Thread: Procraft Hull Stability
08-23-2011, 07:04 PM #1
Procraft Hull Stability
I have a 1992 procraft 180 combo. Its a heavier boat, listed at 1800 with the motor. But whats the hull like on that at speed? I can only do about 45-50 with it on glass with a 115 Mariner and 19p prop. I am considering repowering, but will that hull be safe into the 60+ mph? Where we boat we do get lots of chop (Torch lake) but usually nothing over 1 foot. How good (or horrible) are these hulls? My experience has been ok with it WOT on glass, but thats not too fast either. Never really pushed it in chop because i dont want to end up swimming if its not a good hull for that haha. Any experience with these. I think they are the same as Triton hulls if i understand correctly.
Also considering a Baja 210 Sport with a 225 Mariner out back as my fast boat, but prefer the procraft because of the room for the fam when they want to join (almost always!)
08-24-2011, 06:58 PM #2
how about this...how can i delete the stupid 2+2 system on my mariner so i will at least be able to pop on plane
08-24-2011, 08:52 PM #3
My understanding of the 2+2 system you are talking about is that as soon as you put the throttle down it should immediately go to 4 cylinders. I don't think you can disable the 2+2 thingy.
Your boat should easily be stable at 60 mph, but... You will have to learn some new driving skills. Hulls like that, at that speed, get "loose" and it requires more, mmm, shall we say, attention to drive it safely.
What kind of steering does your boat have? Do you have set-back and/or a way to raise and lower the engine (i.e., a jack plate)? With your 115 how much positive trim do you need to apply to get the speeds you have recorded? How did you measure your speed? Can you post some pics of your rig? I'd particularly like to see the shape of the hull at the transom.
EDIT: I just did some research on your boat, and IMHO your boat is seriously UNDER powered. I'd have a least a 150 on that thing, and if it was me, I'd have a 200. BUT, I'd also have a jack plate, Seastar Pro hydraulic steering and solid mounts on the motor. But, I'm of the camp that you almost never have too much horsepower - to a point.
Last edited by croSSed; 08-24-2011 at 09:12 PM.
08-25-2011, 12:31 PM #4
The boat is more than underpowered. My dad bought new. Gave it to me. And I have no money to buy a new motor and most likely won't be able to sell mine for anything. Speed measured with a handheld gps. For 45-50mph all I need is to trim it a few positive degrees. Any more and the prop starts slipping and taking air like crazy. I'd really love more hole shot from this engine but I think it's just too small. Here's some pictures for you. Sorry for the lousy quality taken with iPhone 3GS. It's an 18ft boat. And I made a quick disconnect to remove trolling motor for non fishing days.
Again nothing special but it was free. At least I can get out on the water!
08-25-2011, 10:21 PM #5
You have a potentially nice performing boat there, but you need another 35 ponies AT LEAST to really get that thing up on the pad and movin'! But, if a 115 is all you got now, here's what I'd do: I'd try a 20P Laser II. That will probably make your holeshot even worse, but you'll get 3-5 mph increase at top speed, and you could probably raise your engine another 2 bolt holes, get even more speed, and it will not break loose at all when you trim it out. Maybe a better "all-'round" stainless prop for your rig is a 19P Mercury Vengeance. You will get better hole shot with this, but probably not as good a top speed as with the Laser II, but you will be able to raise your engine on the transom, and trim out w/o it breaking loose.
I notice that there seems to be no sealant around your mounting bolts, and no washers. I sure hope there is sealant there. If not, you probably have a rotten transom. Tilt the motor all the way up, put your hand on the lower leg around the anti-cavitation plate, and push down towards the ground. As you do this, watch your transom. If it moves noticeably, you have a big problem.
08-26-2011, 01:27 AM #6
It's sealed quite well. Zero rot. Just a good seal job. As for prop what do you think about an aluminum 4-blade. Should keep speed about the same but gain hole shot correct? I don't want to really drop 400 bucks on a prop when hopefully I can be rid of the engine and upgrade soon. I'm ok with the speed for now. Rarely sees wot since everyone wants to come so it's loaded down. I'm keeping my eye out for a 175hp+ merc. Will a 4 blade prop help with keeping it hooked up? Or is 4 blade a bad idea? again speed isn't concern now. I just want some pop and low end to get on plane quick
08-26-2011, 12:42 PM #7
Re. 4-blade aluminum: To answer your questions, I don't know. I have never tried one. Generally speaking, all alum. props are not as efficient as SS props. You could find a SS prop for considerably less than 400 if you shop around. Check here often: http://www.screamandfly.com/forumdis...p?5-Propellers I have purchased all my props from either eBay or Craigslist. Once a paid $180 for 20P High Five for my '87 I6 115 - which I no longer own - off eBay. When it arrived it was obviously a new prop, never run. Stolen? I don't know, but it was most definitely new. In any case, I've never come close to paying retail for a SS prop; shop around. Speaking of hole shot, there's a prop you should consider: 20P High Five.
EDIT: Look at 3-blade SS Michigan props, too. I once had a 19P 3-blade SS Michigan prop for my 115. That thing had RIDICULOUS hole shot!
Last edited by croSSed; 08-26-2011 at 12:48 PM.
08-26-2011, 03:26 PM #8
ive looked into the high five. my understanding was that the 115 is too small for it. but you had it and you had success with it?
08-26-2011, 11:48 PM #9
No, not too much prop for a 115, but you need to get a even pitch High Five. Those were made for the mid-sized torpedo that your 115 has - 20, 22 and 24P were all made for motors like yours. The odd pitches are for the 4.75" torpedo, i.e., V6 motors 135 on up. I have a 23P High Five for my 150 XR2 that I use for skiing, cruising, etc. I did the same thing with the 20P High Five and my 115.
08-29-2011, 06:10 PM #10
ok, so for now i might just look for a 20p High five to try out. to bad no one around me that would have one!
08-29-2011, 10:25 PM #11
Also Crossed, since you have been so helpful, what do you think about me running bobs 4 inch setback? will it hurt the transom at all? figure since i have the adjustable holes in mount, i can just use those to fine tune motor height. will that help wtih my bouncing and slower planing? is it a straight bolt on, liek can i keep all my current lines running to the motor and steering or do things need to changed a bit? I appreciate all the help you have been!I'm in the market....
08-29-2011, 10:56 PM #12
BTW, I have a functionally perfect CMC 5.5" set back manual jack plate. I just replaced it this season with the hydraulic version of the same plate. I'd sell it to you for $180 to your door!
Also, if you get a jack plate, you will be able to start with a higher initial engine height. It is a lot easier to mess with engine height because when you remove the mounting bolts between your motor/jack plate, you don't have to reseal them. Jack plates are slick. Now that I've owned a couple I don't think I could have a boat without one, if I wanted any kind of performance out of it.
08-30-2011, 05:57 AM #13
Like those fish & ski rigs. That one is nice.You never know what your faith is, until your faith has been truly tested.
08-30-2011, 02:00 PM #14
08-30-2011, 04:14 PM #15
thanks guys. its a great boat, super reliable, excellent condition, and very versatile for my wife, the dog, the kid, and me. but since im a skier, i was hoping to help it out in that department and when we pull friends on the tubes. croSSed, thanks a ton for the info, im definately going to be making some purchases here soon.I'm in the market....