User Tag List

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 41
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    41
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    4
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Motv18 View Post
    If the step is aluminum I would say the angles are not sharp enough to shed water. Happens a lot to glass mishandled by a stacked storage facility dulling a part of one of the strake steps. Tin just is never sharp enough out of the box sometimes.

    Oddball stuff: your catching Air and flopping up and down. Is it worse with a headwind?
    your pulling angle on the step and just not enough hull in the water to hold it up.

    Kinda guessing fastest we have here runs 50 55 fine not a playcraft.
    I think that air bleeding is my problem. It compresses at speed and has no where to go but out the back. Because of the engine being heavy and setback the air escape route is very limited. I have tried a 4-blade to give me more stern lift, but it only helps just so much and the porpoising continues.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    41
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    4
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Demeanor View Post
    Seems most boats are rigged at the factory with the motor too low which also causes a porpoise. First thing I would do is play with engine height.
    I went up 3 holes and still the porpoise continues.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    206
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I forgot to ask how fast the oscillation was. Also might try Bimini up vs down. I would hope it was as simple as more cup in the prop to hold the bite. Another one is are the strands full length or stop before the stern it possible if their short your losing their lift once their out, and bouncing from the transition. Slow oscillation would be the air fast this other stuff.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    severn bridge
    Posts
    1,348
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    13
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would try a few different props and if no better running attitude is attainable I would consider adding a ballast tank in the bow that you can fine tune with pumps, similar to a wakeboat setup!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    41
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    4
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Motv18 View Post
    I forgot to ask how fast the oscillation was. Also might try Bimini up vs down. I would hope it was as simple as more cup in the prop to hold the bite. Another one is are the strands full length or stop before the stern it possible if their short your losing their lift once their out, and bouncing from the transition. Slow oscillation would be the air fast this other stuff.
    When the weather gets warmer I will get you a video showing the oscillation. What I remember for now is - a normal up/down cadence that you would expect ... except it gets more and more radical in about 20 seconds.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    41
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    4
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by donmac View Post
    I would try a few different props and if no better running attitude is attainable I would consider adding a ballast tank in the bow that you can fine tune with pumps, similar to a wakeboat setup!
    That's a cool idea. Where do I get one of these setups?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Tourist Trap, Florida
    Posts
    6,691
    Thanks (Given)
    61
    Thanks (Received)
    193
    Likes (Given)
    685
    Likes (Received)
    1252
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    More negative trim using alum motor wedges should fix it. Neg. trim would lift the stern and push the bow dn

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    41
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    3
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    4
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    More negative trim using alum motor wedges should fix it. Neg. trim would lift the stern and push the bow dn
    Can you post some pics of these wedges please?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    severn bridge
    Posts
    1,348
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    13
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    More negative trim using alum motor wedges should fix it. Neg. trim would lift the stern and push the bow dn
    I was thinking it ran ok tucked, just porpoised when trying to air it out!

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    severn bridge
    Posts
    1,348
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    13
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    first of all, I'd like to comment on the post of finding a prop that will carry the bow! there were many cats or tunnels built that never solved this issue!

    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre Man View Post
    That's a cool idea. Where do I get one of these setups?
    It would be a combination of sandbagging the bow with different weight and loads in the boat to figure out how much weight is needed and best location while trying different props. finding possible locations for a tank,tanks or water bags!if you don't do this kind of work yourself, I'd be finding the local custom boat shop and letting them put there brains on the idea!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    206
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sounds mechanical then. The only real answer I have is going back down 1/4 by 1/4 till it goes away. Non pad hulls tend to have a max bow angle. Once past the current fulcrum stability goes out the door and porpoising happens. So prop and weight distribution. Choosing more in the stern or bow is trial and err.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Volusia, Florida
    Posts
    203
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    2
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    After many 300hp Verados on Playcraft Xtremes I can tell you that the porpoising issue can be controlled with trim. The best I've seen out of these boats was 53mph.- not bad for a 27' 6" pontoon. Tempest props have been the fastest setup but they seem to lead to porpoising much quicker than the Mirage props.

    Phil has a new design step hull 2700 Xtreme, it was produced for Midwest Boats and developed at their request-I know of maybe three to five produced nationally.

    We have a new model Playcraft Daytona 21' hull -standard Playcraft tritoon. It's powered by a 225hp Mercury Optimax ProXS, Bob's Jackplate. After running many props this past week we ran over 58mph with the Tempest 21" and over 54mph with a 19" Mirage. The Mirage was a way better all around prop but the top end wasn't close. Nor was as trim sensitive as with the Tempest.

    Phil-did you try a Mirage yet?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	d15.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	59.0 KB 
ID:	292692   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	017.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	451.6 KB 
ID:	292693   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	001.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	440.4 KB 
ID:	292694  


    Performance Pontoon & Deckboats LLC
    Tritoon Performance Specialists
    Volusia, Florida


    Phone 386-490-3666


    fasttoons@gmail.com


    www.fasttoons.com

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Volusia, Florida
    Posts
    203
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    2
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    BTW - the step hull was originally produced for Midwest Boats at their request. I was told that Terry at Midwest went through over 25 different set ups to arrive at the set up he has. It had to take many hours, first to convince Playcraft to build the hull for him and then to do the setup work. Playcraft is a custom builder building what the customer wants.The dealer that Phil bought from gave him a lower price for the boat and had zero set up time on the hull.
    Why would Terry, after spending all those hours developing the hull and setup return Phil's calls?
    BTW- Terry won the first closed course sanctioned pontoon race with the set up at the LOTO races last June.


    Performance Pontoon & Deckboats LLC
    Tritoon Performance Specialists
    Volusia, Florida


    Phone 386-490-3666


    fasttoons@gmail.com


    www.fasttoons.com

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    severn bridge
    Posts
    1,348
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    13
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have always felt that setback and porpoising are closely related! I would be curious how much speed is lost and how the drivability improves with reduced setback! I would happily lose a couple mph for a hull that doesn't porpoise!

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Quitman, TEXAS
    Posts
    773
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    2
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    5
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    jmho.

    that 19p tempest (STOCK) will never work on that rig. the higher ya go with a prop that has tips that lay back will make it worse.

    try a mirage with good cupping and wrap it around the tips. or better yet.. get that tempest worked on. straighten out the tips and work the cupping.
    you'll be amazed at the difference.

    and btw.. sending that prop to mercury to make it labbed won't fix your problem either. they will thin the prop down and not work the blades for your rig. that's been my experiences over the last 21 years.

    just my opinion.
    98 XR2001 Drag w/pro stock mota

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •