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  1. #1
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    Cowling wont fit

    I put a Mercury 2.4/200 powerhead on a bassboat for a friend. The motor that was on it was a 175 vertical reed motor. The stock clamshell cowling does not fit. The carb airbox is approx. 1 3/4" too long for the cowling to shut. I am using the 175 airbox. It has the aluminum plate with a plastic cover. The trim solenoids mount to the starboard side of the aluminum plate and it also has guides on top and bottom for the cowling. Will I have to replace the cowling(he is not wanting to do this for money reasons). Is there a different airbox that will clear? My motors have always run Hi Po cowlings and this has never been an issue.
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  2. #2
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    I have encountered this also, using the older style 150/175 air silencer on a 200 powerhead and it will not fit under a 150/175 vertical reed cowl. I had to swap to a 200 clamshell cowl. They should be pretty plentiful, and cheap. Of course not now when you need one!

  3. #3
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    Thanks John. I can probably find an old clamshell. So the 200 is longer and I can still use the old airbox?
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  4. #4
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    Thanks John. I can probably find an old clamshell. So the 200 is longer and I can still use the old airbox?
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by largecar91 View Post
    Thanks John. I can probably find an old clamshell. So the 200 is longer and I can still use the old airbox?
    No its not longer. Just different in front. 200 clam shells have a single plastic inter locking latch and are "cut" different in tha front so as ta only fit tha horizontal front and air box. Tha vertical air box only fits vertical fronts and clam shells with tha two metal springy things for latches. If you can find tha "plastic latch you can modify tha vertical clam shell front to fit. Did an early XR4 clam shell that way. Worked just fine.........but ya still gotta have tha tha air box for tha horizontal front. Vertical and horizontal air boxes won't interchange......
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 07-22-2013 at 03:04 PM.

  6. #6
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    Just got done with this problem. Here is what I learned.

    Cowl is not longer just cut a little different in the front and has a different latch
    Attenuator cover for the clam shell is the one that is thin and has the bulge in the front.
    Motor is not only longer the carbs are spaced a little bit farther apart vertically.
    The vertical attenuator from the 175 will not fit the horizontal motor. (at least not mine)
    The throttle link from the arm to the cam is longer

    This is what I did

    The 88509 Attenuator fits carbs and because it is recessed back around the carbs rather that straight out in front it gives you some additional room.
    The one I got had the bucket cowl cover (longer) so I had to modify it. See pics in link below. This gave me the room to use the original latches and I think plenty of space in front of carbs. More that the thin cover would have. I used a piece of polycarbonat (sp) to fab up the cover.
    Found (ebay) the carb link 87604 that had the correct spacing.
    Happen to have the throttle link that was longer.

    If you search the Mercury parts site for 88/89 175 versus 200 you will see the parts difference.

    As for the trim solenoids I had already converted to a 2 wire pump motor so I had to wire up differently and mount. Fab'ed a bracket of the oil tank bracket to mount the solenoids. Made my own wire harness however if I did it all over again I would probably by the Merc conversion harness. Just easier. Added a fuel pump relay as well, not sure I had to just wanted too.

    http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/gmann201/library/Cowl

    Let me know how I can help. No reason we should both have to figure it out from scratch.

  7. #7
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    Thanks very much for the help. I might just throw a set velocity stacks and make a plate for the trim solenoids. See if thus works.
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  8. #8
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    I thought about that as well. What I found was the air box plate (attenuator) is what the top cowl support and the cable/fuel line support mounts too. I am sure with a little creativity you can overcome that. Good Luck

  9. #9
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    One other thing I forgot. To me they sound terrible with out a cover. At speed they are OK but at throttle up they sound like they are coming apart. May just be me.

  10. #10
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    I definetely appreciate the info. Do you know the how wide the attenuator is. I only have approx. 2" max from front of carb to cowl.
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  11. #11
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    I don't know exactly. I may be able to measure tonight. I do know that the way it is in the pictures on the link above is right on the cowl. What i made the cover from will flex a little so I can get the clamps to close. The attenuator like this one wraps back around the carbs some unlike the 175 one does. The rear most edge of the 175 one is at the carb front edge where the 200 one just has clearance for the throttle linkage. Let me see if I can measure it when I get home.

  12. #12
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    If you can find a lightweight plastic Bridgeport or Promax/260 cowl, you will lose about 30 lbs of fiberglass dead weight.
    '89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyro View Post
    If you can find a lightweight plastic Bridgeport or Promax/260 cowl, you will lose about 30 lbs of fiberglass dead weight.
    The guy doesn't want to spend the money for lightweight cowl. I think it has been 35 years since I have used anything but a lightweight cowling on my stuff. From T2's to V-6's. Except of course louvered inline wraps!
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

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