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  1. #121
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    Use acid for the aluminum and get a lisle style rigid hone on ebay for around $100.00
    Quartershot T-3R 15" E-Tec 1.62 sportmaster


  2. #122
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    What grit do you finish with on a rigid?

  3. #123
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    I think mine are 180 and Finish with the ball then brush/soft hone
    Quartershot T-3R 15" E-Tec 1.62 sportmaster


  4. #124
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    Sequence.........

    1 Ball
    2 Rigid
    3 Brush
    Last edited by 6Killer; 12-12-2013 at 10:23 AM.

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  6. #125
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    I agree with 6Killer on order, you need the rigid right before a brush to get proper cross hatch

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  8. #126
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    looks like I need to buy a finishing brush
    Last edited by powerabout; 12-12-2013 at 02:25 PM.

  9. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    looks like I need to buy a finishing brush
    +1, what does it take to bore a 2.7l to 3.0l? Seems to be some mixed oppinions.

  10. #128
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    Started to "clean up the rodslots" today.. Do you guys recommend anything else besides the grinding I've aleady done, shown in the picture? (Dont dare to grind deeper due to thin material.
    Do I have anything to gain by grinding a shallow slot towards the boostport, shown in picture?Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #129
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    To the top...Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Captain75; 12-16-2013 at 04:46 PM.

  12. #130
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    Captain75 By cleaning up the rod slots are you smoothing out the rough casting? Keep up the GREAT posting of pics --- Great info. Gary

  13. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by olboatman View Post
    Captain75 By cleaning up the rod slots are you smoothing out the rough casting? Keep up the GREAT posting of pics --- Great info. Gary
    yes I'm trying to remove all the rough casting and sharp bends(shown in the other crankcase picture) I'm still a bit abivalent weather I should feed the boostport directly from the crankcase entrance or not. You could easily improve the flow by removing the lower sharp edge on boostport lower feeding window and thereby allow some of the freshcharge to direct enter the transferduct(the edge I'm pointing at with the file in earlier picture)

  14. #132
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    The bigger "bang for your buck" would be to add finger ports. The 2.7 has plenty of meat for doing that.

  15. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6Killer View Post
    The bigger "bang for your buck" would be to add finger ports. The 2.7 has plenty of meat for doing that.
    Is there an echo in here

    If you do the rod slot like that you better take some time to stuff the crank case. The more you remove the more you need to fill. There is not much meat on the 2.7 in that area (atleast compared to newer blocks) and your not looking to turn it 9k.
    Last edited by baja200merk; 12-17-2013 at 09:58 AM.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" E-Tec 1.62 sportmaster


  16. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by baja200merk View Post
    Is there an echo in here

    If you do the rod slot like that you better take some time to stuff the crank case. The more you remove the more you need to fill. There is not much meat on the 2.7 in that area (atleast compared to newer blocks) and your not looking to turn it 9k.
    My boat is mainly used for skiing and tubing and I don't want to raise the powerband

  17. #135
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    Fingers will add torque across the board.

    If you are not proficient at tuning, all your mods will be a waste......

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