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Thread: 2.4l high idle?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1nebel0 View Post
    Dave you nailed it.... I have a Bridgeport carb motor and an EFI motor....you can't rebuilt the carbs or have the injectors cleaned to often...The fuel is taking its toll and better safe that sorry for $150.....I will say I am going broke running the EFI...Fuel mileage is horrible but what can one expect running a motor at 7500-8000....LOL
    You got to pay to play.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    Not trying to be a smart azz, but you spent all that money building the engine. JMO spend a couple bucks and make sure what feeds that new engine is just as new??? With all the Ethanol problems that seem to come up one would think its the way to go.

    Dave
    I put the test prop this morning so I can throtle her up with a load on the trailer.seems to get plenty of fuel at 4g.in gear and at a stand still she still won't rev pass 4g.I even used a spray bottle just to see if it needed more,just seemed To bogged down.ill pull the carbs off and clean them up I got 3new kits in my shop.thanks
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  3. #18
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    I had the same problem with a 2.4, happened all of a sudden, I never did find the problem, but I've always wondered what it was. I thought it might be a sealing ring and pulled it apart, I was hoping that was it...but no! That was after changing all electronics, changed intake and carbs. I'll be watching this closely!!!

  4. #19
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    Carbs rebuilt.stator changed.replaced one pack.replaced wires from coils to packs.noticed gasket behine v-stacks was covering the holes on the top of the carbs for air,removed those.good spark and fuel.re checked engine for air leaks.engine still won't rev pass 4g and sounds like its on a rev limiter.gotta say this is the first time I'm this stumped on tring to get it to run right.any other help or ideas that I can try or look for I could greatly used.I'm open to all ideas.thanks guys.

    Edd
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16ft superboat View Post
    Carbs rebuilt.stator changed.replaced one pack.replaced wires from coils to packs.noticed gasket behine v-stacks was covering the holes on the top of the carbs for air,removed those.good spark and fuel.re checked engine for air leaks.engine still won't rev pass 4g and sounds like its on a rev limiter.gotta say this is the first time I'm this stumped on tring to get it to run right.any other help or ideas that I can try or look for I could greatly used.I'm open to all ideas.thanks guys.

    Edd
    Always replace switch box's in pairs.!!!


    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    Always replace switch box's in pairs.!!!Dave
    I was up all night tring to figure it out.one thing I didn't try was removing the small jumper wire that connects both packs together.engine idle fine and rev right up to 6000rpm.I replaced both packs ooff of another engine I had in the yard..thanks for your help dave and the rest of you s&f guysB-)
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  7. #22
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    FWIW, in a perfect world.... at "idle" all the carbs would be/should be "closed". AND, the timing of the ignition is going to determine idle speed. ie: advance timing would raise the rpms and retarding timing is going to reduce timing. All with-out the carb butterflys coming into play...because you adjusted them closed!! Well, are they???? The center carb roller should not be touching the cam and if you loosen the top and bottom carb vertical link screws, leave them loose, run the engine, and perhaps giving each carb linkage a "blip" to get the springs to bounce each butterflys back to a full closed position. Now you know they are closed as each carbs spring tension is keeping them closed and not a miss-adjusted linkage you "thought" was correct!!!!. And, as you run it on the flusher or @ the dock, you can tighten the top screw, check to make sure the idle speed remains the same, do the bottom screw and monitor the speed. Now you know the carbs are closed, because you check'd them not just visually (and often quickly) but by monitoring the idle speed in "real world" conditions. My point is that you may have thought you got it right by loosening and tightening the carb linkage staticly but I just don't trust myself to always be 100% accurate. And sometimes cranking down on the phillips screws actually may bump the linkage to be "out of spec" . So, if in doubt, loosen all the carb screws and leave them be loose and run the motor, then tighten..then you know! Man, can I be long winded or what!!

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by King Dad View Post
    FWIW, in a perfect world.... at "idle" all the carbs would be/should be "closed". AND, the timing of the ignition is going to determine idle speed. ie: advance timing would raise the rpms and retarding timing is going to reduce timing. All with-out the carb butterflys coming into play...because you adjusted them closed!! Well, are they???? The center carb roller should not be touching the cam and if you loosen the top and bottom carb vertical link screws, leave them loose, run the engine, and perhaps giving each carb linkage a "blip" to get the springs to bounce each butterflys back to a full closed position. Now you know they are closed as each carbs spring tension is keeping them closed and not a miss-adjusted linkage you "thought" was correct!!!!. And, as you run it on the flusher or @ the dock, you can tighten the top screw, check to make sure the idle speed remains the same, do the bottom screw and monitor the speed. Now you know the carbs are closed, because you check'd them not just visually (and often quickly) but by monitoring the idle speed in "real world" conditions. My point is that you may have thought you got it right by loosening and tightening the carb linkage staticly but I just don't trust myself to always be 100% accurate. And sometimes cranking down on the phillips screws actually may bump the linkage to be "out of spec" . So, if in doubt, loosen all the carb screws and leave them be loose and run the motor, then tighten..then you know! Man, can I be long winded or what!!
    Good advise.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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