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  1. #1
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    Tiller arm breakage......?

    Where does it usually break at, and what causes it, (other than torque from the prop) ?
    JOHN MASON
    '83/VECTOR/MERC 200-- SOLD
    '98 Quartershot T-3/ MERC 200




    "If your not living on the edge, your taking up to much space"

  2. #2
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    from what i was told three to four inches back from the tip is where it breaks

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  3. #3
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    I have seen them crack and break at the top of the bend, where they attach to the tiller arm


    “Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established that, unless one loves the truth, he cannot know it.” – Blaise Pascal

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lanceonthelake View Post
    I have seen them crack and break at the top of the bend, where they attach to the tiller arm
    That is where I have seen them break, at the bend.

    "Confidence" is that wonderful feeling you had right before you fully understood your true situation.- Unknown
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  5. #5
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    I would have to think your equipment would have to be pretty FUBAR before the arm would just BREAK . I have seen some really rusted shiot on some boats and it scares me . I have a friends 300 X in the shop right now and the tiller arm looks like a RUST EXPERIMENT !!
    " The Fleet of Old Boats "

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  6. #6
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    i agree here tom
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Foley View Post
    I would have to think your equipment would have to be pretty FUBAR before the arm would just BREAK . I have seen some really rusted shiot on some boats and it scares me . I have a friends 300 X in the shop right now and the tiller arm looks like a RUST EXPERIMENT !!

    https://www.facebook.com/scott.steffe


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  7. #7
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    Are tiller arms typically cast or forged. The one on my motor needs some attention and I am thinking about beefing it up. The small arm on my 130 was never intended to do what I am doing to it. Thinking about welding a plate under it. I can see some grind marks down the sides making me think its cast. I guess the new ones for my motor are now stainless steel....and over $600 not to mention an entire tear down to get to it.

    I wonder how far you could move the bolt back and still have enough leverage for fairly easy steering? The shorter the arm, the less stress on it.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
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  8. #8
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    Time to make friends with someone at a shop that does electronic metal fatigue testing.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
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    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  9. #9
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    Mine broke right behind the bolt hole. I still have the pieces some where.

  10. #10
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    Have they ever "spun" at the point where the tube meets the cast part of the tiller arm?

    It looks like it is only crimped or stamped together at that point?

    I need to put my V brace back on.....and make some custom longer front studs and get a longer tiller arm "time bomb" bolt to make up for the extra thickness.

    I wonder if a tiller arm broke, if the V brace would flex really bad, or hold you enough to get slowed back down?
    JOHN MASON
    '83/VECTOR/MERC 200-- SOLD
    '98 Quartershot T-3/ MERC 200




    "If your not living on the edge, your taking up to much space"

  11. #11
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    Over the winter I had the bright idea to try and shorten a couple steering tubes by going at it from the spun weld end. I can say it is extremely unlikely that one would ever spin in the weld. If you have a fat tiller, the one that is about 3 inches wide I'd be more concerned about the bolts that hold the rest of the operation together. The best way to go about an easy life for your steering system is to work on your prop and skeg set up to minimize steering torque, and be sure the geometry of your steering is'nt all gimped up. I had a few faster boats I refused to even change the spark plugs or put water pumps in until the steering was straightened out.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    Over the winter I had the bright idea to try and shorten a couple steering tubes by going at it from the spun weld end. I can say it is extremely unlikely that one would ever spin in the weld. If you have a fat tiller, the one that is about 3 inches wide I'd be more concerned about the bolts that hold the rest of the operation together. The best way to go about an easy life for your steering system is to work on your prop and skeg set up to minimize steering torque, and be sure the geometry of your steering is'nt all gimped up. I had a few faster boats I refused to even change the spark plugs or put water pumps in until the steering was straightened out.
    and keep saying that!

  13. #13
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    parker has a video on his facebook page where the tiller broke,was not pretty.Plus I didn't get to see the end to see if the guy was ok

  14. #14
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    Most of the tiller arms I've seen break are the smaller stock ones on the earlier Merc V6s. I would definitely not be using one of those on a performance boat. Also, what Capt. says - very true!


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    Over the winter I had the bright idea to try and shorten a couple steering tubes by going at it from the spun weld end. I can say it is extremely unlikely that one would ever spin in the weld. If you have a fat tiller, the one that is about 3 inches wide I'd be more concerned about the bolts that hold the rest of the operation together. The best way to go about an easy life for your steering system is to work on your prop and skeg set up to minimize steering torque, and be sure the geometry of your steering is'nt all gimped up. I had a few faster boats I refused to even change the spark plugs or put water pumps in until the steering was straightened out.
    I'm all over this, and want to do it, but here's the thing: I have hydraulic steering. How the h--- do I tell how much torque is in my steering? I'm aiming for having minimal torque at high transom/trim/speeds. Seeing Campbells vid... Man. I want to make sure that at the highest speed I will be traveling (presently about 73 mph, more to be had) I have the least amount of actual steering torque.

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