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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    .150 wider at the top and taper to orginal at the bottom but unless you do the right intake work it will not add any power
    Come on Mr Stoker, give up a little more info.

  2. #17
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    .150 wider on each exhaust port at the top, make sure you radius them when finished. Clean up the rod slot and match the intakes being careful to maintain original angle since you are not looking for a high rpm engine.

  3. #18
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    Just starting a v4 looper for a 15' allison,

    Any thing different on the V4 ?

    Will the V8 Finger ported piston w/ block mods work ok in the V4, or is there a better direction ?
    Last edited by thornl01; 11-26-2013 at 01:02 PM. Reason: spell

  4. #19
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    What needs to be done to the roof angle of the intake ports for higher rpm?
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  5. #20
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    4mm for each window...
    have started matchporting transfer and boostports aswell, pics will be coming soon.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    .150 wider on each exhaust port at the top, make sure you radius them when finished. Clean up the rod slot and match the intakes being careful to maintain original angle since you are not looking for a high rpm engine.
    maintain the transferport angle is the most difficult part, -the alucasting is not nearly in sync with the sleeves, so it needs severe grinding!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    maintain the transferport angle is the most difficult part, -the alucasting is not nearly in sync with the sleeves, so it needs severe grinding!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    With the help of a small mirror, progress is being made, without changing the angles...

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onetime View Post
    .039375 is your friend.
    Just FYI, 0.039375 is incorrect. 0.039370 is correct. Or 0.03937007874015748031496062992126 if you get picky.

    Much easier to work the other way since the inch is exactly 25.4 millimeters which I think is much easier to remember.

  9. #24
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    .03937 is plenty accurate for almost anything done in a machine shop. Especially since there are a couple of zeros after the 7.

    And 25.4 is more than OK, it is the absolute definition of millimeters per inch and provides a perfect conversion.

  10. #25
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    Heres a good conversion spreadsheet I use at work a lot.

    http://www.elivermore.com/bills_conversions.xls

  11. #26
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    39.37 inches per meter was the old accepted standard until the late 1950's. 25.4 mm per inch is the current standard for conversion. In any case there is only .0002% difference between the two standards.

  12. #27
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    Double cut carbide burrs make life much easier.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" E-Tec 1.62 sportmaster


  13. #28
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    You need an angle head to do the roofs of the transfers.

    Higher rpm you the roof angle gets closer to 90 degrees and transfer/boost/finger port heights change a bit

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    .150 wider on each exhaust port at the top, make sure you radius them when finished. Clean up the rod slot and match the intakes being careful to maintain original angle since you are not looking for a high rpm engine.
    Clean up the rod slot...
    on small high revving case-fed motors, I have ported/created a "direct passage" from the crankcase(rodslot)to the transfer boost/aux-port, this procedure has been succesful by allowing the fresh charge to enter direct into the boostport as soon as the piston starts its upgoing movement.
    Do you have any experience of this on outboards? In this case the boost port don't have to rely on the piston-window...
    The yellow tape in the pic is an attempt to describe my ideaClick image for larger version. 

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  15. #30
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    Fingerports or not ?

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