hydrostream core removal

[mad man]

Im starting a core job on a viking there is both rotten core and good core . the rotten comes out easy how ever the good part of the core is still bonded to the bottom . what is my best bet for removing it without damaging the bottom of the boat ?????

[Riverman]

I used a very heavy pry bar, the type with a nail pulling hook at one end and an angled prying wedge at the other end. As you know, the wedge end is shaped like a cold chisel. I sharpened mine to look like a wood chisel so the flat part can ride along the bottom and the shaft is angled up so it is comfortable to use.

I figured this out after my dry core sections WOULD NOT come off any other way. It went smooth after that.

[transomstand]

I did the same, used a Stanley Wonderbar, but a word of caution, I got a little too aggresive at one point, and punched a hole through the bottom. If you get a spot that's really stuck, play it safe and just grind it off instead.

[Jason C]

My core was a pain to get out, i used a skillsaw and set the blade to a 1/4 inch deep and cut the core in 2 by 2 inch squares then i took a claw hammer and layed it flat on the floor and knocked the core loose.If you dig the claw in the cuts you make with the saw the core will break loose just be carefull not to let the saw get away from you. I also used the pry bar like riverman stated, there is no easy way to get it out it takes time. Search core and you will find alot of helpfull info on this site. Good luck with your project and ask as many questions, the only dumb question is the one you dont ask,not everyone knows everything lol.

[XstreamVking]

When I did mine there was more good core than bad. I used a disc with a chain saw chain on the edge. I think it was from northern tools. Mount it to a grinder (with a var. speed controll) and lay it flat. Believe me this thing does not screw around, it's fast!!! But be very care full, heavy gloves, eye protection etc. Peel off the cover and get after the balsa real easy...

[mad man]

been using a wonder bar & 2 in. wood chishel coming out preety good at this point got hydrostreamvking4m helping me now he did his vector. thanks will post pics. as we go along

[transomstand]

got hydrostreamvking4m helping me now

That's the best way, do a Mark Twain. Just stand outside the boat and keep asking questions, while he does all the work.

[mad man]

making good progress core is out removing stringers at this point. we are adding 2 stringers 1 on each side .what do you guys think about placement ? on the hull or ontop of balsa ? what about cutting holes in main stringers to reduce more weight. we are hoping to come in around 500 lbs. is that realistic?

[transomstand]

Stringer placement has been a topic of hot debate here before. I think you can go either way (mine are against the hull), to me, quality of construction trumps method, as long as your not doing something completely off the wall.

You can do a 500 lb layup, but I'd rather see you add a little horsepower, and build the hull a little stronger, to achieve the same speed.

[Sonik]

making good progress core is out removing stringers at this point. we are adding 2 stringers 1 on each side .what do you guys think about placement ? on the hull or ontop of balsa ? what about cutting holes in main stringers to reduce more weight. we are hoping to come in around 500 lbs. is that realistic?

On hull or on top of core. This always gets the natives fired up. Mine went back together the way it was built...stringers on the hull. Although, I've seen Streams built both ways and been REbuilt both ways. I've heard arguments for and against either method and would suggest you do some reading and make a decision for yourself. How are the original stringers affixed in your boat? What year is the boat? Does/did it have foam floatation boxes along both gunnels?

500 seems like it might be a stretch. Vking/Viking v bottom weights were around 600-625 if I remember right and I'm not sure you can pull 100 lbs out of it even going with thinner core panel, and/or bagging the new stuff and still have a reliable lake boat. I will say the interior is the place where you can save some considerable weight, given sparce accomodations are acceptable to you. The original foam-filled seatbox in my boat was pretty beefy as well and had some weight. I would stick to a similar seatbox design there as its argued it provides integral hull reinforcement.

Edit: Pete beat me to it...build it so it stays together..and if its too heavy, just add more HP (someone told me the same thing once upon a time)

Edit #2: inability to write coherent sentences today...

[mad man]

Thanks the only interior will be a 6 lb. allison drag seat. batt. fuel cell .1/2 core on bottom 3/8 on the upper . what about the holes cut in the main stringers?

[mad man]

This is being built strictly as a drag boat .

[mad man]

We talked about vacum bagged ,but dont have the eqipment for that. when brian did his he weighted it down . that turned out very nice. We will prob. go that route again , We are using a vinyl polly. then again we have experince working with that . We will be putting main stringers to hull and the upper two on.top of core. I am still waiting for input on the holes in main stringers, What do you guys think ? Remember this is strictly a drag boat .

[Sonik]

I say if the replacement stringers will be the same size as the originals, I wouldn't do it. Seems to me it could potentially take too much away from its purpose as a primary reinforcement for the high-speed running surface.

[oldskier]

Thanks the only interior will be a 6 lb. allison drag seat. batt. fuel cell .1/2 core on bottom 3/8 on the upper . what about the holes cut in the main stringers?

I'll let you answer the swiss cheese treatment on the stringers. Take a strip of stringer material (1/2" plywood?) and cut the holes out and weigh them. Then cut another strip and don't cut the holes.

Take both of the strips and grab up one end and beat them on concrete until they break. (good luck breaking the un-holed one...)

Thats how much weight you save compared to how much strength you lose.