Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 30 of 30
  1. #16
    Could I just buff the existing gel coat

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Windsor Locks, CT
    Posts
    297
    If its prep'd right is won't solvent pop I just did mine and it came out like glass over red metal flake. I wanted a lot of clear for the protection.
    Is a bird in hand worth two in the bush?
    NRA Member
    1979 baja BR180 Merc 175
    1986 Checkmate Starflite awaiting paint

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Amityville/Lindenhurst
    Posts
    2,555
    if the red flake was already faded it wont last without primer.
    spraying clear, sanding it, and spraying more clear is not a substitute for primer

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by RobF View Post
    if the red flake was already faded it wont last without primer.
    spraying clear, sanding it, and spraying more clear is not a substitute for primer
    Rob, that is not exactly true, and how could you shoot primer if you want to preserve the original color and flake I had a Vector that was so sun bleached it was chalky white over the blue metalflake. It was so rough it felt like sandpaper itself. I wet sanded it with 500 and shot it with clear Imron. That was 20 years ago and it still looks as good as new. I no longer own it but a guy around Birmingham had it several years ago when I last saw it. I would not say that it sits in the sun all of the time but he uses it regularly and it has a lot of hours on it now so it would have had a lot lot of exposure in these many years.

    The easy way to tell what it will look like is wet it down with a water hose. Clear Imron will make it look that good and then some. I have never seen it peel without primer.
    bama hama

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Windsor Locks, CT
    Posts
    297
    First I shot it with lexus transparent maroon to bring the red back, then the clearcoat. The problem with automotive clear coat over gel coat is no matter how well you prep it you will get fish eyes, and you will be sanding them out. The easy way to do it would be to bury it in expoxy primer and then your base coat and clear. But just clear coat equals fish eyes, hense all the sanding. It all depends on how nice you want it to look.
    Is a bird in hand worth two in the bush?
    NRA Member
    1979 baja BR180 Merc 175
    1986 Checkmate Starflite awaiting paint

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Windsor Locks, CT
    Posts
    297
    Quote Originally Posted by MercNuts View Post
    Rob, that is not exactly true, and how could you shoot primer if you want to preserve the original color and flake I had a Vector that was so sun bleached it was chalky white over the blue metalflake. It was so rough it felt like sandpaper itself. I wet sanded it with 500 and shot it with clear Imron. That was 20 years ago and it still looks as good as new. I no longer own it but a guy around Birmingham had it several years ago when I last saw it. I would not say that it sits in the sun all of the time but he uses it regularly and it has a lot of hours on it now so it would have had a lot lot of exposure in these many years.

    The easy way to tell what it will look like is wet it down with a water hose. Clear Imron will make it look that good and then some. I have never seen it peel without primer.

    I agree !!! Yes you can just wet sand your clearcoat but it really bepends on how much you have left . if you can feel your metal flake it too late for than you have to clear it .
    Is a bird in hand worth two in the bush?
    NRA Member
    1979 baja BR180 Merc 175
    1986 Checkmate Starflite awaiting paint

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Massillon, Ohio
    Posts
    912
    I hate gel coat lol. i know modvp22 is gonna chime in on this . we both have 18ft mirage river racers. his is paint. mine is gel. it took 3 days to sand and buff his boat took up this last few weeks to wetsand and we are just starting to buff on mine. its almost redic. on how hard it is to sand the gel. IMO paint is the way to go . it shows up better on the water aswell
    fubijarusmc@gmail.com if you need to contact me

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Amityville/Lindenhurst
    Posts
    2,555
    Quote Originally Posted by MercNuts View Post
    Rob, that is not exactly true, and how could you shoot primer if you want to preserve the original color and flake I had a Vector that was so sun bleached it was chalky white over the blue metalflake. It was so rough it felt like sandpaper itself. I wet sanded it with 500 and shot it with clear Imron. That was 20 years ago and it still looks as good as new. I no longer own it but a guy around Birmingham had it several years ago when I last saw it. I would not say that it sits in the sun all of the time but he uses it regularly and it has a lot of hours on it now so it would have had a lot lot of exposure in these many years.

    The easy way to tell what it will look like is wet it down with a water hose. Clear Imron will make it look that good and then some. I have never seen it peel without primer.
    I never said it would peel, im saying it wont retain gloss.

    you shoot it with clear primer first. 20 years ago things were different then they are now.
    Just 3 years ago I had a decent condition original owner checkmate that wanted to keep its gel scheme. I tried a section with just clear imron, and another with clear epoxy primer and imron. The spot I just clear imron is not holding up as well. That boat has 2 small platforms on the stern, figuring these were small and not over exposed to the sun I skipped the clear primer on these ( mainly because they were forgotten about ) and those are also not holding up. The difference is incredibly noticeable.

    The purpose of primer is to not only adhere paint but to RETAIN gloss for years to come.

    Alot of the boats on this board lead a much easier life then others, constantly under covers, living in garages, this checkmate sits out on a lift and only gets covered in the winter.

  9. #24
    I might be able to contribute a few thoughts to the OP coming from a background of automotive painting and I have only painted one fiberglass kit car, and it was prepped with solvent based wax & grease remover several times, set in the sun, prepped again, sanded with 80 grit, prepped again, then primed with epoxy primer, all with no issues or fish eye. I think the problem with fiberglass is the mold release imbedded in the gel coat. It seems to me that depending on what type of mold release was originally used, how old the gel coat is (most of the original mold release may have leached out from years in the sun and oxidized out) would determine the level of problems one would have when top coating with automotive clears. Many autos today have plastic bumpers and other parts which are difficult to paint due to the mold release issues.

    Clear coats are much more prone to fisheye than epoxy primer due to the solvents used in each and their chemical make-up. Even with through prepping, the solvents in the clear will leach out additional mold release causing a fisheye, even when using an additive fisheye preventer (silicone). I think I would try one area like the deck, throughly prep with solvent wax & grease remover, twice, scuff with red scotch bright or 600 grit wet, prep again, let set overnight, then spray one coat of clear, and check for fisheye after 30 min. If none I would feel comfortable doing the rest of the boat using the same prep approach. Two things to remember, if you sand thru the gel into the flake, there will be no way to repair that and will be visable forever, Second, a fisheye and solvent pop are two totally different things, caused by two totally different problems, and will look different, even to the naked eye.

    If you have fisheye after spraying the one coat, then if it were me, I would forget trying to preserve the flake and epoxy prime the entire boat and apply base/clear in whatever paint scheme you like. One additional note, I would NEVER EVER use fisheye eliminator in my spray booth or paint gun because of the problems the additive (silicone) will create from the contaminated gun and booth. In fact I would fire on the spot anyone I caught using it.

    Jim

  10. #25
    Is this Aarons boat?

  11. #26
    Yep this past saterday the motor started knocking and the #3 piston started to come apart but that's how it goes they have a 1/16 slack between the piston and cylinder who ever rebuilt that motor did a half ass job very surprised it ran as long as it did

  12. #27
    Is this Aaron or did you buy the boat from him?

  13. #28
    I'm sorry man yes this was aarons boat I went pick it up 2 weeks ago. What do you think I could use to make the old paint job shine for now the whole thing is going to get painted this winter but I'd like the color shine a bit for the rest of the summer

  14. #29
    If its oxidized real bad you can wet sand it with like 1500grit wet sand then compound it with a high speed buffer.Last time I saw the boat it had a few spots where someone sanded through the gelcoat,but it wasnt oxidized to bad.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by RobF View Post
    I never said it would peel, im saying it wont retain gloss.

    you shoot it with clear primer first. {{{{ SKIPPING }}}}}
    The purpose of primer is to not only adhere paint but to RETAIN gloss for years to come.
    Rob - what clear primer do you recommend?

    And to make this a two part question, there are times where I might want to clear in a decal or carbon fiber, so I would assume that clear primer followed by clear coat would be preferred; and then there are some parts of my project where I will want to blend in decals with paint, and show through the underlying carbon, so I will need some clear primer that I can tape over, spray my white, and then unmask and spray my clear. For something like (this)



    (Sorry to hi-jack the original posting) What would you recommend?
    Last edited by aalbert; 07-17-2011 at 12:26 PM.
    ---

    Mercury V6 FAQ http://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/
    1984 Mako 224 w/2000 Mercury 225 + Brucato + Heads + Computer Going On http://www.biggerhammer.net/mako/

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Frank Mole Transport