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Thread: R/C helicopters

  1. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydroo View Post
    Thanks guys after seeing this thread in the AM, I went out and bought an MSR. Now I need six more 150 AMP batteries. Greg what are your local hobbie shop prices?
    One of my 120s called it quits. Supposedly when the chopper starts blinking set it down and dont try to take off again just charge it. Im guessing thats what caused the demise of my battery. You will love the chopper its a blast and very durable.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  2. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyro View Post
    They're supposed to be level, but if you pitch them up 10 or 15 degrees to match the rotor blades, it will hover easier with better stability.

    The downside of angling the paddles is that it will slightly limit cyclic authority. When you graduate to flying outdoors in a slight breeze, you'll want to put them back level again. The Falcon 40 will have MUCH slower, delayed cyclic response that you've enjoyed with the mSR. You'll need to learn to stay a step ahead of it, much like driving a pad-vee bottom. !
    Thanks Chad, I appreciate it. I got the Falcon 40 to use mainly outdoors, and since its very cheap and easy to repair, no worries if (when) I crash it.

    Quote Originally Posted by hydroo View Post
    Thanks guys after seeing this thread in the AM, I went out and bought an MSR. Now I need six more 150 AMP batteries. Greg what are your local hobbie shop prices?
    I think I paid $8 for the 130mAh batteries, but I'm not sure about the 150s. They're all really cheap though


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  3. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyro View Post
    I thought about it too, but they weigh more, and will likely change the COG and require some re-trimming. It will generally fly easier with less on-board weight.
    I would strongly recommending getting a couple more 120's from the hobby shop. Then you'll have 4 lipo's for the 4 jacks on the charger. If you have one battery cooling off (yes, let it sit 5 min before charging), two on the charger, and one on the heli, you should be able to fly continuously by cycling the batteries.
    Don't make a habit out of running them down to the cut-off (blinking light, power reduction), as it supposedly reduces long-term battery life.
    Heres what I was told. So i haven't bought any 150s but i wish i had another charger and 5 more 120s
    Last edited by baja200merk; 02-19-2010 at 01:42 AM.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  4. #274
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    150's will make it fly differently because of the weight.

    The guys on RCgroups always rave about the Hyperion 130 Lipo packs, but they're hard to find. Someone sent me a link to a store in Japan the last time they were available, I've got a set of 4 on the way...
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  5. #275
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    Well let us know how they work out. If I was good at flyin I would just try a 150 but Im not good enough to change anything yet. I wanna be completely comfortable with it before I complicate anything.

    Keep us posted chad, thanks
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  6. #276
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    Well let us know how they work out. If I was good at flyin I would just try a 150 but Im not good enough to change anything yet. I wanna be completely comfortable with it before I complicate anything.

    Keep us posted chad, thanks
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  7. #277
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    Have you guys checked hobbyking.com for batteries. They have some great deals on batteries....
    Ian

    ...boatless for now.

  8. #278
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    VERY rough Falcon 40 flight. Tail caught a gust at 20 seconds while I was making a smooth turn, got it back under control, then the motor cut out for a second for no apparent reason. I spent the remainder of the video getting it back under control with variable winds. The first 20 seconds and the last 20 seconds I was having a great time.

    <object width="640" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TyP_6NSluEI&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TyP_6NSluEI&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>
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  9. #279
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    Here's another Falcon 40 on-board video with two crashes, the second one crashing into my own house. I chopped the throttle when I lost it, but I hit the end of the flybar paddle squarely on the concrete foundation and broke the CF rod and the flybar pivot ring. Dammit! Time to order parts, fix this one up and sell it. The blades are no longer available from any source, and I only have one spare set left...

    <object width="640" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MABpPYjKkuk&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MABpPYjKkuk&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>
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  10. #280
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    It may not be a real helicopter, but it might be the future of drones. I can't believe how fast this thing is. MartyD



    http://vimeo.com/6194911

  11. #281
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    Added clear canopy and LED lights today...

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  12. #282
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    Photos of my custom Micro Tiny Bright Lights installation...





    The tail LED is a double-strobe like the real thing: blink-blink....... blink-blink.......


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  13. #283
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    Chad, that looks fantastic. Very cool mod work there.

    By the way, I flew my MSR today for the first time other than just hovering it. No issues at all, and I loved it. Looks like my MCX is retired now.


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  14. #284
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    You'll have a blast with the mSR. For Kevin, Forkin', and anyone else looking for more, here's my own personal guide to maximizing mSR performance:

    First and foremost, a Spektrum DX6i or DX7 is MANDATORY with this heli if you want total control and performance you can customize to suit your tastes. Get this FIRST before you do anything else. It's worth every penny. You can customize the throttle curve, the sensitivity of the sticks, the length of the sticks themselves, you can even "mix out" the aileron-rudder mixing to eliminate certain handling quirks (which were designed into the heli to make flight easier for beginners.) After applying some custom mix settings, the elevator servo now barely makes a sound as I move the rudder stick back and forth at zero throttle. This mix on my DX6i seems to work well for un-mixing the built-in mix...



    The mSR can actually be modified to the point of flipping onto its head in a small room, but it's almost impossible to control this way. Achieving a balance between handling and capability is key to getting the most out of this bird.

    Maximizing cyclic throw allows for quicker response and more extreme maneuvering, steeper funnels, totally sideways stall turns in small indoor rooms, and of course, flips and rolls, if you want to call a reckless outdoor "tumble" a roll or a flip. In ANY case, the tail motor's capability is going to be a major limiting factor once you start modifying your mSR for extra cyclic throw-- The tail will not be able to hold position under full-throttle stall turns and fast, tight banking.

    Presumably, you've already moved your links to the long set of arms. This will bring the stock heli near the limits of its design with stock parts. The anti-rotation forks on the rotor head and collar are stressed during radical cyclic maneuvers, and the resulting loose play, bending and breaking of these guides exploits these limits. Flybar strikes easily break the guides during mild crashes.

    Metal rotor head and anti-rotation collar upgrades are well worth the money. They need to have the square edges of their guide forks blunted with some 1000 grit paper before you use them, otherwise they will chew away at the links. Everyone knows the stock blade grips are easily broken or bent out of track during crashes, as well as having the tendency to get their balls broken off. Installing a metal blade grip helps durability greatly. Unfortunately, the spacing between the link balls is often wider on the aftermarket grip than the stock plastic grips. This effectively limits cyclic performance. I modified my MicroHeli blade grip to make the ball spacing narrower than the stock grip to add cyclic response. I removed the balls (which are only glued in), and spun them in a dremel chuck while I worked and polished them with 2000 grit paper, to get them down to stock ball size. Next, I ground down the raised bosses in the sides of the grip plate to reduce the ball spacing to 12.5 mm center-to-center. You can optionally check spacing with a micrometer at this point, and grind one side of the grip plate or the other to balance the spacing on center if necessary. I re-installed the balls, which stuck through the grip at this point, allowing me to peen the end of the stud in addition to using CA. These balls are not coming out.



    Shortening the swashplate arms is the next approach to increase cyclic throw. As previously detailed on this forum, you can cut off the ball end, remove a slice of plastic from the arm's length, then true up the surfaces and glue them back together with CA. There is a limit to how much you can shorten the arms before the bearing and the servos begin to bind. This will trash the servos quickly if you over-do it. My aileron arm has been shortened by .5 mm, and my elevator arm is 1 mm shorter.



    The guide at the rear of the swashplate is TOO SHORT and weak. The pin can easily pop out during a crash. It only gets worse as you modify it. Hold the cyclic stick fully forward and left while you put it back in place, this raises the pin to its highest position. I built up the end of my guides with CA, then laminated silk fabric against each side to strengthen it. My guide is about 2 mm taller than a stock frame, and it's much stronger. This photo also shows where I have piggybacked .060 CF whisker rods above and below both sets of canopy pins with CA to strengthen them. Thanks to the pinball guy (?) for this tip



    After breaking a few stock flybars, I began to notice something: After replacing with a new one, some of the increased performance was lost. The hole in the flybar actually needs to be well-worn before many of the cyclic mods will work to their fullest extent. After questioning the strength, length, weight, and shape of the stock flybar, I decided to build my own from the hub of a broken flybar, which was still intact to the ends of the "arc" part. I used .060 CF rod again, setting one into the middle of the channel, and the other glued into the "arc" via a small cut in the edge of the channel. I made the paddles from the plastic box of Sharpie Markers. It's one piece of plastic, folded over and glued to itself. The paddles are 17mm x 18mm x 1.5 mm thick. The CF rods extend thru to the ends. It was almost impossible to control the heli with no added flybar weight. This is the configuration that will flip onto its head in a bedroom. Don't even bother. I added solder to the inside of the paddles then visually balanced the flybar on a razor blade, using drops of CA inside to do the final balancing. I do not yet have a gram scale to weight this flybar.



    Today, I noticed something interesting regarding flybar hole wear-- As I mentioned above, I noticed how a fresh flybar slightly inhibits perfomance. I distinctly recall noticing how the flybar hole limits travel before the upper links crash into the top of the rotor head guides. After several dozen violent flights, my flybar is worn to where the links now crash into the rotor head guides. Perhaps taking a few thousands off the top could improve things a bit...



    The Cusker performance mod kit allows you to piggyback a link ball ring over the stock swashplate insert, to provide link balls spaced further apart than the stock "long" link balls. Many pilots have reported good results with this mod alone. I have not tried it yet. I may try to make my own swashplate insert with plastic balls spliced onto small extensions. For now, I feel that the other mods I've done bring the bird close to its limits with respect to balancing handling and capability.

    <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6zKc9NqNyb4&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6zKc9NqNyb4&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
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  15. #285
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