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  1. #1
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    '72 Evinrude 85 V4 won't run

    Recently picked up a 16' runabout off craigslist. Has a 1972 Evinrude 85hp V-4 Crossflow motor on it. Model number 85293R. Electric Shift. It seems like this forum is a bit more race-oriented, but I figure there must be some pretty knowledgeable people on here so figured I'd give it a shot....

    I know very little about outboard motors and am have a heck of a time getting the thing to run. When I first tried to start it without doing any work it wouldnt even try and catch at all. I have a 12v battery charger that has a 250amp engine start setting so i know its not a battery amperage problem.

    Since buying it i have done the following
    -Cleaned up every electrical contact I can reach without pulling the power head off (including contacts in controls)
    -New fuel tank
    -New Fuel line/primer bulb
    -New spark plugs all around
    -Checked that all 4 cylinders have spark
    -Mixed fresh fuel. added slightly more oil than a 50:1 (approx 40:1)so as to ensure motor was properly lubricated after sitting.
    -Checked compression. Cylinders have 110,115,120,125 psi.
    -Pulled carbs and found them all gunked up. Fully disassembled and cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air. Did not remove jets.
    -Checked floats and made them parallel with top of float bowl.
    -Rebuilt carbs with new carb kits.

    After rebuilding the carbs the engines still would not start and i found that the float needle on the upper carb was sticking, and not letting any fuel into the bowl. I took both carbs apart and used a little WD40 to lube up the float needles and the bowls fill up fine now. Engine still will not start. Thought i may have a fuel pump issue so I pulled the pump off and disassembled it and ended up breaking a piece of plastic on the inside so I am working on finding a replacement fuel pump.

    With the fuel pump bypassed i have used the primer bulb to fill the bowls and try to start again, no luck. With starter fluid i can get the engine to catch and run for 30 seconds but it wont stay running, even if i squeeze the primer bulb to put pressure on the fuel lines. I then found labeling on the engine for 4 low speed mixture screws and backed them out 1/2 turn from seated but that did nothing either. I cant seem to find any info on what the factory setting on those screws are supposed to be.(See Pic)

    So where should I turn next?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    Be careful with the starter fluid, most don't have lubrication. I think you may have said that you didnot remove the jets. I would remove the jets and ensure that each one is clear; If you use a needle or whatever to open the jet, be careful not to break the tip off inside the jet. If you have air, spark and fuel, that engine will run.

  3. #3
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    The choke system on that motor is almost useless, get a spray bottle, put some premix in it and try it like you use starter fluid.

  4. #4
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    When you pulled the bowls off the carbs, you should have seen a brass tube (one on each side of the carb) that extends down into the bowl from the upper carb body.
    For each side, there are actually two tubes, one inside the other.
    If you didn't clean out the very small tube (inner one) it cannot get gas to idle.
    Spraying pre-mix into the carbs will get it to run for a few seconds, then it will die. Your symptoms.
    You have to clean it out with a fine wire. I use welding tip cleaners.
    Most people miss this detail.
    As gunked up as you describe, they are surely clogged.

    If this doesn't exactly match your carbs, then study what you have. You WILL have something very similar.

    EDIT: Re-reading your OP, you didn't remove the jets? Did you remove the core plugs? If not, you haven't cleaned the carbs correctly.

  5. #5
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    It sounds like carbs need to go into a boil tank to properly clean them. I would also be very careful with a battery charger hooked with the ign. on that engine.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvd View Post
    When you pulled the bowls off the carbs, you should have seen a brass tube (one on each side of the carb) that extends down into the bowl from the upper carb body.
    For each side, there are actually two tubes, one inside the other.
    If you didn't clean out the very small tube (inner one) it cannot get gas to idle.
    Spraying pre-mix into the carbs will get it to run for a few seconds, then it will die. Your symptoms.
    You have to clean it out with a fine wire. I use welding tip cleaners.
    Most people miss this detail.
    As gunked up as you describe, they are surely clogged.

    If this doesn't exactly match your carbs, then study what you have. You WILL have something very similar.

    EDIT: Re-reading your OP, you didn't remove the jets? Did you remove the core plugs? If not, you haven't cleaned the carbs correctly.
    Was wary to remove the jets as I dont have the "special tool" screwdriver, but after some reading looks like ill just give a shot at making one. Core plugs were removed, cleaned and replaced with new ones. Didnt even know about how to clean the jets with fine wire...

    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    It sounds like carbs need to go into a boil tank to properly clean them. I would also be very careful with a battery charger hooked with the ign. on that engine.
    Boil Tank? Is there a boiling process that can be done at home or is special equipment needed? Should i still do something like that even if i remove and clean the jets correctly? ...or is special equipment needed?

    Also I dont really use the 250 amp engine start mode on the charger, I've used the 50 amp setting when trying to start it but usually just the battery by itself.

  7. #7
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    Any loose or poor connection like battery charger can take out the powerpack on that engine real easy.

    The carbs need to be disassembled and let to soak in carb cleaner, fully submerged. At home if you have compressed air you can let it bubble in the cleaner to help clean passages you cant get to. Not as good as a true boil tank but will do the job.

  8. #8
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    Set idle screws to 5/8 turn upen. Manually choke the motor to see if it starts.

  9. #9
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    Well if carb's are clean. And good compression. Then I would look under the flywheel. Don't forget if you have a true 72 you also have points, rotor, distributor cap reversing spring and a primitive power pac, all of which require maintance. Thank's Martin

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by iDriveAVan View Post


    so I am working on finding a replacement fuel pump.

    With the fuel pump bypassed i have used the primer bulb to fill the bowls and try to start again, no luck. With starter fluid i can get the engine to catch and run for 30 seconds but it wont stay running
    What exactly did you bypass the fuel pump with? These motors don't run so good if'n they ain't got one ...
    '71 Glastron V153 - Composite rebuild - Unceremoniously wrecked
    '81 Baja 15 SS - "nine-paged" '77 140
    '81 Carlson C500 Metric - Currently in foster care
    '70 something Speedcraft - Allison 16R clone - Undergoing restoration
    '79 Carlson CVZ 19 - Far back burner
    WALK TALL AND CARRY A BIG BILGE PUMP

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