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  1. #1
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    How to install solid mounts/ BP cowling?

    Sounds like dumb question but........here go's.

    1.) Solids....Pull powerhead, access and unbolt stock top mounts (does this typically require heat?)
    2.) Is it necessary to completely remove the midsection to get the new solids on or can they be done one set at a time?
    3.) Do I use the old bolts or buy new & if so what type & grade?
    4.) Just stick 'em on and bolt 'em up? That's it?
    5.) Torque setting on bolts?
    Any surprises I need to watch for?

    BP Cowling?
    Changing from stock '89 bucket cowling to BP cowling.
    1.) Remove old cowling
    2.) Pull powerhead
    3.) Install new gasket on midsection (Dry or with schmutz?)
    4.) Install pan
    5.) Install powerhead gasket (Dry or with schmutz?)
    6.) Install powerhead
    Any surprises I need to watch for?

    Thanks all.........
    B.MAC
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mvc-129f.jpg  
    Last edited by B.Mac; 09-25-2002 at 02:10 PM.
    Jesusfreak of the
    Sunshine Syndicate
    http://www.harvesthousejax.org
    Check out my cool Church family at: http://mybridgechurch.ning.com/

  2. #2
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    Jul 2002
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    Motor Mounts

    When I did mine, I didn't need any heat to get it apart. Just removed powerhead and un bolted old mounts and installed new solid mounts with neverseize on the bolts. I just tightened them up hand tight and didn't use a torque wrench. Pretty much straight foward. Did the same for the lowers too. As for the cowling, you pretty much have that down. I installed my gaskets dry with no sealer but i'm sure someone else will say they used it.

    ------------'82 Vector - Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport "MOD"
    "Life is short - Get there fast...MERCURY"

  3. #3
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    I forgot to say.....

    I used my old bolts because they looked OK with no pitting in them. If yours are pitted I would replace them with a grade 5 or higher. You do not need to remove your down housing to replace either set of mounts.

    ------------'82 Vector - Mercury 2.4 Bridgeport "MOD"
    "Life is short - Get there fast...MERCURY"

  4. #4
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    cowling

    BMac, i just did that on a 2.5 200. dont know about yours, but i had to change some things around on the back of the motor to make it fit. trim solenoids had to be moved beside the starter and mounted the coils next to the block. i have never heard of this, but i had to change 6 of the short powerhead studs. i could only get the nuts about halfway on because of the pan and extra gasket. luckily they came right out. i wasted 2 gaskets because of this. if you run 2 telltales, i would like to know how you route your hoses. steven
    Last edited by Steven; 09-25-2002 at 09:06 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    B&WB did an article on installing solid mounts in the latest issue.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario ,Canada
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    I put my solid mounts in backwards the first time and the downhousing would hit the transom brackets when cranked all the way to the left or right.
    I found that you have to put the long ends of the mounts foreward. My mounts were Bobs, by the way.
    Some one here had said to install the top ones opposite the bottom ones, that DOES NOT work without the flex of the rubber. (I tried)..............
    The rubber ones DO go opposite each other though. Thats because the lower mounts are getting pushed foreward and the uppers are getting pulled aft.
    I'll be doing the same cowl swap shortly, thanks for the heads-up on the studs.

    Burke
    Hydro Burke
    AE-21
    330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
    Seebold F1 race boat

  7. #7
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    Unhappy Hey Steven.......

    Please don't tell me 'yer mota was set up like this? Tell me I gotta move all this stuff around now???
    B.MAC
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mvc-574l.jpg  
    Jesusfreak of the
    Sunshine Syndicate
    http://www.harvesthousejax.org
    Check out my cool Church family at: http://mybridgechurch.ning.com/

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    cowl

    BMac, mine looks the same as yours. im almost certain you will have to change some things around. its not a problem and its easy to do. you may want to go ahead and put on your pan first, then you will see where the problem is. all i did was on my coil mounting bracket was to take out the spacers in between it and the block and mount it closer to the block. i moved the trim solenoids to the right side of the starter. i will post some pics of the trim. steven

  9. #9
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    Wink Powerhead studs.....

    Instead of using the standard nuts, buy some thin ones like used on the front two studs on an in-line. I bought mine at Lowe's, and yes, they are stainless.
    Dave
    Have you ever stopped to think............and forget to start again?

  10. #10
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    cowl

    BMac, heres a couple pics. i dont see your rectifiers in the same place as mine. might make a difference but i dont think so. Superdave brought up a good point on the thinner nuts for the powerhead studs. i tried them but they still would not work on mine. steven

  11. #11
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    back

  12. #12
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    rectifiers

    your right about that, they were behind the coil mounting plate. the only thing i dont like is no. 3 spark plug is real close to the coil. its working so far, you may have a better way to make it clear. i went to the auto parts store and got the studs. yours may work with thinner nuts though. i got some gaskets from rick and they were sticky on one side, once you set the powerhead on they may come apart if you remove it. the trim wires from the pump will have to be delt with too. i drilled a hole a little behind the starter and went through there. steven

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