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Thread: NEW 300XS upgrades
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09-06-2011, 05:32 PM #76Member
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Do they sell the carbon intake alone or just in a kit ? If sep how much and how does it attach ?
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09-06-2011, 07:52 PM #77Member
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Cowling coming
Here are two bolt on vents Mike has helped us with.....Mike Nass is making us all a drop on xs x style with proper ram air like the 300x...Thanks Mike...These two are cheap fixes in the mean time. The toaster works better....the 2.5 style is better styling to me. They both help over stock. Mikes Carbon work is insane good. I cant wait for the cowling.I have seen the proto and it looks Factory.
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09-06-2011, 08:18 PM #78Member
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I'm confused , what is the lower pic ?
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09-06-2011, 09:13 PM #79Member
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an intake cover like a 2.5 drag..you run a large hole in the cowl and space the cover off the cowl for airflow..change the spacer more or less for noise and flow control...old school merc
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09-07-2011, 02:24 PM #80Member
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09-11-2011, 03:17 PM #815000 RPM
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Please let us know when it is available
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09-11-2011, 07:56 PM #82
I am ready to order my upgrade kit. I will call you tomorrow. Can't wait!!
Thanx.Cawley
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09-12-2011, 01:28 AM #83Member
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09-12-2011, 01:38 AM #84Member
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09-12-2011, 01:39 AM #85Member
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09-12-2011, 09:36 AM #86Member
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We have a template to mark stock cowl where to cut. There is a small rubber o seal that runs around perimeter of vent. looks very finished. You can cut the cowl wide open and ram the $%#^ out of it with air but the one pictured is a good balance of flow to noise gain witch is minor. The slots are 0ffset and the ram air is sent up to throttle body. When we just bolted a complete level one kit and a DCB 26 we saw an increase in 500 revs on the kitted engine..not bad. If you leave the cowl stock it doesn't perform as well as confirmed on the dyno. We do remove a bunch of the foam to get as much volume around the velocity stack
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09-12-2011, 09:39 AM #87Member
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09-12-2011, 09:43 AM #88Member
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slots in stock ...2.5 only 2 left but but building more now. Those are perfect black gel and inexpensive. Please call with questions.
Thanks,
Dave
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09-16-2011, 09:31 PM #89Junior Member
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By adding additional air flow to the cowl does that eliminate the vacuum at the rear of the cowl and eliminate the water being ingested? Also does hull type make a difference, the photos are taken of a tunnel type hull. I have a Stroker bass boat/300xs that I have run 97mph at 4350 ft elevation, not sure if I have the problem but I think so and should find out this weekend. Just wondering if I need to consider the scoops or toster type.
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09-17-2011, 08:48 AM #90
An easy way to find out if you have the problem or not is just make a WOT pass for a few minutes, stop, remove the cowling and take a look.... If its wet anywhere than yes, bone dry = your good. Im somewhat convinced that tunnels are more prone to the problem than V,s so you may be fine however letting that big motor breathe more is only going to help, DBR,s Dyno proved that!
But to answer your question, yes- if you force air in the front you will essentially turn off the SHOP VAC in the rear.
The number one problem with ANY water getting in the cowling is this- ONE drop of water on your TPS and your DONE. Motor goes into guardian mode (<2000 rpm ).
Which is why I made the video and sent it to MERCURY RACING. At first the video was private to try to give them the op to make it right.They chose to turn their heads so I made it public.
The motors performance is not really effected ( I never noticed any loss of power whatsoever ) UNTIL the TPS gets wet.
I found this out at the Jasper run last year... A small strategically place zip-loc taped over your TPS will cover you until you can get the proper fix. Sucks to have a zip loc taped onto a nice motor but being stuck out on the water sucks worse!!!