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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Foley View Post
    Wow Dave , you have been busy !!!
    YA you know me got to have some thing to do.
    Toy boats are all going BY BY but one.
    Heck wait till I start the Merck v6 build for it !!!!!!!!

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadkill636 View Post
    Mine had core under the stringers.
    looking at the pic of the rear of your boat I see that the drain plug is about 1/2" - 1" off the very bottom of the hull. So my guess is that I DOES have balsa under that box stringer thing.


    Run outside with a flatscrewdriver and poke and push it thru the fiberglass just in front of the drain tube and I bet it will go thru the balsa core and stop 1/2" onto the hull.
    I'll do some poking around and see what is what.

  3. #18
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    Yes, there is core under there. You're doing great but you must get some better support under the hull right now.


  4. #19
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    making fast work!!

    the side boxes are not needed......have fun getting the foam out of em (and they do have core under em).. there also is core under that "box stringer"

    if you can find one of those grinding disc (metal ones with diamond grit) it makes life alot easier. i got one from the guys at express composites.

    having the top off will make life alot easier too!!

    make sure you support the hull good and straight before you put any core back in.

    here's a few pics from my vector resto

    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ed!&highlight=
    81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
    before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3


  5. #20
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    How much suport is neede on the hull?

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwilfong View Post
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    How much suport is neede on the hull?
    if it was me.......id support it between each strake (so 3 boards on each side...minimum)

    when you get all the core out youll see how much the hull flexs
    81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
    before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3


  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasvector View Post
    if it was me.......id support it between each strake (so 3 boards on each side...minimum)

    when you get all the core out youll see how much the hull flexs
    Ya its like a bird flying right now.
    I will put some more board under it next weekend before I go any further.
    The center tube is keeping it all good for now.
    It has bin on the trailer for 20 years with no core left so it is what it is.
    Looks like it was a good trailer set only one roller on the front and the nose in the V block up front.

  8. #23
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    OK I am taking a break to do some other things and have scraped up some cash.
    Looking for some input on what to use for the hull core?
    Also what to make the stringer out of and the transom?

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwilfong View Post
    OK I am taking a break to do some other things and have scraped up some cash.
    Looking for some input on what to use for the hull core?
    Also what to make the stringer out of and the transom?
    Balsa core is what it had. As far as I have read, it is good for much more time than the factory made it last. they did a poor job with wetting the fiberglass from the factory. chet olson did a Viking not too long ago with 3/8 inch balsa core in his drag boat, blew over at 100+ and nothing in the cored hull broke.. only everything else! http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ght=chet+viper
    check that link, its his resto thread, and pic after the blowover.

  10. #25
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    I noticed there was no core put back in the front of the boat. also there was no air box build up in the front. looks like the nose broke and it pealed the top off.
    So it was cored with 3/8 balsa. That kooks like it held up nice. also did not see any floor in the boat.
    I want to redo the front box and core with a bulkhead that the center stringers will tie into.
    Nice photo to show the weak spots in the boat.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwilfong View Post
    I noticed there was no core put back in the front of the boat. also there was no air box build up in the front. looks like the nose broke and it pealed the top off.
    So it was cored with 3/8 balsa. That kooks like it held up nice. also did not see any floor in the boat.
    I want to redo the front box and core with a bulkhead that the center stringers will tie into.
    Nice photo to show the weak spots in the boat.
    If I remember right, it was a stringer hull, and a beautiful custom upper half that he made himself in his garage. It was killer looking, light weight ,and it was fast. but it was short lived. if you check on hydrostreamforums he has a thread that is very detailed. worth looking at for ideas. it is called "not your average recore" http://www.hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=911 good read when you get time
    Last edited by aaron78viper; 05-20-2014 at 12:25 PM. Reason: spelling

  12. #27
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    What about Divinycell with a bedding compound?
    Any info on this kind of a re-core?

  13. #28
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    Well got back to it this weekend after a 3 week hiatus racing R/C boats.
    Have it shored up with the top back on. used machine screws to go in place of the rivets to line up the top.
    Will pull out the screws and see how it sits next weekend. May do some more bracing after I see how the outer rim sits as to the top.
    Next will be the fun part grinding and grinding some more.
    Have done some checking and talking with some people and will go with a 3/8" H80 core.
    Going to do a vacuum infusion so I can pull it all in one shot with out any mess.
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  14. #29
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ID:	307296Well the cool weather is back in FL.
    Round one with the grinder about 4 hours today. One more weekend of grinding and it will be all a bad memory. LOL
    Got a new Ridged 7" grinder and disk adapter. 36 grit works the best no gouging and quick cutting.
    Transom and keel clean up next.
    Will be nothing but a shell when done with it.
    Like a virgin waiting to be cored out and laid up.
    If the funds hold out Coosa and H80 are on the menu.

  15. #30
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    Used the coosa board and 1/2'' HS-80 on my V-King. Been going strong 4-5 yrs. now. No problems. IMO the best combo for a strong, light wt job. Used the vinylester resin and 1708 glass. I set the core on some wet 1.5 oz matt. Putty may work better, I just don't like it.. My 3" coosa transom is overkill, but I will never have to look at a cracked trans no matter how hard I use the boat. OS ginger has posted some info on a less expensive, but still good core board, you might save some green using it over coosa. Thank god for the cool temps finally. Those photos makes me itch just looking at them. Jig the running surface up good before core and glass.

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