Eliminator stringer issue????

[LarsonWildfire]

Hey guys I recently picked up an 85 eliminator sprint 19'..with full stringers. I knew the right stringer (standing at the back looking forward) was slightly soft but figured I could get a cpl seasons out of it before replacing. problem I'm running into is I have a full roller 496 stroker in it pushing 650 hp and 500+ Ft lbs torque (dyno sheets too prove it) well the stringers were both solid could not move them at all, then after my first run of this year, I pulled it out and checked both stringers. Now I'm able to shift the right stringer slightly back and forth just back by the engine solid up front still. I know the right thing to do is tear my engine out gut the interior and replace, but I would love to get just at least one season out if it. Have any of you maybe glassed in a cpl 1/4 stringers or strapped the current stringers solid somwhow? Any tips or ideas would be extremely helpful.

Thanks, mike

[Da Bull]

Anything other than a full replacement would be a patch. However some patch work if done right can last. If you sand both the stringer and floor on both sides then laminate a length of plywood, hardwood or composite it may hold up for a while. Down side other than looks is that after all the hard work you put into it you will figure out that you could have done a complete replacement just as easy and maybe avoid a major catastrophy. Big blocks are heavy.

DB

[doubleeagle]

Don't F around replace do not run boat again before replacing. If you can move it your motor is really moving it. There is no patching.(period) The stringers are the backbone of the boat with out them there is no way to control torque twist. You will not like it much when your motor is flopping around in the back of the boat.

[phillnjack]

that big power plant is not going to just sit and behave like normal with a load of crap trying to hold it down.
total crazy to even think about not doing it right.
ok so you will have no boat for a few days, its not rocket science to rebuild it.
get your arse in gear and get the wood and glass ready and its a 4 day job to make it right.(a week if your real lazy).
1 day to get everything out, and 1 day to clean up and put the new stringers in. and another 2 days to get all the interior back in and t
he engine set up.
so whats the point of spending 3 days trying to bodge it and knowing its definitely not 100% safe.
like said above DO NOT RUN IT AGAIN UNTILL FIXED PROPERLY, its a death trap like it is and who knows maybe youl kill a family member or close friend when the engine jumps out and smacks into them.

hope you fix this up nice

phill

[tunnelfun]

It would be a lot of work to fix the damage done to the hull after you use bolts through the bottom with angle aluminum and or 5200 or some other method not consistent with boat construction.Remember the hull and stringers were laid as one piece.The stringers were not added after the bottom cured.Since polyester resin is not a glue you will need EPOXY resin.Plan the job,get all your stuff together and start saturday morning.By sunday night you will be able to see the nightmare will soon be over.The key is to be clean.Goodluck

[pogalz123]

Best you just get it replaced

[sleekcrafter]

You did not say if you have full stringer or quarter strings? Also engine mount type also comes into play. Quarter stringers are done to keep production cheap, and are ok with stock HP. The three point motor mount system, also was employed to keep costs down, they too are for stock HP. The full length stringer was for the performance boats, using stock or high performance power. The rail system was used on the performance boats, and is motor capable of supporting the engine, as well as the transferring the the power to the hull. The rail system tends to keep the hull/stringer from twisting, as well as reducing the stress points on the hull.