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  1. #76
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    I DID THE marles set up fender washers poppet hose to fine tune running old school 15'' 1 pc &2.5 steel bore havent tryed it yet 1pc has small holes to cool w/pump hope it heats up like 125 or so .

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magcat 62 View Post
    I DID THE marles set up fender washers poppet hose to fine tune running old school 15'' 1 pc &2.5 steel bore havent tryed it yet 1pc has small holes to cool w/pump hope it heats up like 125 or so .
    it should get hotter than that.....we set up a stock 200 on a 280 plate ....followed marles setup exactly! capped off poppet completely.....motor runs 150 summer time and 140 last time out....fine tune with differnt hole size coming out of heads


    im currently setting up a steel bore motor on a early 260 plate with the 4 small dumps.....well see how it does soon.........
    81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
    before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3

  3. #78
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    Alot depends on where you run your boat when using Marles set up. When I did it years ago, as long as the inlet water temp was between 55 and 80 degrees, it worked fine. Cooler water temps were a problem. I found that reducing the drain holes to 1/4 inch in the adapter and adding a discharge off the poppet cover with a venturi ( brass plug/fitting with a hole to provide additional discharge in warm water) provided addition range. Also, it is very important not to for get the diverters in the block.
    Go Time
    2003XS GS 225 Promax/ 260 / 280
    26 Regulator twin 250 EFI

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  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Go Time View Post
    Alot depends on where you run your boat when using Marles set up. When I did it years ago, as long as the inlet water temp was between 55 and 80 degrees, it worked fine. Cooler water temps were a problem. I found that reducing the drain holes to 1/4 inch in the adapter and adding a discharge off the poppet cover with a venturi ( brass plug/fitting with a hole to provide additional discharge in warm water) provided addition range. Also, it is very important not to for get the diverters in the block.
    Mark,
    Exactly! It takes a little tweaking to make it temp up correctly in your waters.
    Not something for everyone and it could get a bit frustrating if you are doing it for the first time!
    A perfect and proven example to me was, a buddy here locally was running around breaking-in a 225PM so running in the bay everything all is good so he decided to go out the inlet into the cold Atlantic waters 5mins into it he cold seized.
    The other very important thing to do is the block mods. Reason being the cold water comes up and hits the lower cylinders dead on, which is NG.
    If you look at the PM block you can see the drain holes in the intake cavity and if you look at a 245/260/280 block that normally come with the 1pc's are in the outside of that cavity hence the reason to Marles block mod.
    NOTE: I do not like to weld the block! I use Stainless flush plugs with red loctite in case I want to reverse the mod to run on a 2pc plate.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #80
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    Here are the blocks hope these help some that are wondering about these drain holes.
    First 2 pics are 245/260 block, the second 2 are a 225PM block, notice the drain holes.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Go Time View Post
    Well I started my one piece adapter project as well. I'm modifying an oval port 280 1 piece plate. Going to weld in bulkheads to build a poppet discharge chamber and weld up the two drain holes and then drill small drains to drain the discharge plenum. Then replace 280 tuner with a Promax oval tuner.
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg G View Post
    Will the 1 piece 280ROS adapter, once you modify it to use poppet and 120 thermostat cooling, be run on a Promax 225 20" ?
    Quote Originally Posted by Go Time View Post
    It will be running a new Promax 225. It will also have an SVS and a Brucato ACU with a curve developed specific to the application and dyno tuned. It will be on a 15" smoothback mid, with a JC coned Torquemaster.
    Any progress on the conversion effort? Who did the dyno work?

  9. #82
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    Lee & Clay Sanderson and I did the dyno runs. We did some baseline runs before the SVS conversion and then a bunch after. Then used the data to develop a custom fuel curve.
    Still waiting to get the adapter back from the welder/machinist.
    Go Time
    2003XS GS 225 Promax/ 260 / 280
    26 Regulator twin 250 EFI

  10. #83
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    right on tux....we did block mods as well

    does take some patience...attention and tweaking to dial it in
    81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
    before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3

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  12. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90 5.0 View Post

    Two piece plate only turns 8500ish but is strong down low, a 280 plate turned 9400 but was weak on the bottom.
    this i find interesting....thats a huge difference if all else is the same.
    81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
    before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3

  13. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Go Time View Post
    Lee & Clay Sanderson and I did the dyno runs. We did some baseline runs before the SVS conversion and then a bunch after. Then used the data to develop a custom fuel curve.
    They are good people, you are in good hands.

  14. #86
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    Mark, ...that is one heavy casting to work with when it comes to welding.
    Post up pics when you get it back.....

  15. #87
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    Yeah, and access is poor. I think I will also use some epoxy to reinforce and help seal the joints.
    Go Time
    2003XS GS 225 Promax/ 260 / 280
    26 Regulator twin 250 EFI

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  17. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by tux974 View Post
    Here are the blocks hope these help some that are wondering about these drain holes.
    First 2 pics are 245/260 block, the second 2 are a 225PM block, notice the drain holes.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wether you are running a 1 piece or 2 piece adapter on the promax i can't see it make any difference regarding the drain holes? With both adapter fresh cool water can enter the drains. Or am I missing something? Thanks
    http://www.geocities.com/fletcher_arrowbeau

    Fletcher 17F6
    Hydrostream HST 20F

  18. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboy View Post
    Wether you are running a 1 piece or 2 piece adapter on the promax i can't see it make any difference regarding the drain holes? With both adapter fresh cool water can enter the drains. Or am I missing something? Thanks
    Look closely. The holes on the PM block are on the entry cavity side of the plate where the water comes into the block and when it is the coldest.
    On the 245/260 block they are on the drain side of the plate.
    If you run in waters that are normally warm to hot it would probably not be an issue. There is a reason why Mercury did that. This is just my opinion and suggestion!

  19. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by tux974 View Post
    Look closely. The holes on the PM block are on the entry cavity side of the plate where the water comes into the block and when it is the coldest.
    On the 245/260 block they are on the drain side of the plate.
    If you run in waters that are normally warm to hot it would probably not be an issue. There is a reason why Mercury did that. This is just my opinion and suggestion!
    Yes I understand. Only thing I was wondering is if running a 1 piece or 2 piece plate would make any difference on the pm block regarding the drain holes. Cold water will be pushed in both with 1 piece and 2 piece. Maybe they did it because of the high volume water cooling with a stock 1 piece plate?
    http://www.geocities.com/fletcher_arrowbeau

    Fletcher 17F6
    Hydrostream HST 20F

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