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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Used the coosa board and 1/2'' HS-80 on my V-King. Been going strong 4-5 yrs. now. No problems. IMO the best combo for a strong, light wt job. Used the vinylester resin and 1708 glass. I set the core on some wet 1.5 oz matt. Putty may work better, I just don't like it.. My 3" coosa transom is overkill, but I will never have to look at a cracked trans no matter how hard I use the boat. OS ginger has posted some info on a less expensive, but still good core board, you might save some green using it over coosa. Thank god for the cool temps finally. Those photos makes me itch just looking at them. Jig the running surface up good before core and glass.
    Where did you get your h80 and coosa?
    I was looking at the one piece 1.5" coosa for the transom with some braces and 3/8 h80 for the core. just up in the air on the beading for the core. I am going to try vacuum infusion for the core. with one layer of biaxe on top.
    have to come up with a plan for the stringer and floor also. want a floor with pool noodles under it for flotation. No box up front or on the sides.
    Have lots of decisions to make can use all the input I can to make a plan for it. starting with a blank shell and want to do the best for it.
    what is this other board that you are talking about? will need a cheaper solution for the floor.
    Need all the input I can get on how to build it all up.
    Last edited by dwilfong; 10-05-2014 at 05:06 PM.

  2. #32
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    Got my stuff from merrit supply in merrit isl fl. Composites one in fl is good too. I used the 3/4''hi density coosa for trans and knees. 1/2'' low density for floor and dash. My stringer is the glass box type. 3/4' hi dens would be good for stringers if you are making them yourself. I would skip the pool noodles, they will deteriorate over time and not be of any benefit. Use some good closed cell styrofoam glued down with some 5200 adhesive caulk.

  3. #33
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    So you used a preformed glass box for the stringer?

  4. #34
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    It was the factory stringer and it works well. so I re-used it. Would be easy to make one tho.

  5. #35
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    If you look at the pick of my boat there is a box stringer in it now is that original?

  6. #36
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    Looks like the one in my boat. Remove it w/o making it any shorter. Grind and re use if you want. I like the flat top that supports the floor and that wide top surface will bond the floor pc and the hull together. Since you removed the foam boxes, I would add some short stringers where the foam boxes were.

  7. #37
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    I was wondering if the side boxes added support. I am going to run the core all the way to the sides and cover the whole bottom.
    Yes reusing the old stringer would save time and money and it is already contoured for the floor. Have to pull it to get to the core in the keel pad. will see how it looks when I get it out and cleaned up.

  8. #38
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    One more day in the suit!!!
    All the wood is out gust needs a little more grinding.
    The end is near!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    It will be like a virgin tomorrow.

    Time for a cocktail and a T-bone.

  9. #39
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    Well I'm done for to day. Still need one more weekend to do the final touch up grinding.
    Now time to make decisions on how to build it out and what to use.
    After grinding out all the stinky old rotten wood. I am sure NONE will go back in.
    I could use some input on how to attack the foam core build up.
    There is a Supply house close so I will get every thing here http://merrittsupply.com/default.aspx
    The Corecell M80 1/2" looks good. Now what is the best way to install it?
    Beading compound?
    do you need a layer of biax down first before you bead it or just work of the original skin?
    I am planing on using Epoxy resin so will the poly based beading compound work with a Epoxy lay up down first?
    Also the beading compound needs the M80 core needs to be wet down.
    Will I need to use poly resin to do this with the poly based beading compound?
    Is there a better way to bead the M80 core?
    Will have more question as I go and could use some input on what is what.

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  11. #40
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ID:	308971Well finished the grinding today.
    Nothing but a egg shell now. Time to clean the garage and put it in side for the lay up.

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  13. #41
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    Looks great!
    81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
    before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3


  14. #42
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    Thanks!
    Lots of grinding and every time I think I am done I see more needed.
    I think I will spend one more weekend on it with the 7" grinder and 24 grit.
    You learn a lot when grinding on a hull about how it was made.
    The original core was not bonded very good at all. bet that only 20% was bonded.
    Also lots of resin puddles!
    It looks like every thing was chopped in the mold and set at the same time.
    The surface is very uneven. Will need some straitening so as not to have to much build up when setting the new core.
    Filler and resin have no strength!
    Will core with 1/2" Core-cell M-80.
    Will use Epoxy for all the layup and set the core with epoxy and Cabosil mix on top of DB1700.
    Transom will be Coosa 26# 1 1/2"
    Stringers will be 3/4 Coosa 26#
    The rest will be Coosa 15# 1/2".
    Every thing will be laid up with the DB1700 and epoxy.
    Looks like about $1800 of materials to do the job.
    Have not gone this far not to do it Justus.
    Last edited by dwilfong; 11-02-2014 at 04:47 PM.

  15. #43
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    looks killer, nice job cleaning it out. and sounds like you are going to build a sweet boat

  16. #44
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    The grinding on the bottom half is done thank GOD!!!!
    Cleaned the garage and made room for the lay up.
    Spent $200 on the first piece of Coosa 1 1/2" 26# for the transom.
    Will pick up the M80 Corecell , Epoxy , Cabosil and DB1700 next week to start the core work.Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #45
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ID:	309880The first piece of the puzzle fall in to place.

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