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Thread: new boat build

  1. #1
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    new boat build

    Ok so im trying to learn glass and composits.I have use of a 234 mold[cant say brand] the checkmate guys will know it. What would be the best resin to use for strength and weight.also after gell is sprayed what glass to use before end grain balsa core and over core.This will be my first new boat build.any help shannon, coop? Im trying to learn the presedure and have a full game plan in place before i start. Thanks

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    When I built my last 20' flats boat, I used vinylester resin. Layed 3/4oz matt skin out glass, let that get hard, then wet on wet 2 layers of 1708 bi-axial glass. Installed core and covered with 1 layer of 1708. Let this cure. Over this I glassed in my stringers (penske board) with 2 layers of 1708 bi-axial. Added some xtra glass to transom, (also penske board) keel and bow eye area. Has held up very well with no cracks. It is 5 yrs. old and is run very hard. Hull wt. is less than 1000#s. Hope this helps......You will need1 person mixing resin full time and 2 people wetting out and rolling out together. A gopher is also good to have for placing glass on the mold, green trimming and cleaning tools as you go.....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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    Hey guy there are more then a few good resins out there made by Ashland , Cook, and Reichhold just to to name few , and to tell you the truth your best bet ........... on an all around fabric for your build would be 1708 along with keeping you costs down by using ply for your stringer's and transom which basically is the norm today for most Boat Co's considering there are other alternatives such as Coosa , Pensk Board , ect , ect , which once again will add to the cost of your inital build , and as far as weight goes have you given much thought on weather you would like to try vacumm bagging the part which can and will save you some weight other then having to do an old school ....... standard open layup . Bdusted 440 , as far as a layup schedule goes it really depends on your choice of materials , weight ,and what you are trying to achive in your build because every layup schedule is different ect , ect , and just curious what type of boat are you trying to build .............go fast , or...........
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 12-19-2011 at 11:12 AM.

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    go fast and family use. its an old checkmate persauder 234 b/r mold a very good friend has and will let me use.i want to put a sbc so light is a isue with a 23ft boat.But i need it to be strong as the water i run on is rough. 16k acre lake .lake castlerock.when the winds come up we get 2-4 ft rollers and white caps.and thats with 10 mph winds.Ill say this is my first full boat build ive fixed and custumised alot of boats but not from scratch.I think its just something i need to do for myself.And i really enjoy doing it.Where and how much would it cost to bag it.thats a big mold.and thanks guys i need to say the molds were purchased from checkmate by my friend who worked there at the time and it will not be a checkmate brand boat or have any afiliation with that brand.It will be a one off boat for my personal use.
    Last edited by Bdusted440; 12-19-2011 at 04:02 PM.

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    Here they areClick image for larger version. 

Name:	mold 001.jpg 
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ID:	248373

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    Have you checked out the procedure for getting a title for this homemade boat? This might be a good place to start......

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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    and just curious how long have those molds been sitting out side un-covered............. with no frame work underneath to move or tilt them up side down which most likely are filled with water , and when was the last time a part was ever pulled from them ? Hey guy , not to be rude and take away from your dream........ but do you relize just how many man hours it might take to rework a mold which only....... might be good for one part depending on the condition of the mold ? And , for starters ........answering..... one of your questions about bagging and cost................ bagging leaves a nicer , cleaner , and lighter layup with less room for human error which in your case you would need to buy a pump , and everything else that is needed to do the job ect , ect . Bd , there are many years of experience on this thread from Allen.P ,bottoms up (Billy) , X-stream viking, and myself , giving you good sound advise and to tell you the truth this is a very big job considering you have little or no experience laminating which in itself can , and could be very overwhelming for a first timer with no experience ,and for starters you just might want to consider taking a composite coarse like the one that is offered in my area that is a hands on requirment for people going into building wind turbines (BLADE'S) which covers everything from resin , to fabric such as S & E glass , Carbon Fiber , Kevlar , Core , along with vacuum bagging , and doing infusion .
    Last edited by OFFSHORE GINGER; 12-20-2011 at 09:01 AM.

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    Nothing like jumping in at the deep end!
    I've no idea your level of experience with glass, but assuming little or none as you said "trying to learn glass and composites"
    I think you would be streets ahead, to source a smaller mould to cut your teeth on, if nothing else it wont hurt you back pocket as much if you make the occasional mistake.
    Plus you can try a few different things first, see what works for you.


    Power Marine 650 Offshore Race, Yamaha 130 Pro-V

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    I've been down this road,produced
    4 jersey speed skiff, hand lay up ,holy air in the strakes
    2 15 ft v bottom capsule circle boats
    1 24 ft eliminator from original molds
    2 vectors from original molds
    1234 obsession from original molds

    With all this I would still farm out that lamination job your wanting to tackle. As gg said you best have some time unde you belt.

    I have a source that would lay the boat up correctly for about 10.00 per pound , they currantly make boats and other frp parts.Your going to pay 3.00 to 4.50 per pound in the end on materials depending on what they are......... I can provide you with this supplier for this build and or a lay up schedule if you are tackling it yourself email me....

    Hope this helps
    www.bottomsupboatrepair.com

    847-
    587-5553

    Complete Service Center

  10. #10
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    we had just pulled them out of my friends boat shop. he has built boats for 20 years.but he is stuck on the old ways and i like the new technoligies.ive done alot of repairs and gell work but never made one.he is from bucyrus oh.worked for the big 2 there. he has talked me into doing it at his shop and letting the ladies that do it all day lay mine up cost 12 an hour but they are quick.ive got several vacume pumps but need to research it more.and yes i jumped in with both feet in the deep end.but im there now.sink or swim.ive wanted to do this for a long time.and as im retired now i have alot of time .and if i dont get away from the mrs for awhile everyday well........
    Last edited by Bdusted440; 12-20-2011 at 10:33 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Have you checked out the procedure for getting a title for this homemade boat? This might be a good place to start......
    it will be a persauder boat. titled as such

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    Sounds like you got it goin on....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  13. #13
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    ive been working to this for a long time.but i am gonna splash the master craft first as a warm up.between you guys and bear telling me to warm up small first.last week in jan ill be in bucyrus prepping the mold and spraying gel.ill let the girls lay it up and ill do the rest.but im learning alot from you guys so keep it coming.

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    The two fun parts of boat building.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XTTunnel.jpg   XT-xb.jpg  

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    And thanks for not holding back im the kind of guy that needs to here it strait.Im going to have the laminating done for me as said .i had to let your input soak up and get my common sence back .But i will do all the rest myself. on endless boating i put up a thred of the boat i replaced the transome in this weekend.finished it monday and fired it up.came out nice.but im used to reworking using what it was built with.but that being said now i have the choice of what to build it with.and the molds dont have a lip to use for bagging. so i guess if im using these molds thats out and for the other question its been aprox 12 months since a hull was pulled from the molds.they discontinued the line which is why i have use of them.Now bear is giving me all sorts of crap saying i dont need to use epoxy.[like i said oldschool] but in my opinion just the osmosis factor and how well it holds up is worth it in itself.another question. im being schooled to use endgrain balsa for a core.is there better out there?Im just trying to use your knowledge to build the best boat i can.with all the exp on this board i will get the answers i need maybee not the ones i want to here but the ones i need. to do it right.dont want to build a cheapie mass produced boat ya know. and thank you all for helping with my midlife crisis.

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