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  1. #31
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    well it looks like i no longer have the idle stabilizer. bullet connector was just hanging and male end is missing and cant find the module.

    i ran the boat today and notice a improvement overall. idle was smoother and the motor sounded more "right". holeshot def improved although i still feel it can use some tweaking to have a little more snap when i mash the throttle. my midrange power was better and smoother also. sunk you into the seat a little harder now. as for powerloading on trailer it imporved just a tiny bit. it had a tad more power but still just not revving up. when i let off it did not stall like before but it still kinda got bogged down and came close to stalling.

    i picked up a timing light and im borrowing a dial indicator thurs off a buddy. my manual says to set the timing cover pointer, you set the dial indicator on #1 and set the piston so it reads .462 and set the inditcator to the .462 mark. seems weird to me that would wouldnt find TDC on #1 and set the cover pointer to 0.

    my TPS seems to have settled around .26v after today. i made sure the screws were tight. WOT voltage is 7.6V. this is all reading with the engine off, key on as my engine will not idle with the temp sensor disconnected.

    hoping i find the timing off a little so i can set it and not still be chasing some ghost issue lol

  2. #32
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    Sounds like your on your way. Follow the manual for link and sync step by step in order do not skip a step. Check everything twice, get your idle timing close to 0deg running in gear. You should see more improvement yet. Good luck.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  3. #33
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    ive been told to get idle to 4 ATDC. my manual and label on the flywheel cover says spec is 0-9 ATDC and 16 BTDC WOT cranking. computer takes it to 22deg BTDC running

    sound right to you?

  4. #34
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    For some reason I assumed you had a 225 PM.seems you have a 150-200 XRI sorry for my brain fart. Still need to follow the link and sync to a tee. Does this motor have a detonation sensor and module? If idle timing spec is 9atdc to 0 still run better on bottom closer to 0 than 9atdc


    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  5. #35
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    Its a 98 200 EFI

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by njfishinguy View Post
    ive been told to get idle to 4 ATDC. my manual and label on the flywheel cover says spec is 0-9 ATDC and 16 BTDC WOT cranking. computer takes it to 22deg BTDC running

    sound right to you?
    I had my 99 200 idle timing set at 4 atdc during break in, I just switched it to 0 and the difference it made in throttle response and how quick it jumped on plane was very noticeable to say the least. It will idle higher when on the hose but that is fine.

    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  7. #37
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    i ran the boat yesterday and after readjusting the TPS, the intake cam and roller a tiny bit (it was off a smidge) and cleaning the spark plugs the boat is running a lot better. holeshot def improved. midrange is much stronger and its not stalling on startups as much.over all motor just "sounded" right. powerloading was still lacking but it it didnt stall when i let off now.

    today i did the timing. i had the adjust the pointer a little bit. i did the process twice with the dial indicator to make sure i got it right had to move it about 1/4"+or-

    with the ecu disconnected at the big harness plug and plug wires grounded to block the timing was this:

    base/idle 3deg ATDC (spec 0-9)
    WOT (knock sensor disconnected) 20 deg BTDC (SPEC 16BTDC)

    i left the idle timing alone as its right there. thinking 1 deg isnt gonna make a difference. i adjusted the WOT to 16BTDC im going to run it again tomorrow or saturday and i will report back more results

    you guys think the 4 deg on the wot timing would make a diff difference?

  8. #38
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    Could if the knock sensor was seeing knock the ecu ccould be rettarding the timing under load..

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  9. #39
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    the couple extra degrees could cause enough knock i guess?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by njfishinguy View Post
    the couple extra degrees could cause enough knock i guess?
    Yes I think so. On these newer engines with computers they kinda walk the line between what's safe - what's efficient - and what's the most power.
    1 degree doesn't sound like much when you think of 365 degrees total in a circle but since detonation occurs way before you can hear it, especially in a boat where you have wind noise along with the noises of other people and boats combined with your engine, the knock sensor picks that early warning up and will retard the timing as much as it can to get rid of the detonation.

    Just my understanding and 2¢

    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

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