2.4 bridgeport rebuild advice

[TEXAS20225]

James Perry's machine work is beyond comparison to some machineshop work ive been victim of, i used Jim ruck before he retired for years he was good but im thinking James will surpass his expertise when the game is all over (nobody on the earth i know of is better then james on port work

[tlwjkw]

Hey Bobby. That problem ya told me about. Some of tha BIG boys say improper hone set up/use, heat during tha process can cause it. See it a lot on tha Brads and KB's. Usually from over zealous/uninformed machinist they say............

[1FASTLASER]

James Perry's machine work is beyond comparison to some machineshop work ive been victim of, i used Jim ruck before he retired for years he was good but im thinking James will surpass his expertise when the game is all over (nobody on the earth i know of is better then james on port work

So Texas u saying he b da man to talk to out porting my little ole motor huh?

[Onetime]

Very nice work on the tubing. In the early 90's had cast aluminum pieces to weld and epoxy on the block to open up like behind the liner. Then put new sleeves in to create behind the liner for boost and finger ports. Lots of work.
Once the 2.5's came out there was no need as it came that way from Mercury.
For your boat I agree with what others have said. Your better off getting a 2.5 block and going from there. Will carry weight much better.

[TEXAS20225]

he is very good at this my promax was so good i hated to build it i set er in the living room with a piece of plexaglass on it till mama set me straight plus his boring is excellent he has developed some tools that make a builder like myself look good i do not know how many blocks he has done for me nor do i know how many Ruck did i used them both at the same time when i was a little younger not a single motor from him has popped in all that he did for me

[CNC_Guy]

Thanks for the pics James. Always appreciate when someone takes the time to educate.
Dave

[wrechin2]

Here is what I like to do to 2.4 fat blocks...a lot easier than the tubes

[Onetime]

Do you cut to pick up the other finger port?

[wrechin2]

only cut the two. Would have the modify the piston to make all 3 behind the liner. the two get plenty from the rod slot windows.

[Onetime]

Doesn't it have an adverse affect on your loop scavenging(jante) pattern? Once you're going as far as you are how much more would it be to make the sleeve and piston like a 2.5.
I've never done these blocks so bear with me. Is there enough meat in the block casting to mimic a 2.5?

[BoomerMuskoka]

Doesn't it have an adverse affect on your loop scavenging(jante) pattern? Once you're going as far as you are how much more would it be to make the sleeve and piston like a 2.5.
I've never done these blocks so bear with me. Is there enough meat in the block casting to mimic a 2.5?

just throwing this out there but if you or i were going to all that trouble making sleeves etc.. wouldn't it be far cheaper to find a 2.5l that already has behind the liner porting? i do have a couple fat block i wanted to try this with im almost ready to start pulling sleeves.

[wrechin2]

Doesn't it have an adverse affect on your loop scavenging(jante) pattern? Once you're going as far as you are how much more would it be to make the sleeve and piston like a 2.5.
I've never done these blocks so bear with me. Is there enough meat in the block casting to mimic a 2.5?

You could actually cut all three paths and install 2.5 sleeves. With the way I cut them there is no mod needed to the piston or sleeve. After I get the sleeves pulled I can set the block up and cut all the passages in around 2 hours. If you look at how the intake charge collides in the middle of cylinder, I don't feel there really isn't a huge effect having 2 heavy flowing ports collide with the transfer port charges. I have 2 of these running and they are VERY strong.

[wrechin2]

just throwing this out there but if you or i were going to all that trouble making sleeves etc.. wouldn't it be far cheaper to find a 2.5l that already has behind the liner porting? i do have a couple fat block i wanted to try this with im almost ready to start pulling sleeves.

The way I have done it uses the original sleeves with no mods. If you wanted all three you would just have to notch the original sleeve at the bottom to have the behind the liner passages on all three once the last finger port passage was dropped to the bottom of the liner and a small notch in the piston. You would still have the piston ports aiding in more transfer of fuel. The behind the liner ports would aid in higher RPMS so that it would not have to fight the moving piston. I thought about getting 6 blank sleeves and cutting the ports in them just like 2.5 and cutting the pistons but this way works well and all it takes is a little time to make a huge improvement and it may move more fuel with both the BHL and piston port style engine. I would not go looking for a fat block to do this but they are different and again they are VERY strong. I have one more I am doing when I get time for someone to do some testing with when I get time. Just my experiences and thoughts.....

[Onetime]

I see what you are saying. Kind of middle of the road without spending alot of money.
Very nice work.
When you re-use the stock sleeves and are you able to keep them true and to size? How are you removing the sleeves? Heat and drop or pull?

[wrechin2]

I see what you are saying. Kind of middle of the road without spending alot of money.
Very nice work.
When you re-use the stock sleeves and are you able to keep them true and to size? How are you removing the sleeves? Heat and drop or pull?

I put in an oven I have in my shop. When I pull them I engrave the cylinder number on them and reinstall in the same hole. I will leave the sleeves and block in the oven to cool slowly as not to distort. I bore and deck them when I am done as I am building them for people and giving a warranty on them.