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Thread: Idle screws setting
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01-20-2011, 12:10 PM #1
Idle screws setting
anyone know what the initial idle screw setting is on a Evinrude 1996 175 60* looper?
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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01-20-2011, 03:06 PM #2
Hope this helps!
Idle screw settings.pdfJames Perry
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01-20-2011, 03:19 PM #3
Thanks..... very helpful.
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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01-20-2011, 06:57 PM #45000 RPM
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That chart is not factory and is not totally accurate.
Your '96 175 idle screws work best at 5 to 6 turns out. Make sure your thermostats are working so the cylinderheads warm up to around 140° plus or minus about 10°
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01-20-2011, 07:45 PM #5
Don't adj if your running on a hose, adj when boat is in water as it would be at idle. Adj on the hose it will be rich in the water.
Dave1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
RIP Stu
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01-20-2011, 07:57 PM #6
I always do mine in water, at idle in gear. Tie it to dock and take your time. As already said make sure and bring to temp first. On my late model 200/225/250 3.0 loopers I can get them nearly smoke free adjusting this way.
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01-20-2011, 10:26 PM #7
I've got them out to about 7 turns now, but am chasing down a no-bang problem. It is not hitting on 2 cylinders, has good spark, new plugs. Am going to pull the carbs tomorrow and clean/re-set the floats.....
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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01-21-2011, 08:55 AM #8
Also, on the throttle plate there is a cover on the side where you have a "mixing pot" where the air/fuel goes past the needle hole and behind the butterfly . I have delt with a few that will get varnish in there and have idle issues so your problem may not be in the carb body but in the throttle plate.
I had been told there was a TSB to back out the idle screws 2 rounds and advance the idle timing 2* (leak max timing alone) for a hot soak bogg. Done a bunch like that and has repaired the problems. If you do that then you are at 6 rounds out. Just my .02.James Perry
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01-21-2011, 12:24 PM #9
I've rebuilt a million of these plasic carbs on the 90* loopers, and a few on these 60* loopers. This one turned out to be a problem with the OEM rebuild kits, the needles and seats protrude more than the originals and the floats are slightly different in the hinge are that caused the floats to be lower than they should be. I had set them level like they should be, but the fuel level in the bowls were lower due to gthe differences. Some bending got the floats to where they need to be and now it runs perfect (except for that 80 PSI cylinder).......... Thanks for all your help
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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01-21-2011, 05:45 PM #105000 RPM
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You do know that the white gasket washer is not used under the seats for the float valves, right? If you installed them, that may be why the float levels were way off.
What part number carb repair kit did you use?
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01-21-2011, 06:21 PM #11
Yes I know not to use that washer, I worked for a Evinrude dealer for 10 years, went to all the classes etc.... was 2 points awat from getting the master tech award, I quit just before the 60^ loopers came out and have been working on sterndrives, inboards and diesels ever since.I work on an outboard about once a month now so am a little rusty,
It was the correct carb kit for the motor,"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .