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Thread: 140 cross -flo.

  1. #1
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    140 cross -flo.

    Anyone know how to run a 140 cross-flo. 7,400-7,500 RPM. with out useing the [strangler[ v4 8 barrel carb. system thanks?-----------------------------------The set up is a viper.
    Last edited by terry taylor; 04-11-2012 at 12:09 PM.
    free spirit / ONTARIO, CANADA.

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    Maybe a diff. "tuner" -L-O-L-
    (remember me)

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    We used to run the stranglers with the standard 4 barrel intake in order to run a second class it would loose from the 8 barrel but could still get them well into the 7k range.

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    Does this mean you ran strangler moded power head, as opposed to production 140 v4 thanks ?
    free spirit / ONTARIO, CANADA.

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    I've been running a 115/140 conversion on my viper for 2 years now and have turned it up to 7600 rpm for a while. The engine has factory porting & pistons(non-scalloped) and that was as far as I wanted to push it on a lake motor. Now besides sounding great at that rpm(nothing sounds like a v4 crossflow IMHO), I have since propped it to turn ~6700 hopeing to make it live a little longer.

    There is nothing special about the engine either; 140 heads, '77 tuner, cut can, 1 5/16" carbs, boyesen, etc. The cylinder porting has not been raised but, everything has been radiused. Including the bubble-back & block where the exhaust re-enters. I have upgraded the wrist pin bearings though. A simple build on a really simple engine that runs great and makes awesome fuel mileage.

    I have been thinking about building another powerhead with the 2.6 v6 mods( a la Racer) but this thing is running so well I'm undecided... Good luck with your build and if a v4 crossflow makes you smile at 6000 rpm, you should try 7600, lol!
    Last edited by Superstocker; 04-14-2012 at 12:00 PM. Reason: Loves to outrun v6's!!! Lol!!!

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    Upgraded rod bearings?

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    Sorry, my bad. Not rod bearings. I meant wrist pin bearings. I went with an "uncaged" wrist pin bearing.

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    What do you use as a grease and/or method to assemble the needles?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Superstocker View Post
    Sorry, my bad. Not rod bearings. I meant wrist pin bearings. I went with an "uncaged" wrist pin bearing.
    You should have stuck with the caged version,the uncaged verson the washer breaks at hi RPM!

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    Quote Originally Posted by perfmarine1 View Post
    You should have stuck with the caged version,the uncaged verson the washer breaks at hi RPM!
    I have built many of these with the full floating wristpin bearings and have had no failures. My current 140 turns a 27" OMC cleaver at 7400 rpm with no issues. I'd be interested to see one with this condition.

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverman View Post
    What do you use as a grease and/or method to assemble the needles?
    Take a little wheel bearing grease and put it in the freezer. It thickens up long enough to provide great staying power for assembly.

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    I use vaseline petroleum jelly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JWTjr. View Post
    I have built many of these with the full floating wristpin bearings and have had no failures. My current 140 turns a 27" OMC cleaver at 7400 rpm with no issues. I'd be interested to see one with this condition.

    John
    Caged bearings are a bit lighter too aren't they? Never weighed them, just assuming. I can't see having no cages being an upgrade.

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    hard to believe 7600 is a good rpm to run with stock ports??
    Last edited by powerabout; 04-15-2012 at 07:59 PM.

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    I'm with powerabout, there can't be too much power left at that engine speed. Mine seems to run out of steam at about 6000. I could prop it smaller but I'm certain the boat would slow down. I guess if you are drag racing and need the acceleration more than top end it is justifiable.

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