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03-04-2015, 05:56 AM #91
Thanks for your interest...........
Absolutely, the key is having a cable at the foot control end that has a steel sleeve at 9.525 mm/.375 diameter as that's where the cable is retained in the foot control using a clamping force. On the motor end it's pretty generic. You'll probably be using a new (recommended) or your original cable, removing the solid core stainless wire from within, modifying the ends per the instructions (no special tools) and feed the new stainless cable into your old housing after you've installed the spring housing, spring, and throttle arm. After that it's pretty much a walk in the park to set idle and WOT, lock cable in place and go burn some gas(setting idle & WOT is much easier with a second person present).............. Total install time, about an hour and a half tops. This is a "PULL" throttle, you must have a pull configuration.
NOTE: I highly recommend the use of a new cable as your old cable is full of crap from all the years of service and may likely impede the smooth action provided by the foot throttle. On one proto type tested we even found a stock cable that some one had filled with grease/oil over the years trying to get it to operate smoother. He bought the boat used so he had no idea, you wouldn't believe the crap that came out of the cable when we ran gas through it with a fuel pump to flush it out, don't do this as it was only done to investigate/research the problem so we could understand the root cause, cable was not reused !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Last edited by Liberator*21; 04-18-2015 at 06:23 AM. Reason: Spelling
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03-06-2015, 06:54 PM #92
Don't need any anodizing on one. Do you have a target price on one plain aluminum?
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03-07-2015, 05:37 AM #93
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03-07-2015, 06:21 AM #94
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03-07-2015, 07:09 AM #95
Not look'n to make a fortune, just providing the best control for a reasonable price. I thought I had a CNC machine lined up to do some of this work but that didn't pan out (to date), so it's all made by me here in my shop on manual equipment one part at a time. There maybe times where none are available due to this as I try to make parts in lots of 1 run yielding about a dozen parts then onto the next part. Worst part is deburring everything, eats allot of time up........... Should be starting a new post on the Foot Throttle by months end in the PARTS FOR SALE section, detailed pics included. I'll post a link up here when that happens.
I stand behind what I make and sell that's why I support my product by stating:
Warrantied for life to the original purchaser, you break it, I'll replace it "FREE", shipping included !!!!! Nobody else supports a product like this............
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03-09-2015, 03:04 PM #96
Sound good will be looking forward to it.
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03-22-2015, 08:36 PM #97Junior Member
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Nice Product. I'd like to be put on the list please.
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03-22-2015, 09:52 PM #98
any new info on release date? Gary I don't wanna have to put this old one back in Colin's boat
Mirage Jaguar RiverRacer
Polaris PRO785
Bennington 255LCC
Scream & Fly Flying Machine of the Month: September 2005
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ild&highlight=
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03-23-2015, 04:47 AM #99
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03-28-2015, 09:15 AM #100
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03-28-2015, 04:49 PM #101Team Member
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Gary
looks ggggggreat can't wait !
kit is a good idea .
let me know when u want
me to send $$$$
bob
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04-02-2015, 11:03 AM #102
I keep getting ask if the bolt pattern on the mounting base can be the same as a Hot Foot. The answer is yes & no with additional costs and changes in pedal position (read on). Here are some pics the help you understand why, these are based on the pedal faces being equally aligned, it should help answer your questions.....
Base Bolt Pattern
With pedal pivot points equal, you can see that the pedal would have to be moved way forward in order to attempt to duplicate the Hot Foot bolt pattern, that alone would be a comfort issue.
Front view look, with pedal faces equal, you can clearly see why it would be a problem to somehow add the Hot Foot bolt pattern and keep the peadal faces the same. Totally can be done but it'll cost allot extra and I'm trying to stay away from "EXTRA $$$$ COSTS". But if your willing to pay we can talk later as it will take an adapter plate with the Hot Foot B/Pattern that the EZ FOOT would bolt to, it's actually a DIY project you can handle yourself if needed. The Hot Foot B/Pattern will barely fit on the EZ FOOT base plate but at a cost of about 3 1/2 of forward pedal positioning.
One could make an adapter plate from 1/4" Alum. Plate with the EZ FOOT bolt pattern and H/FOOT bolt pattern as shown below. Adapter plate would bolt down first, then EZ FOOT would bolt onto the adapter plate. Obviously, new holes would be needed in the EZ FOOT base plate (as noted below).
Example;
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04-08-2015, 06:06 AM #103
Probably my last update before I start a new thread in the "PARTS FOR SALE SECTION". I'm working with a local powder coating vendor right now about a total powder coating of the EZ FOOT. The difficulty is in the linkage arm holes, they will not powder easy because you'd have to hit them from both sides at approx. 4 angles, (90, 90, 90 & 90) and the powder build up on the square surfaces would be very thick presenting clearance issues of some components while trying to get the holes 100% powdered. We're experimenting right now on different ways to possibly do it, if we succeed, the offering to powder the "ENTIRE" pedal will become available.
As it stands right now, the pedal itself can be powdered $10, (if we succeed....) the entire pedal assy can be custom color coated for $40, certain custom colors maybe higher. Wait/delivery times will also increase due to full powder coating. I'm trying to offer you everything you might want in a custom pedal, but if it's not gonna be totally right, it's not gonna happen.Last edited by Liberator*21; 04-11-2015 at 07:16 AM. Reason: Correct Powder Coating price
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04-10-2015, 04:32 AM #104
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04-10-2015, 05:29 PM #105