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12-13-2013, 12:02 PM #16Junior Member
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From what i know all cylinders is the same bore, hav'nt opened it up to measure myself but i believe it's stock. Why?
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12-29-2013, 12:38 AM #17
Allaaan, I yanked my advance module today. Mine was 3 wires, pn 93772A3 and held down by 3 bolts. Took all of 5 minutes to remove. On efi motors, there is a jumper that you have to.do but not on the carb motor as best i could determine.
Soooo...i yanked it and headed to the lake. Idled as good as always and ran great!!! Mine had been stuck around 5000 and i am now back up around 6k. Still have to check timing but i was almost out of daylight and jyst chanced it. Ran smooth, no surging, and did not feel like i had a cylinder coming in and out. Hope this helps. Definitely yank this black box on yours, check timing, and see if it helps. Hopefully it will!1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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04-05-2014, 05:33 PM #18Junior Member
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Oh that seems nice, running strong even now some months later?
Mine was pn93772a1. Im gonna yank it off tomorrow. I rebuilt the fuelpump, changed the impellar for now. Gonna do a total linc and sync too and probably throw the old oilpump away.
What should i do with the hole where the oil went in from the oilpump to the fuelpump? Just plug it?
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04-26-2014, 07:22 PM #19Junior Member
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So i have also took all the parts away today and reseted timing and done a linkandsync both the advance module and the warning module is now gone. So is the internal oilpump.
Fired it up on the hose and it seemed to run fine. Probably putting the boat in the water for some more testing next week, i'll update you more after that. But it seemed to run on all cylinders.
I've also rebuilt the fuelpump and replaced the impellar, didnt look too neat.
Just one last question, as of this moment the oilpump is unplugged just by removing the long steel axle which is connected to the fuelpump from the block. Is there any risk unplugging it this way? Or should i buy a blockoffkit? Or is it any other way doing it better?
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04-27-2014, 11:40 PM #20
Get an oil pump block off kit. Makes it clean and is cheap. Good luck with your motor. Mine ran great last weekend.
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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04-28-2014, 08:42 AM #21
Symptoms:
Rough idle
Missing 1/6 of performance
and the clincher.......
Intermittent oil alarm
Check for electrical misfire on #2
hope it helpsTo fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.
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05-08-2014, 04:34 PM #22Junior Member
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Finally got my blockoffkit and its now put on instead of the pump. Shipping isnt too fast from America to Sweden hehe.
Should i just plug the inlet of oil on the fuelpump?
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05-16-2014, 04:12 PM #23Junior Member
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So, put it in the lake today and....
It works like a ****in charm , thanks for all the help. Did spin it almost 6k rpm, 50+ knots. And no more coughing at idle.
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05-16-2014, 10:52 PM #24There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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05-19-2014, 02:00 PM #25
From the way it worked out, I'd have to say that the oil alert module was stealing some of the coil drive it was just supposed to be sampling. That's a new on to me. Worth noting.
That's why I like the forums. When the one with the query comes back with the fix, the community knowledge base is enhanced.To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.
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07-12-2014, 03:13 PM #26Junior Member
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Now im ****ed again. The engine started rattling and sounded like metal against metalish sound that seemed to keep the same pace as the engine.
The sound started out at WOT, did cut off the throttle immediately and when it reached idle it just stopped. It wont turn around on the starter at all, it just clicks.
I had water in the gearcase last season, could a seized gearcase cause this or does anyone here have any ideas of what i could be, bad cylinder, bottom bracket or maybe the crankset??
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07-14-2014, 10:17 AM #27
Pull your spark plugs. They will often tell you a lot. If you don't see anything there, put a wrench on the flywheel nut. Check for movement either direction. Pull drain plug on lower, that will tell you if you lost one or more gears, lots of metal on magnet and in the gear oil.
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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07-14-2014, 03:39 PM #28Junior Member
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07-14-2014, 03:46 PM #29
Oh man, that sucks. It will take some looking into, but it kind of looks like you had water entering that cylinder. Or, it went very lean. If you can get the piston to move, check for any cracks in the sleeve and inspect the head closely. I know it's hard to tell after the fact, but did anything look out of the ordinary on the head gasket?
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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07-14-2014, 10:50 PM #30
That sucks bro...sorry about that...
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!