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  1. #16
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    Ok, with it idling on the water hose the timing is at 3* I popped the timing linkage off the throttle arm and advanced it all the way to the full throttle stop was 27* so total timing is 27* at idle speed.

  2. #17
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    You can't do it that way.

    The timing will grow as it increases RPMs. You have to set it at 4500 to 5000 rpms with a test wheel or strapped down really well to the trailer.

    Move the throttle arm, the timerbase should move first. Then the throttle cam will contact the roller on the carb linkage (as said, sometimes with age these will fall off).

    A link and sync proceedure is in a manual. If you don't have one, get one, preferably OMC (check eBay).

  3. #18
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    Link and synch is out, Perform a link and synch procedure, this will definately wake it up, also if this does not do the trick, you are looking at blow-by problems and possibly bad reeds

  4. #19
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    The specific idle timing degrees is relatively unimportant. All engines will vary, depending on setup and how deep the engine is in the water-when floating on a specific boat. The idle needs to be set to a specific rpm (650-750) when in gear, floating at normal level in the lake. If the idle rpm it is too low, you can have issues with the throttle up.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy View Post
    The timing will grow as it increases RPMs. You have to set it at 4500 to 5000 rpms with a test wheel or strapped down really well to the trailer.

    Move the throttle arm, the timerbase should move first. Then the throttle cam will contact the roller on the carb linkage (as said, sometimes with age these will fall off).

    A link and sync proceedure is in a manual. If you don't have one, get one, preferably OMC (check eBay).
    I've got a clymer manual and did the carb. Link adjustment as instructed.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rukkus View Post
    Link and synch is out, Perform a link and synch procedure, this will definately wake it up, also if this does not do the trick, you are looking at blow-by problems and possibly bad reeds
    I looked at the reeds when I had the carbs off for cleaning everything looked good.

  7. #22
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    Just did a comp. Test #1-87psi, #3-90psi, #5-85psi, #2-82psi, #4-80psi, #6-82psi, don't have a leakdown tester so I can't check that yet.

  8. #23
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    Floats should be level with the gasket surface whn the carb is held up-side down with no pressure on the float
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  9. #24
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    Checking the max timing on this engine should be done at 5000 rpm. Not an easy task. You can check the max timing by disconnecting the link arm (spark advance rod) between the timer base and the throttle advance lever. When idling, you can momentarily advance the timer base arm to the max stop and check the timing on both #1 and #2 cyls. Keep in mind that the ignition system on this engine will read max timing about 4 degrees lower at idle that it will actually be when you are running at 5000 rpm.

  10. #25
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    If you have done all the above and you are sure carbs and linkage is right then you have a air leak. Crossflows leak between the intake and crankcase between cylinders. (not to the outside) So remove intake and reed cages and surface intake on a piece of thick glass with 120 grit sandpaper and you will see if it is warped or not. Then check the crankcase also. They all warp here. Because of the thin area between cyls this has to be right.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by perfmarine1 View Post
    If you have done all the above and you are sure carbs and linkage is right then you have a air leak. Crossflows leak between the intake and crankcase between cylinders. (not to the outside) So remove intake and reed cages and surface intake on a piece of thick glass with 120 grit sandpaper and you will see if it is warped or not. Then check the crankcase also. They all warp here. Because of the thin area between cyls this has to be right.
    I've been leaning towards a vacume leak but that makes since ill check that next.

  12. #27
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    So what should I set my max timing at?

  13. #28
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    Did you check the recirculation hoses and valves?

    Quote Originally Posted by wanagofass View Post
    I've been leaning towards a vacume leak but that makes since ill check that next.

  14. #29
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    Couldn't find a vacuum leak but im not sure how to check the valves

  15. #30
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    The are one way valves. Easy to check. Air will pass one way and not the other.

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