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  1. #1
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    02' 225 EFI Flooding, hard to start

    So after several months of trying different things and reading and taking the boat in to the shop I've decided to ask on here
    and see if anyone has any idea what's going on with this motor. The problem is that the boat is intermittently very hard to start. Usually in the mornings it cranks right up and when i run out to my first spot, about 40 minute run and fish for a while, it is very difficult to start back up. It is flooding, i can smell it and it has worn my battery down cranking on it so much. If i trim the motor way up to troll shallow water, the motor always has a super hard time cranking and it floods, why this happens i can't figure out since it's fuel injected. Anyway, now the motor is giving me trouble cranking first thing in the morning. If i disconnect the fuel line and crank on it to burn the residual fuel out of the cylinders it fires up, coughs, smokes and i reconnect the fuel line and it straightens up. It bogs down coming out of the hole alot of the time when these issues are occuring. The boat once it gets up and I run it runs fine, top end is fine, throttle response is good when running. If I stop the boat and fish and I crank it every 20 minutes or so it usually fires up pretty easily. The other morning i had a hard time cranking it and a couple of times the fuel pump would continue to try and prime the fuel rail for an excessive amount of time and i had to turn the key off and back on to get it to stop.
    so far i've had the fuel pump checked, compression good all around, VST, fuel samples are fine, the shop said there was intermittent loss of spark on cylinders 2 and six and they cleaned the plug boots and all and the problem resolved. but that's not the problem. because it's still doing the same thing. injectors were balanced and blueprinted last year,chris carson reeds, new spark plugs QL77C like there supposed to have. new cranking battery over 1000 CCA, run stabil in it. non ethanol fuel, all the fuel lines are ethanol resistant. any help would be greatly appreciated!! thanks -Chaise
    Last edited by chaiseb; 09-08-2013 at 11:41 AM.

  2. #2
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    Check fuel pressure at the VST. Then it could be TPS telling the ECU it is WOT when it is only at idle.. Could be a few other things.. I found one today with a loose ground wire to the ECU and it would run fine then drop to very low rpm and then catch back up and do it off and on... just a loose ground...
    20ft Gambler with Merc 260
    Too many projects to liist..

  3. #3
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    If it actually is flooding , then there is a little screen under the fuel pressure reg that gets clogged up.

    Chance's are , it's like every other (lean sneeze) (late model) EFI .. There just aint enough timing to get it started when warm ( like 4* after TDC ) Next time it does this , pull the cowl off and disconnect the air temp sensor in the top corner of the plenum. If it starts up, then the easiest thing to do is close the throttle blade a flat on the allen wrench. It will still idle the same , just makes it eaisier to start when hot.
    Mine likes to do it , after i idle to a waterway restaurant , and am using the motors to turn/ park the boat .. all the while there's a dozen drunks hanging/ falling over the railing yelling floor it dude .. just when I need a little blip from the motor that just died and wont restart ..
    I know it sounds bass-ackwards, but I think we come up with an easy "hot choke" start fix ... I havent tried it yet , so I wont say nuttin about it, till I know it works ..

  4. #4
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    @bob, the VST pressure is good, if i ohm out the TPS to check it, do i need to do it under a load or can i disconnect it?

    @chaz, that does sound very similar to what's going on but the "lean sneezes"? It does cough like that but I smell a ton of fuel, almost no doubt that it's flooded. So is the lean sneeze a
    flooding situation caused by poor timing causing inadequate combustion allowing the cylinders to become rich?

    also, I read on another post on here that if you turn the key to the off position, advance the throttle to WOT and then turn the key on and crank it. this tells the ecu to not fire the injectors in a situation where you suspect flooding. so is this something that would essentially accomplish the same thing as closing the throttle blade?

    Thanks for the help fellas, I certainly appreciate it.

  5. #5
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    Check to see if your small square mech fuel pump has a hole in the diapgram which is dumping fuel into the intake. This will cause the crankng and bogging problems you are describing and will clear up at high RPM where the fuel can be used. It will also not appear when you first crank the engine for the day.

  6. #6
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    thanks go time, i'll check that out

  7. #7
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    just took the boat out to see how it ran today, got to the launch, the boat wouldn't crank whatsoever. loaded it back up. took it home, took off the cowling, disconnected the top plastic cover over the intake and the one on front with the vacuum line hooked up to the fuel pump. hooked up the hose, spun it over for about 6-8 seconds and it fired right up. replaced everything i took off, put the hood back on and it and fired it up again. no problem, it fired up almost instantly. he mechanical fuel pump diaphragm is fine i took it apart to check it.
    ...stumped man, i can't figure this out. there is a lot of what looks like burned fuel residue on the top of the throttle blade. is this normal?

  8. #8
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    Do you pump your primer bulb until it is firm every time you go to start your engine? I know it sounds simple, but you can believe how many don't and can't figure out why their engines won't start.

  9. #9
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    yep, i always do that. So if it cranks up easily on the hose at home but it doesen't want to start when it's in the water. The added resistance and backpressure of it being submerged and the water pump having to suck water versus being forcefed water from the hose, does this help to figure out what may be happening?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaiseb View Post
    yep, i always do that. So if it cranks up easily on the hose at home but it doesen't want to start when it's in the water. The added resistance and backpressure of it being submerged and the water pump having to suck water versus being forcefed water from the hose, does this help to figure out what may be happening?
    Trying to put this together in my head. If your backing the boat down and the exhaust relief hole, next to the garden hose flush, is submerged, that could effect starting I guess. The manual says it will effect the engine's idle if submerged... When I back mine down I keep the motor up a bit so the relief hole is above the waterline. As for a primer bulb, I removed mine 7 years ago and never looked back, I didn't want any restriction in the fuel line.
    Boats love hundred dollar bills.

  11. #11
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    the hole isn't submerged, just that it's more work for the engine when it's not being force fed water

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaiseb View Post
    the hole isn't submerged, just that it's more work for the engine when it's not being force fed water

    So your saying the force of the garden hose pressure is helping to start the motor somehow...???

    I think the Matrix has you...LOL. Just kiddin.
    Boats love hundred dollar bills.

  13. #13
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    haha, not the force helping it but the absence of motor being submerged..anyway, just throwing that out there, don't think that's of any
    importance really.

  14. #14
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    The rate of rotation is determined by the starter and I doubt the waterpump resistance affects it much at all. Could it be Reeds?

  15. #15
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    it very well could be the reeds. I guess the only way to know would be to pull them?

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