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  1. #61
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    The talon and liberator are the only two single applications that I have personally seen a single 400 work on so far. I don't think that they will ever work on a true tunnel as a single application. The size of the case is tough to overcome and getting to the point that it is surfaced. I know everyone thinks that the four stroke is gong to make all kinds of torque and be a game changer but they really only work well at 7100 with the case way up from what I have seen.

    I hope you are able to get it sorted out with a large dia. 5 blade and a good hydraulic jack plate. Its going to need a 30 pitch minimum to run on the top side with that gear and 10% slip factor. Getting the case up should also get rid of the majority of your handling quirks.

    You have to remember that twins also provide twice as much transom lift "two props and two cases to ride up on"

    Joe
    Last edited by JPEROG; 12-19-2017 at 09:10 AM.

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  3. #62
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    You appear to have a ton of setback when you consider the 400 has 5” built into it. You may have to go higher or closer or a combination of both to find the sweet spot. On the Talon 22 running the drive too low will induce porpoising.
    Mark

  4. #63
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    my 23 did not settle down till about 90 75 to 85 it was not happy

  5. #64
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    When it porpoises, it feels like I'm hitting the brakes everytime the nose comes down.

  6. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPEROG View Post
    You have to remember that twins also provide twice as much transom lift "two props and two cases to ride up on"

    Joe
    Thanks for the feedback, Joe. I think what you and Eli are saying is that I need enough acceleration to get through the [normal] 75-85 hop, but too short of a prop and I'll run out of rpm before packing air. Too tall and I can't accelerate through.

    I did lose the lift of one prop, but I also lost 550 lb of weight off the rear.

    I know a 24 is hard on the limiter at 68 (25% slip), a 26 is hopping at 76-77mph at 7000 rpm (20% slip), and a 30 is a slug in the midrange. All bravo1's. The slip did drop 5% from 68 to 77 mph so that says something. A 28 might be goldilocks.

    At this point in my journey I think I have 4 possible next steps:
    1. Lower engine to address high slip numbers and see if the current 26 will get it through the hop.
    2. Experiment with higher trim. I havent tried anything over neutral trim.
    3. Keep engine at the current 1.5" over the pad and increase blade area (max5?). The twins would run low 70's at only 6% slip due to twice the blade in the water.
    4. Try a 27 or 28" b1 to see if it will get through the hop.
    Last edited by engineermike; 12-19-2017 at 08:24 PM.

  7. #66
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    Definitely need a 15" dia. five blade wheel and jack plate in my eyes.

    Joe

  8. #67
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    I thought trimming out is step 1?

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  10. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300x Stoker View Post
    I thought trimming out is step 1?
    Haha maybe so. Maybe I'm just overly cautious about trimming an air entrapment hull too high.

  11. #69
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    Yep, It`s better to learn slowly rather than make a mistake.

  12. #70
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    I personally believe the B1 won’t work in this application. Unless the CG is way off the boat should fly properly without excessive bow lift needed. 5 blades get real expensive real fast, I would go with something like a ProMax in the 28 - 30. A 28 @ 10% slip will get you to 95 with this motor so that’s where I would start. As for drive height, the 400 case will provide more stern lift the deeper it is, couple that with the high bow lift properties of the B1 and you get porpoiseing. Use a neutral prop as high as you can run it with good water pressure and I’m betting you will see a marked improvement.
    Mark

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  14. #71
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    I used slightly positive trim in calm water in rough or windy water Was nuetral or slightly neg trim 23 don't like lot of trim,engine height is more critical especially with a single ,start even with pad ,28 pitch bravo prop 3 blade there are few used one's on fee bay and here
    Last edited by eli; 12-20-2017 at 06:59 PM.

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  16. #72
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    All of the 400 applications that I have seen successful have a five blade wheel with big dia. Call Hydromotive and see what he might have for you. There stuff is stiff and hook up well. Once you get it to the point of being close, then it might be worth getting a merc., dewald, or hering. You are going to need a hyd. bracket or plate to have the best of all worlds. Keep us posted-

    Joe

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  18. #73
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    You should try and install adjustable tunnel extensions. On my 26 Advantage flat deck party cat the tunnels are 14” wide so I made tunnel extensions out of 1/4 aluminum 14” X 14” and installed them. It fixed the porpoise problem. If you pm me with an email i will send you pictures.

  19. #74
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    Remember how bad the 20ft LCB ran with a 400? He ran 114 with a 300x and the best he saw with the 400 was 101. It's a full tunnel boat.
    " IT'S NOT HOW FAST YOU ARE, IT'S HOW COOL YOU LOOK!!! "

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  20. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by WILDMAN View Post
    Remember how bad the 20ft LCB ran with a 400? He ran 114 with a 300x and the best he saw with the 400 was 101. It's a full tunnel boat.
    He actually ran 120 with his LCB fishing boat and a stock X. The 400 was a disaster. Out of all of the boats tested at Fat Cat, one out of seven was faster with a single 400R Vs a single 300XS. Here is Brent's LCB fish deck with a stock X: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cfhg3zYV_fI


    Joe
    Last edited by JPEROG; 12-25-2017 at 04:39 PM.

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