a ride and do some diagnostic for me. I don't have service manual nor do I know how to test things like stator, trigger, timing...
Last edited by at100plus; 07-28-2014 at 09:08 PM.
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07-28-2014, 08:54 PM #26
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07-28-2014, 09:03 PM #27
Yea that's what I think too. I kinda expected to have to rebuild carbs but they ran so good on the hose I figured I'd give it a shot. Yes the timer bases do move freely and the little barrel at the top of the carbs is not damaged or out of round. I know those get out of shape sometimes.
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07-29-2014, 05:50 PM #28
Not a good idea pulling the plug wires when motor is running. Good way to blow the pack out. Remember CDI ignition,capacitor-discharge-ignition capacitor builds up and discharges,if it cant discharge to ground(spark plug) it can go back through ignition system and discharge. Thats 40,000 volts looking for a place to discharge. If it gets to pack BOOM
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07-29-2014, 06:17 PM #29
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07-29-2014, 10:56 PM #30