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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by YELLOWSS View Post
    i put hyd in my last allison. it is nice, but always had a little slop. still no luck. going to try something a friend gave me.. if not i will b looking for some used cables.

    roy
    I can't understand why you keep "experimenting". Known good penetrants, like WD40, Marvel Mystery Oil, SeaFoam, PB blaster, etc all work.

    If you can get any motion at all, a good penetrant will get through and flush it out. It must be very thin and cut both grease and corrosion. If it's real tight, even with a very light penetrant it could take hours, or even days at 100 psi. After it's good and clean, a light, preferably synthetic oil will lube it so it runs smooth and free. I use synthetic 5W30.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  2. #77
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    i have tried them all!!!!!!!!! nothing went through it. i bought two used cables. that i couldnt move with my hand. about an hour on each one, and they are loose, and move freely by hand. the one that is stuck has a grease fitting on it, so i guess it is just to caked up in there.

    roy
    93 xr 2001 drag with a 15" drag
    92 xb 2002 comp with a 15" drag
    R.I.P. Phil "rpm racing" Watch over the rest of us my friend.

  3. #78
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    it could be frey'd on tha inside Roy......Throw tha bicch away and git anuther one...Tha original luber wuz juss kinna a crutch to keep from have'in to buy new cables prematuraly, but juss ain't a mirikle worker...

    I have had cables dat flow'd fluid thru, and still wuz stiff, and had sum that after hours, tha fluid never made it out tha other end...chunk'em...It'z yo life ya play'in wit...We no ya ugly, but kill'in yaself ain't gunna make ya no purdier!!..

  4. #79
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    that is what i did rex!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i never have had a allsion steer so easy, except the racing cables.. thanks for all the help.

    roy
    93 xr 2001 drag with a 15" drag
    92 xb 2002 comp with a 15" drag
    R.I.P. Phil "rpm racing" Watch over the rest of us my friend.

  5. #80
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    Thank you!!!

    I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who posted their methods in this thread. I cleaned and lubed my dual cable nfb system over the past week and it works like a dream. I went from needing to use both hands and lots of muscle to steer my ranger bass boat to now being able to use 1 finger to steer. This saved me about $500 for a new steering system and cables that my mechanic was trying to sell me. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

    Here's what I did:

    I flushed both cables twice with SeaFoam and then used some 5w-30 to lube the cables. The first cable took over a week at 130psi for the SeaFoam to work its way through the cable. I spent an entire evening turning the steering wheel back and forth and that finally worked the SeaFoam through. The SeaFoam in the other cable worked its way through in a few hours.

    I used an old tilt tube welded to a piece of pipe that was long enough to fully extend the steering cables and then welded a galvanized 't' fitting with a plug on one side to fill the tube and an air fitting on the other. Here are a couple pics of the setup I used.



  6. #81
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    Likewise as scott2000d stated, I also want to say thanks for this thread. The steering on my Skeeter was very stiff (two hands-hand over hand) as well. Made up a lubing devise and used MMO first, followed by synthetic 5-30 oil. Now the steering is one finger end to end. Now the question is how long will the change last? I was considering going hydraulic for a total of $800-$900. What a great fix!

  7. #82
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    This thread is 7 years old. Haven't done anything to my steering since I lubed the cables in 2010. Still works as it should.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  8. #83
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    I'm going to build this for my very stiff cables. Question for those that have done it, how do I disconnect the steering cables from the steering rack under the helm?

    Cables say ACCO, but they are a rack and pinion and the cable loads from the end of the rack. The cable has a nut where the cable meets the rack, but will there be a trick to disconnecting the cable end from the rack itself?

    I thought I should disconnect them from the rack before pushing all the sludge up to the rack, but maybe just leave them connected and push the sludge through the rack and let it drip out?
    Last edited by Captaincj; 11-11-2017 at 12:54 PM.

  9. #84
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    Like I said when I resurrected this thread, it's been 7 years. Seems I remember taking the cover and racks off the steering gear and dangling the cables with racks into a pan to collect the crap coming through. Then clean em up, lube the racks with a little 2-4-C, and put it back together.

    You sure it's rack and pinion, and not drum steering?
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  10. #85
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    Yes definitely rack and pinion.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by j_martin View Post
    Just got in from doing the dual rack cables. Ran into a snag. The tilt tube i had purchased was bent, so a cable wouldn't go through it. Of course I found that out a coupla hours after the shop was closed.

    I found that the threads on a 3/4 in flare fitting I had in the junk bin are exactly the same as the tilt tube, 7/8" NF. Then the light came on. I drilled out the bore of the fitting to 5/8 inch. Then went at the front of it with a step drill to clean up the end, and chamfer it slightly. That gave me a brass edge that seats against the cable end flange oil tight with no goo of any kind. To that flare fitting, I added a 3/4 fpt to sweat adapter, a length of 3/4 in copper tube, and a 3/4 sweat to 1/2 fpt adapter. I screwed an air zerk into a 1/2 x 1/4 in bushing.

    I fit this contraption over the rod of the cable, threaded on the cable connection. Tilted it up and filled it with about 6 oz of SeaFoam, screwed in the bushing, snapped on the air hose, which was hung over the overhead rail, keeping the cable tilted upward.

    I ran 3 passes of SeaFoam through each cable. One was rusty, and the other took about 1 1/2 hours for the first pass, as it was full of black goo. Oiled em up with 5W30 Wally World full synthetic, detailed the rack with a rag and greased it up with WW marine grease, assembled it, and it's like new.

    Thanx T-rex for the example, and every body else for your input.

    John
    I just built two of these so I could do both cables at the same time. Worked great.

    Just a correction to you fitting sizes and to help the next guy, it was a 5/8 flare fitting, not a 7/8. It does measure 7/8 when you measure the total width of the threads, but it's packaged and sold as a 5/8 flare fitting for gas.

    Specifically I used a 3/4 plumbing to 5/8 gas flare fitting connector and then bored out the center to 5/8 so the steering arm would fit through. I wish I would have bored the hole 11/16 though because it was almost impossible to get the lubers back off the steering rams!!! Also, I found these fittings in steel or brass. I bought the brass one thinking it would be easier to bore out.

    So if/when I use them again I will bore them 11/16ths or put the 5/8s bit back in and reem the Bayliner out of it!

    Thanks for your post and pictures, it really helped me.

    Chris
    Last edited by Captaincj; 11-24-2017 at 10:16 AM.

  12. #87
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    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

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