Late Model GM Engine - Pros & Cons

[biohzrd]

One other thing to remember is that the bolt pattern for the bell housings are the same. Just one bolt missing on the LSx blocks. You will more than likely have to get a spacer for the flexplate, but they are around and no big thing to install. Not very exspensive either. If the new boat I am getting was still I/O I would be swapping in a LSx for sure.

[DanielC]

PCM also uses a water to water heat exchanger when they put a 6.0 Liter block in a boat.

[willysnut1959]

Thanks for the advice on heat exchanger. I'll start my search.

Are you talking about drilling new holes in the head or manifold? I assume you transfer the 351C bolt pattern to the LS gasket them drill from the gasket? It's hard to believe that I won't need an adapter plate or blend manifold port to head.

Carykard, Are you interested in selling a set of your aluminum manifolds?

[biohzrd]

You really don't. The bore spacing is almost exact, and any difference in the manifold side will be negligable. The mustang guys that are swapping ls motors have been using headers like this for years. the only thing they are doing is swapping out the flange from a ford style to an lsx style. that may even be an option if it is not a cast style manifold. Just buy yourself some flanges and weld them on.

[carykard]

Here is a pic of the exchanger you are looking for:

I don't want to sell my other exhaust but the closest one if your going to make a spacer is the BBC or SBF, both could be made to work pretty easy. The SBF lines up real good but has oval ports instead of round, I have a set of them to that i experimented with. The holes are drilled into the head and tapped if you are using 351C exhaust.

[njj502]

Here's what the 351C manifold looks like with a LSx gasket.

[willysnut1959]

I've got to find me a set of aluminum 351C manifold where I could weld on an adapter plate instead of having to bolt the flange to the head and then bolting the manifold to the the flange. Then it would be aluminum to aluminum to aluminum. That manifold comes a lot closer to matching than I thought it would. I have a LS1 flywheel and U-joint from as Olds jet. I can re-drill the Olds pattern onto the flywheel. I need to find a SBC or BBC bellhousing as the one I have is for an Olds.

I assume you want the motor forward because is V-drive, whereas mine would run better set back.

[carykard]

If you use 351C manifolds you don't need an adapter plate, just drill and tap a couple holes in the head and your done. I will post a couple pics of my heads when I get home tonight. If you can't find 351C use SBF you could make them fit and they're plentiful.

[finiata]

Wow, I need to pay more attention. I'm doing this also, and need some 351c manifolds if anyone has some extras I have an 02' LS1 block and my plan is to build it for boost. I bought carykards heat exchanger (thanks again). My boat is a 23fter so its going to need decent power. That said, the gen3/4 engine are putting out bbc numbers so I'm not really worried. I'm going to run the d1sc procharger and a water/air intercooler. I'm running an inline pump and a line back to one side, I'll be adding a line between both take tanks to equalize them.

[thompy]

i believe it was wasted income that was using one of the vette fuel pumps, that did away with running a fuel return to the tank with the fuel injection system, sound like the vette pumps dont go in the tank, the return is at the pump

[willysnut1959]

I have a lead on another set of 351C marine exhaust manifolds. The seller doesn't remember if they are cast iron or aluminum. If they're aluminum. I'm going to latch onto them, in which case, my cast iron set is for sale. If they are cast iron, and you're interested, I've give you the seller's name and phone number.

I have a new lead on a complete LQ4 6.0L motor out of a 2005 truck, with supposedly 58,000 miles, for $1450. I'm going to go look at it this weekend to see what all is included. I'm thinking this is the one.

finiata,
If you are going to add a centrifical blower, do you need to replace pistons with forged units or lower the compression? Are you changing pistons or heads? What heads do you have? Are you using the stock fuel injection? What engine upgrades do you intend to make? What size boat are you putting it in?

[willysnut1959]

How do we get "WastedIncome" to comment on this thread? I'd like to hear what he has to add.

[njj502]

Yell really loud! JEEFFFFFFF get your LSx lovin ass over here. I'll PM him.

[finiata]

Yah definetely let me know on the manifolds. Have you checked car-part for your motor? Hit some of them up and talkem down You can get them down and get them to throw extra crap in if you're cool about it. I going to pick an aluminum 5.3 tomorrow for 600 bucks. 799 heads (better than the 243's), best stock rods, and aluminum You don't have to a point, I'm looking for 550ish and thats attainable stock. I'll be running said truck rods, stock crank and forged pistons. Will be running 799 heads on this build also. Yes to the stock fuel injection, just larger injectors. No other upgrades to speak of.

[willysnut1959]

I have also found numerous 5.3 L engines on the cheap ($500), but would rather pay more for the LS ,5.7 L or LQ4,6.0L. The most important to me is that I buy everything from the same vehicle that it takes to make the engine run. That is engine, accessories, ignition coils, complete and uncut wiring system including computer, fuse boxes, complete fuel system including tank and fuel pump. I'm even considering mounting the donor vehicle's dash guages in the boat. I was looking into buying wrecked trucks from Coparts.com, but since I only need the engine, I'm finding that is a more expensive route.

I 've heard that early motors did not have "windows" in the block webs and that caused air flow problems at high rpm. When was that problem cured? I also heard that the main and rod bearings were strengthen somewhere along the line, but again don't know which blocks were improved. Would a 6.0L engine from a 2005 truck be a good choice?