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  1. #1
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    To cone or not to cone...

    I am getting closer to firing up the monster attached to the transom of my boat. I am about to begin assembly of my lower unit and was told that the stock lower would limit me to about 80mph or thereabouts before I had to go to a sportmaster. What I am wondering is if I should put a nosecone on it with lower water pickup or save that money and just use it towards purchasing a performance lower like the sportmaster or whatever else fits my application.

    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  2. #2
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    cone it!!!!!!!!! forget the sporty i got my tricked out Promax block from james last week it is killer

  3. #3
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    i hate to build it its so purty i got a piece of plex on it now setting in the living room for a center piece

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    cone it!!!!!!!!! forget the sporty i got my tricked out Promax block from james last week it is killer
    Thanks buddy, I know he does some awesome work doesn't he? I can't wait to fire this one up and hear some music. If you're that sure about coning then I might order mine tomorrow. Are there any other brands or options other than Bobs? Anyone better, worse....I have only heard of those and haven't done much research on them as the lower was a long way down the list of things I needed done ASAP.


    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  5. #5
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    i never had bobs cone one for me but ive wound up with some of his work they are good!! ive coned my own for around 15 years or so i used to do it for other people but its too much work for too little money just be sure who does it welds it on they seem to crack less and stay on better

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    i never had bobs cone one for me but ive wound up with some of his work they are good!! ive coned my own for around 15 years or so i used to do it for other people but its too much work for too little money just be sure who does it welds it on they seem to crack less and stay on better
    I will most likely do it myself here at the shop. We have a mig with a spool gun and if that wont do it I have a close friend that is a magician with a tig. Surely it can be stitched on and then filled or does it need to be welded around the entire perimeter?

    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  7. #7
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    I welded mine on full perimeter. Spool gun with 4043 wire works well for the Mercury castings. You can put your hand on the weld immediately after welding. Don't use 5xxx series wire or try to TIG weld it as the parent metal gets too hot and could warp the casting. 5356 looks good on paper as the tensile strength is higher with similar melt points but you don't need the tensile strength for that application and the 4043 really does lay down and fuse better with the parent metal in the lower. Alternate inch long beads and it won't get hot enough to even need to disassemble it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wired247 View Post
    I welded mine on full perimeter. Spool gun with 4043 wire works well for the Mercury castings. You can put your hand on the weld immediately after welding. Don't use 5xxx series wire or try to TIG weld it as the parent metal gets too hot and could warp the casting. 5356 looks good on paper as the tensile strength is higher with similar melt points but you don't need the tensile strength for that application and the 4043 really does lay down and fuse better with the parent metal in the lower. Alternate inch long beads and it won't get hot enough to even need to disassemble it.

    Thank you sir, that is what I was after. But...but where did your sig go?!?!

    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  9. #9
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    Hah. I uncheck the sig box sometimes. Takes up a lot of space

  10. #10
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    i weld all around the round portion of the barrel, all across the top and down 3' on each side the gap is too wide to weld up for my liking ( a lot of dissimilar deposit on this area of the case), there have been a couple occasions in the last 15 years where where the cone casting has sprung a small leak and water gets between the case and the cone causing freeze break issues. i have adopted this process after ive welded all that i weld, i position the case in a vise where the two slits that i left unwelded are horizontal i then mix up some epoxy and pour this area full to over flowing that void is now solid so if any thing goes south there is no void to fill up with any foreign stuff. i also take a small piece of alum tube and weld it on around the drain plug to keep water from soaking up in the filler. then i weld ac copper in the cone and case ( its bigger then 1/2 standard plumbing stuff ) and cover the water line (no hose shows)then a tab and wala nice looking case i been using torqmasters on my own stuff i have 4 now two unconed one never been into

  11. #11
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    Ok I got my nose cone in and am studying my lower real well while it is off and completely disassembled. Does anyone who has done this have an exact measurement from the top edge of the case down to where I need to drill my first hole? I have the weirdest desire to drill right the first time and I can't for the life of me explain why I am overcome with this strange feeling.
    Seriously I can see about where the hole should be but it appears that I might have to grind my anti-cavitation plate to get the hole drilled in the proper location.

    Texas, I'd love to see a pic of your hidden water line, sounds really sleek and aesthetically pleasing but doubt that I will endure the extra work...I just want mine in the correct place with no leaks..lol

    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  12. #12
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    I have measured and checked and counted my fingers and toes and carried the naughts and aughts and I am coming up with right at 1 5/16" down from the top of the unit to the center of the hole...but I am short 5 toes so I may be off on my naughts..LOL


    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  13. #13
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    you will have to cut the cav plate ill check in the morning, ill also take a pix of the inclosed tube send me a phone number or a email( im thinks its 1 7/16) but i get amnesia easy these days. i have two cases on hand that are enclosed one is torqmaster other is stock case that everyone calls 200 case they are all 200 or 150 or 135 or all that changes is guts. when setting my cone i have a 24' framing square that ive built a center of propshaft pointer on when its laid on the mating surface of the empty then simply turn it around to the nose end of it then tack the cone on using the same center of prop shaft indicator it so simple it hurts side to side is even more simple good luck

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    you will have to cut the cav plate ill check in the morning, ill also take a pix of the inclosed tube send me a phone number or a email( im thinks its 1 7/16) but i get amnesia easy these days. i have two cases on hand that are enclosed one is torqmaster other is stock case that everyone calls 200 case they are all 200 or 150 or 135 or all that changes is guts. when setting my cone i have a 24' framing square that ive built a center of propshaft pointer on when its laid on the mating surface of the empty then simply turn it around to the nose end of it then tack the cone on using the same center of prop shaft indicator it so simple it hurts side to side is even more simple good luck

    Thanks bud, I came up with a minimum of 1 5/16" from top of mating surface to center of hole, so 1 7/16" would be a little more forgiving on location. Once I get the holes drilled should I just fill the lower area with epoxy up to bottom of the fittings so nothing freezes in there? I love the level with pointer to center of propshaft. I am totally stealing that idea and telling everyone I came up with it so don't rat me out and I buy you a frosty beverage!


    Slimm
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

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