Mercury 200 XRi

**HavasuDreamin'** · 03-01-2010, 02:57 PM

Didn't get a lot of feedback last year, so I will ask again before taking to a dealer.

I have a '92 Mercury 200 XRi on the back of a 21' Ultra LX (family truckster). I bought the boat in March 2008 and have been dealing with this problem from the get go. It seems like it is now occuring more frequently though, so it needs to be addressed.

Idles fine. Drop the hammer and some of the time the boat will not roll over on plane....it will hit about 2,500 rpm and not go any higher. This is with the throttle on the floor.

Back down to idle and everything is fine. Try to pop it again and it leaps out of the hole like there was never an issue.

Late last year, a second problem surfaced that I think relates to the first problem. Sometimes after it actually gets on plane, rpm's fall off and then pick back up, then fall off, then pick back up.....sort of like it is cutting in and out as I head down the lake. This is at the typical cruise speed between 3,000 - 3,200 rpm.

Here is what I know:
#1 - intermittent problems suck.
#2 - I don't have a trusted dealer near me, so I would rather have a diagnosis from S&F (trusted source) before I roll the dice with a mechanic I don't know.

My uneducated thought and what was mentioned last year is the Stator. Can the issue be determined with typical diagnostic equipment?

Any guesses or advice would be greatly appreciated.

**shooter1** · 03-01-2010, 04:14 PM

I had the same thing happen to a '92 200 XRI with the same symtoms and I changed the stator, the switchboxes, and as a last resort I checked and adjusted the TPS and that fixed the problem. So I would check the stator and adjust the TPS first.

Shooter1

**jcfreak** · 03-01-2010, 07:19 PM

Also check the fuel pump. I mean run it and make sure you are getting clean fuel into and out of the fuel pump. Dad went thru 2 last year. Had 2 brand news die. The last one was spitting rubber and plastic out as soon as it was installed. We had fuel filters on each side of the pump to find where the crap was coming from. Very similar symptoms.

**HavasuDreamin'** · 03-01-2010, 07:31 PM

I believe the fuel pump is fine. I removed the oil injection last year and subsequently had to drain the gas out to pre-mix and then put back in. I used the electric fuel pump to drain the fuel. The electric fuel pump was pushing clean fuel. The one thing I did notice is that it would run for about 60 seconds and then shut off. Not sure if there mechanism that shuts it off under free flowing conditions or what, but I thought it was strange. My old Holley Blue on my Daytona would free flow for hours.

Originally Posted by jcfreak

Also check the fuel pump. I mean run it and make sure you are getting clean fuel into and out of the fuel pump. Dad went thru 2 last year. Had 2 brand news die. The last one was spitting rubber and plastic out as soon as it was installed. We had fuel filters on each side of the pump to find where the crap was coming from. Very similar symptoms.

**shooter1** · 03-01-2010, 10:24 PM

The fuel pump in the VST is only supposed to run for about 45 seconds until the switchboxes fire. That should be right.

Shooter1

**The Big Al** · 03-01-2010, 10:53 PM

You have 2 fuel pumps on a XRI, The standard fuel pump on the side of the block that fills the EFI system then you have a EFI electric pump.

The most common problem with this situation is the fuel line & pump bulb between the engine and tank, second is the primary crankcase fuel pump. (not the electric pump)

Stay away from the TPI for now.

This is a sure sign of the basic fuel supply, not associated with the EFI.

IMO
Al

**mrcrsr** · 03-02-2010, 06:54 AM

Originally Posted by The Big Al

You have 2 fuel pumps on a XRI, The standard fuel pump on the side of the block that fills the EFI system then you have a EFI electric pump.

The most common problem with this situation is the fuel line & pump bulb between the engine and tank, second is the primary crankcase fuel pump. (not the electric pump)

Stay away from the TPI for now.

This is a sure sign of the basic fuel supply, not associated with the EFI.

IMO
Al

or the hi speed stator, ck the stator ground on the electrics plate and the blue/red wires on the switchboxes that the connections are good, and also, possibly a dead spot on the tps, that can be ck'd by disconnecting the tps and using an ohmeter between the wires on the tps, w/ the meter connected gradually advance the throttle, see if the meter at any point opens or goes erratic while your moving the throttle

**captglm** · 03-02-2010, 07:32 PM

Just my opinion---Save yourself a lot of time and guess work. take it to a dealer who has a diagnostic tank. they're not that expensive to dyno test. they will attach gauges to tell you if its electrical or Fuel. They can also put it under a load to simulate everything you said.

**HavasuDreamin'** · 03-02-2010, 08:03 PM

I agree. Problem is finding an actual mechanic who will really get into it as apposed to a parts changer. Haven't had much luck in Indianapolis. There is a big dealer primarily of new boats that I am going to go down and talk to face to face this Friday.

Originally Posted by captglm

Just my opinion---Save yourself a lot of time and guess work. take it to a dealer who has a diagnostic tank. they're not that expensive to dyno test. they will attach gauges to tell you if its electrical or Fuel. They can also put it under a load to simulate everything you said.

**eggsuckindog_** · 03-03-2010, 07:04 PM

This may sound very simplistic but its easy and cheap to try - I have the same motor and when purchased had been sitting - water test 2000RPM would cut off like the key was turned every time. Ended up buying it and still wanted to drop RPM at 3400 if I applied throttle after it was gone thru - its easy to try but yours sounds like mine did - stator would be my second call but that can be tested I'm pretty sure.

Try some Evinrude Fuel System CLEANER, make sure its the right stuff - use it on deposit removal ratio - intially mine took 2 cans and 3 days got better and better then never missed a beat for 2 yrs - got a little sluggish to get up, another can and within 30 minutes was fine again - just say'in

**HavasuDreamin'** · 03-03-2010, 09:38 PM

Al, your reply makes sense and the rebuild kit is cheap. I think I am going to try that first.

Thanks to all.

**eggsuckindog_** · 03-04-2010, 12:16 AM

Al does have a good scenario

**87action19** · 03-10-2010, 08:28 PM

After you have exausted yourself playing with this motor, and you have eliminated all fuel problems, please take it to someone that knows Merc's. Don't be surprised if the Mechanic tells you might need a ECU. These are known to go bad. I have changed a few out myself, and let me tell ya-it's a lot of fun diagnosing. They have a problem with the Map (manifold absolute pressure) circuit going bad. They can't be repaired. You will have to try out someone else's. Like I said they are a lot of fun to diagnose!!!!!

**22R** · 04-12-2010, 01:07 PM

My Dad has a 1993 XRI 150 that has the same exact symptoms. Have you found out anything yet ?

Thanks,
22R

**HavasuDreamin'** · 08-10-2010, 05:34 PM

Okay........back to the top. All fuel lines re-done. Rebuild kit on lift pump. New fuel filters. Removed the quick disconnect from the fuel line. 99% of the time, the issue is after a long idle (usually when we drop in for the day and I have to go dump the trailer). This past weekend, it ran perfect on day 1, then on day 2 and day 3, right after dropping in, wouldn't plane. Bring it back down, rev it in neutral for a minute, then pop it on plane. No issues the rest of the day. I am 99% sure it is the fuel delivery system associated with this engine.......which is probably why they only made this engine in '92 and '93.

I am done screwing around now. Problem is I don't have a mechanic I TRUST within reasonable distance of me. Can a Pro Max or 2.5L EFI fuel delivery system replace the XRi fuel delivery system? Can't I just put an electric fuel pump on from one of those motors that will feed the injectors directly from the tank with the proper PSI as apposed to going through the whole lift pump, to canister to electric fuel pump design.

Maybe I am overly simplistic, but this fuel delivery system SUCKS!!!!!!

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