Looper exhaust porting

[Captain75]

great thread keep it up

Thanks Phillnjack!
I'm trying to keep this one alive with more porting pics, but sometimes its hard to get others to chime in with their ideas, opinions and most important pictures...

[phillnjack]

it has been a very good interesting thread, plenty of good things done to improve upon and some great idea's along the way.
I am sure more will chime in when they get a chance. Harvey is probably keeping a few busy at the moment. !!

[Captain75]

Rod slots:

Intake and cages matched, next up another round of sand blasting in order to create the proper surface:

Close up:

[NosBoss]

Looks good! You did a better job matching the cages to the intakes than I did. I may take mine back apart and try to match them better.

[Captain75]

Looks good! You did a better job matching the cages to the intakes than I did. I may take mine back apart and try to match them better.

The final matchporting was done with the cages attached to the mainfold

[NosBoss]

I basically just smoothed all the edges over on mine. I'm thinking I should get a scribe in there to mark the actual placement of the cages, then I can remove them and take more material away so it matches. Every little bit helps.

[Captain75]

I basically just smoothed all the edges over on mine. I'm thinking I should get a scribe in there to mark the actual placement of the cages, then I can remove them and take more material away so it matches. Every little bit helps.

I grind the gasket edges aswell when assembled

[NosBoss]

That's one way to do it! You'd get a much better match that way.

[Captain75]

I have realized that I have a hard time moving on with this closed deck build before the cooling questions are answered. This topic was recently discussed in another thread that unfortunately turned a bit infected. Therefore I post some of the same pics in this thread to hopefully get the discussion going again. I think the pictures show some of the steps involved when modifying the cooling system, but apparently not all.
My powerhead will be attached to a 2.7 adapter, and the cooling system from a 2.7 or the stock closed deck stuff, I haven't been able to decide due to lack of knowledge. The reason for using the 2.7 adapter is because I will use the old style cowling and mid. Either way, the build will include the use of the 2.7 heads.

Cooling mod pics:







Picture (below)from under the PH. Are these the holes that should be plugged in order to fill the deck from the top first with the help of the holes drilled in the pics above?



2.7 adapter on left, closed deck adaptet on right.

Cooling water exit on the closed deck adapter, to me it looks almost like a drystack mod with the small hole to dump water down the mid.

Question remains: can I run a complete 2.7 cooling system(stats, direction valve) on a 2.7 adapter or should I move the t-stat sleeves from the closed deck heads to the 2.7 heads and run the closed deck blow off valve system? If I run the later, how can I create a pisser function?
Either way, should/can the cooling mod be used?

[racer]

Yes on holes in bottom, should have one about 3/8 that gets plugged and a second about 3/32 stays open to make sure block does not stay full of water when sitting and introduces some cool water into water that has gone down the exhaust side these are on both sides. The block cooling mod does the most good when engine is over 300hp which looking at your project I doubt it will be making. Run the 2.7 cooling as thermostat arrangement allows for more water.

[Captain75]

Yes on holes in bottom, should have one about 3/8 that gets plugged and a second about 3/32 stays open to make sure block does not stay full of water when sitting and introduces some cool water into water that has gone down the exhaust side these are on both sides. The block cooling mod does the most good when engine is over 300hp which looking at your project I doubt it will be making. Run the 2.7 cooling as thermostat arrangement allows for more water.

Thank you racer! Another great reply! informative and educational -as always!
//Anders

[Captain75]

Hello guys! Its been a while mainly because of an intense period at work. However the closed deck project is moving forward. I must admit I became a bit scared when I saw the piston ring location pins beeing different depth Because of that I’ve ordered new Wiseco pistons similar to the ones in the picture. Hopefully this will give me some peace of mind...Think I've finally decided to JB Weld the idle reliefs aswell, everything to get as much power as possible!

How do you guys normaly do with new pistons like these? Do enlarge the F/P holes or do you keep them stock?
I finished the honing process with 280 stones, hope that will work with the wisecos!

I ordered some new caged wrist pin bearings aswell, any pros or cons compared to loose needles?


I will update this thread as soon as I’ve started reassembly.

//Anders

[NosBoss]

I'm at the point where I need to address the finger port holes as well. I figured I would open them up to the width of the ports I made. 1/2 inch wide.

[powerabout]

the caged bearings are a bit safer at high revs as the washers used with the crowded rollers are not strong enough
Racer tells me over say 7500 ( I think) for durability dont use crowded.
I did have a chat with a guy that made custom washers for a drag raced engine, had no failures

[Captain75]

I'm at the point where I need to address the finger port holes as well. I figured I would open them up to the width of the ports I made. 1/2 inch wide.

I see your point, thats what I did to the stock pistons. Reason I ask is due to the fact that I dont want to grind NIB stuff, unless I have to...