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  1. #16
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    if the deck is flimsy, the wood in the dash may be rotted, I replaced all the wood in my boat and put a support under the deck for those who insisted on walking on it
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by flabum1017 View Post
    if the deck is flimsy, the wood in the dash may be rotted, I replaced all the wood in my boat and put a support under the deck for those who insisted on walking on it
    Yep, as that under the deck wood has been sucking moisture for almost 40 years..just rework it..now biggie..

  3. #18
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    Heres some more, off my stored doc's, the work, my Merc...done by one of the best IL6 Merc Gurus's known, the famous Dr. Frankenmerc!

    This off my Merc builder, might be of..(duh!), interest to ya. He has not got back to me with what prop, the Baha, could spin. Anyway, this stuff, in my saved files..hope this helps ya out. Robby

    The powerhead I am building for you was originally a '72 1150.

    The '72 1150 .(.Edit me, I think he meant 71 year, here)..is a choked down 1350 with a few flow restrictions to give the lower HP rating so Merc wouldn't have to come up with a different powerhead to fill that HP range for the consumer market.

    Initially this 1150 needed a rebuild because the inner water jacket had cracked and let water into #3 which was trying to die when I rescued the beast. It still had 95 psi on #3, but the rings had started to seize and consequently had scored the bore.
    I had #3 bored .015 and installed a new piston there.

    I had all holes pro-honed while I was at it and mic'd for roundness, etc to insure the beast was still within factory tolerences.

    The block surfaces were machined too to insure everything was flat in the water jacket areas for a correct sealing.

    All other pistons were carefully inspected, mic'd, & cleaned. I replaced one standard size piston too, but (4) of the (6) original pistons went back into their original holes.

    Everybody got brand new rings & needle bearings.

    The crankshaft got new main bearings.

    The end caps got new seals & so did the crankcase.

    I installed 1500 reed blocks and reeds, which meausre out the same as the original 1350 reeds.

    I am installing '72 1400 carburetors - which are virtually identical to the original 1350 carbs & I am installing the original .0785main jets required for the 1350 at sea level.

    The exhaust tuner plate and inner water jacket are both NOS 1350 parts that I had machined to insure they too are flat so they will seal correctly.

    These modifications: Main jets, reed blocks, tuner & inner wj complete the conversion of the 1150 to a true 1350.

    The only difference between the 1350 and the 1400 blocks is the 1350 had an oval tuner to the mid-section and the 1400 had the dual square port tuner to the mid-section. And,...The inner wj & tuner plate configuration changed barely.




    There were some early ('70-'71) 1150 Mercs that were exactly that - choked down 1350 Mercs. They had the same port sizes, but used .066 main jets compared to the 1350's .0785 mains and the reed stops in the 1150 were very low while the 1350 reed stops allowed the reeds to open much further.
    I think it was in 1972 the block casting changed and the 1350 was discontinued.
    In its place was the early 1400 which lead to the first 1500 in '73.

    (More, prop stuff)

    And,...An early 1150 would probably turn a 13.5 X 17p aluminum real nice on a 16 ft (15'8") Tahiti or SideWinder.
    Then,..The '72 - '80, maybe '82 1150/115 would probably turn a 13.5 X 18 maybe 19p aluminum 3 blade on the same hull.
    Then,..The '83-'88 115 inline-6,...(which was actually very similar to the last 140hp, but marketed as a 115 due to hp rating changes and the fact that Mercury didn't want 'yesterday's inline-6 at 140 hp competing with its new line of v6 135 & 150 hp Mercs),...would probably turn a 13.5 X 19-21p aluminum 3 blade or if lifted a bit would easily turn a 14X22p or 24p small ear surfacing chopper stainless.
    We run a 14 X 22p small ear surfacing chopper on momma's 15'8" SideWinder cloned 'Pleasurecraft'.
    The same set up with a 24" s/c will go 4 MPH faster, but takes a while to get there.
    The 22p s/c will run right up to 57-58 MPH and WOT at 5900 rpm, where the 24p runs 63-64 MPH at 5600 rpm but it needs about 1000 extra feet to obtain WOT.
    Last edited by Robby321; 03-08-2011 at 10:47 PM.

  4. #19
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    You can see the rebuild pics I did on my boat here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id...24&aid=2037822
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  5. #20
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    'bum, my 16' clone does not have any core, that i know of. just a single, wide stringer up the middle. you redid yours... are you sure it had core?


    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  6. #21
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    Dunno where we going here, but heres some pix, my Flatty, Bottom like a rock,two stringers, well knee braced rear, solid azz end, deck is zero flex either to walk on, hook the dock!..if it would float it, I"d toss a big V-6 on it....(always ..me.."NO EXTRA DOUGH..at the moment anyway, as I know I'm still "nusto", on speed!, and as still "knuckle Dragging earth, at 60, I ALWAYS find .."the dough!")

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Robby321; 03-09-2011 at 04:21 PM.

  7. #22
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    Wow flabum, that's a resto for sure. The dash wood on mine is solid and no rot at all. It appears that the bow is just loaded with foam and has a wall about 18 inches from edge of dash that doesn't go all the way to the top deck. :-/ Thought bout running it up and resining it to the deck to join the two in hope of some stiffness.?! Now that all the interior has been gutted, the entire top deck is shakey. I will attempt to post photos at my earliest chance. Even photos of the merc 1500 l6 for robby.

  8. #23
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    But today I cut new wood all interior to be wrapped and picking carpet to install this weekend. Last major catastrophe to deal with is the rotted material that runs front to back on each side. Any DIY ers out there with any tips for fixing it replacing that area?

  9. #24
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    Gregpro: I will post serial number in the a.m. Hull is a 77 model but not sure of motor. It's badges as a 1500 and its a l6.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by taz081581 View Post
    But today I cut new wood all interior to be wrapped and picking carpet to install this weekend. Last major catastrophe to deal with is the rotted material that runs front to back on each side. Any DIY ers out there with any tips for fixing it replacing that area?
    Dude, take some pics, then/or.. post in the"fiberglass/composite" forum.....(or keep here for now, as double posts, same boat, get all freaked up, diff people..keep here for now, stick the thread here..
    Last edited by Robby321; 03-09-2011 at 01:16 AM.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by taz081581 View Post
    Gregpro: I will post serial number in the a.m. Hull is a 77 model but not sure of motor. It's badges as a 1500 and its a l6.
    The wrap, and face plate, all fit a zillion old IL6's... means zip...get a block #..

  12. #27
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    in hindsight, i'r stay away from carpet if I did it again..... I'd go with a rubber floor or non-slip paint on my next build. It's a pain keeping the carpet clean an dry.....
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  13. #28
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    Ok guys. Trim pump issues. Couldn't get it singing in the boat so I pulled and am trying to bench test it and still no nothing. Any tips or suggestions? The boat belonged to a friend and I had trouble shot before. Now the boat is mine and im having issues. Thanks guys.

  14. #29
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    Does it click when you push your buttons? IF so you probably have a bad cylinoid. Conrad
    L6fan57-88

  15. #30
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    Milkdud: nothing at all. With pump out and directly hooked to battery, no clicks, sparks or noises of any kind. Looks like an electric motor so maybe stuck brushes or bad ground?? With pump out, is there any way to run a jumper to test? Thank you for your response.

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