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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter1 View Post
    More than likely when the top reservoir went low it set off the lube-alert and everything is ok. There was a service bulliten about this same tubing...
    The broken hose will not cause the reservoir to become half-full, but this condition can occur easily:

    A loose cap on the master oil reservoir will cause the tank to drain as it consumes the oil, without air pressure feeding the master reservoir to push more oil into it. Loosening the cap on the motor's reservoir while running will cause the tank to gradually re-fill. If the tank was ever low at one time, and was not re-filled, the air pocket has nowhere to go. The tank may have been half-full for a long time, but still functioning just fine until a loose main tank cap caused it to drain more.

    I'm going to place my bet now:

    Your engine doesn't need a re-build. It's fine. A compression test will prove this for sure.
    The hose cracked while you were examining the hose before dumping in the extra oil.
    After adding the oil, the engine wouldn't run due to a fuel shortage condition caused by the tee fitting sucking air. The extra oil ensured the motor was not damaged.
    The oil tank has been low for a while.
    IF the oil injection is still working, it might not for long. It should be removed.

    -chad
    '89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
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  2. #17
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    Ok first off you guys are aweome, I'm learning a lot here! I fixed those pictures so they're not huge and annoying, lol. Doing the easiest thing first, I pulled the plugs and, as pyro guessed, 1 and 2 were fouled. I guess I over reacted when I heard that oil alarm and made the rookie mistake of thinking more oil was better. Following Riverrummer's lead, I did notice two small flakes of aluminum throw-off on plug #5 though , so that cylinder must have some wear, idk how much yet. I couldn't see any other shavings when looking in the plug hole with a flashlight. Flywheel turns smooth, no grinding or noises.

    I guess I'd rather do a compression check (don't have any leak test gear) before I spend time taking off the heads, but after hearing the dangers of that 20:1 premix in there I was thinking I should get a portable tank to run her off while testing because I don't have anywhere to put a half a tank of oily gas right now, lol. I'm feeling a lot more optimistic than before, so thanks for that! I've learned my lesson, lol, and definitely want to remove and plate off the oil injection and replace hoses like you guys said.

    So where do you guys get your marine quality tubing/ hoses? Also, if worst comes and #5 needs a rebore, is it okay to only bore out one cyl and run one plus sized piston, or do I have to do them all to keep the cam balanced? Thanks guys!
    Last edited by The A Dog; 05-11-2009 at 02:20 PM. Reason: clarified stuff

  3. #18
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    ADOG If i were you i would pull the heads and do a good look around.If you have flakes on # 5 im willing to bet 6 isnt far off.
    You would be suprised at how long a merc will run with one or two holes down im talking total melt down they will keep running until a rod lets go.I had a 150 on a stream a few years back and i knew the motor was about whooped so july forth i was on a mission to grenade this one on purpose.I could not for the life of me blow that bastard up.I ran her at 6000 all day long i would trim it up until she ran hot and then she would make these horriffic noises l figured as soon as i shut it off the alumnum would ball all up and get hard and that would be the end of her!NFNway she fired up again i drove her back from ski beach in Mullica River to Tuckerton and ripped her down. # 6 was not even there any more it looked like a smelt pot when you make sinkers with lead ya know.So take it for what its worth.If you want to save her then do a tear down while the gettin is good.If you want to chance it and run her the way she is now its a 50 50 shot.JMO.I have a set of gaskets that should fit that motor so if you want to tear the heads off and have a look you can have the head gaskets for shipping cost to your address,....I have no use for them anymore. either way good luck and rip that oil injection off and throw in the trash can!

    A.T. Godfrey
    Tuckerton
    N.J. USA
    2005 280 Ros 15"
    HydroStream/Ventura 16`
    Mercury 2.4 litre

    31`11" CC Scorpion pair 200hp Mercs






  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by The A Dog View Post
    Ok first off you guys are aweome, I'm learning a lot here! I fixed those pictures so they're not huge and annoying, lol. Doing the easiest thing first, I pulled the plugs and, as pyro guessed, 1 and 2 were fouled. I guess I over reacted when I heard that oil alarm and made the rookie mistake of thinking more oil was better. Following Riverrummer's lead, I did notice two small flakes of aluminum throw-off on plug #5 though , so that cylinder must have some wear, idk how much yet. I couldn't see any other shavings when looking in the plug hole with a flashlight. Flywheel turns smooth, no grinding or noises.

    I guess I'd rather do a compression check (don't have any leak test gear) before I spend time taking off the heads, but after hearing the dangers of that 20:1 premix in there I was thinking I should get a portable tank to run her off while testing because I don't have anywhere to put a half a tank of oily gas right now, lol. I'm feeling a lot more optimistic than before, so thanks for that! I've learned my lesson, lol, and definitely want to remove and plate off the oil injection and replace hoses like you guys said.

    So where do you guys get your marine quality tubing/ hoses? Also, if worst comes and #5 needs a rebore, is it okay to only bore out one cyl and run one plus sized piston, or do I have to do them all to keep the cam balanced? Thanks guys!
    Don't know if it's kosher, but I use tygon tubing I get from the local small engine shop. One caveat is that the pulse hose on the fuel pump needs to be the pretty stiff rubber. Tygon soaks up the energy and the fuel pump gets lazy. Ask me how I know.

    The block off part isn't expensive, and it's more than a plate. It retains a bushing in the bottom of the hole so it doesn't fall into the crankcase. There must be a dozen threads on S&F on the subject. The whole kit with plugs, o-rings, and stickers is only about 20 bucks. I would guess there's nothing wrong with your oil system except the boat tank is empty or something is pinching off the hoses, or the cap is loose on it. The small tank on the motor is a reserve, and the alarm goes off as soon as it starts to draw down. It will oil the motor about a half hour at WOT.

    If compression is good, don't worry about the coupla flakes. Could have been from pulling more than it's fair share with lean fuel (too much oil) and 2 dead holes. With the way that motor's been cared for, it might have been running a little lean before the alarm or broken hose.

    Pistons are all the same weight. One slightly bigger bore isn't a big deal. Putting a piston in is a big deal.

    Relax a bit. When these guys get you up to speed, there won't be anything in the water but about 2/3 of your prop.

    hope it helps
    John
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    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  5. #20
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    All this pissing around you can have the heads off then back on in less than an hour. It will take you just as long to do compresstion and you still wont know what it looks like in there. Id say for peace of mind just undo the bolts and pop of the heads and have a look see. Then youll know. If there good great if not your at a starting point. Borrow or steal a torque wrench to put back on. If torque is same as a 2.5 bring all to 20lb then all to 38 with light oil on threads. Get a service manual it will tell you the bolt sequence or some one will post a pic from theres for you to do back up. I can post it for you from my manual if someone can verify the sequince is the same. New gaskets are 50 -60 bucks for the pair. Then you have peace of mind.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by whipper View Post
    All this pissing around you can have the heads off then back on in less than an hour. It will take you just as long to do compresstion and you still wont know what it looks like in there. Id say for peace of mind just undo the bolts and pop of the heads and have a look see. Then youll know. If there good great if not your at a starting point. Borrow or steal a torque wrench to put back on. If torque is same as a 2.5 bring all to 20lb then all to 38 with light oil on threads. Get a service manual it will tell you the bolt sequence or some one will post a pic from theres for you to do back up. I can post it for you from my manual if someone can verify the sequince is the same. New gaskets are 50 -60 bucks for the pair. Then you have peace of mind.

    Unless you pull the heads you will never really know whats going on in there. All gave you good advise .Just pull the heads and let us know what you find .

    Hopefully its not as bad as you think


    18 ft Speedcraft - Offshore

    Bottle Fed Merc tuber 2.4

  7. #22
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    Haha ok, ok *makes way to garage* I'm gonna stop talking and pull the heads! I've got the Clymer and the Seloc shop manuals as well as a torque wrench so I'm set! Oceantraveler, I'd definitely be interested in those gaskets!
    Tough times never last but tough people do.
    1981 Baja 170SS | 1985 Mercury 150 2.0L V6

  8. #23
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    ?????????????

    You've seen aluminum. Pop the heads. Regardless of what you find at least you'l surely know whats happened. I'll take a bet that #6 is worse than #5. IMO Pull the port side head first, then the starboard. It's 12 bolts per head.

    And if you don't have one. Get a manual applicable to your motor. You'll get all the help in the world on this site. Just help yourself also.

    Hope you got lucky.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by The A Dog View Post
    Haha ok, ok *makes way to garage* I'm gonna stop talking and pull the heads! I've got the Clymer and the Seloc shop manuals as well as a torque wrench so I'm set! Oceantraveler, I'd definitely be interested in those gaskets!
    Like Stream said if you get stuck theres Scream and fly! I was the same as you. Then a buddy who is very knowladgabe with outboards said your going to have to learn how to do this sorta thing sooner or later. Nature of the beast. Once you get into it youll find its not that big of deal. Taking off and putting heads on isnt much harder than changing spark plugs. Just a lot more threads. Take some pics of the insides and post them if you have a suspect one or two. These guys can tell you what they think your next step is. No flash in the sunlight makes the best bore pics. The flash makes things look differant.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by whipper View Post
    Take some pics of the insides ... No flash in the sunlight makes the best bore pics. The flash makes things look differant.
    Cloudy or overcast daylight will actually yield the best results. The light comes from all directions, not as harsh.

    To take photos of engine parts, push the "flower-pot" shaped icon/button on your camera to put it in close-up "macro" mode. It will focus down to inches, instead of the default 4 feet+ range. Push the lightning bolt (flash) button till it shows a "no flash" icon.
    '89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
    My YouTube videos________My Flickr photo gallery
    http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1706097519

  11. #26
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    Well I took the heads off! By the time I got them unstuck from the gaskets it was too dark to take pictures without the flash, so take that into account. I had to drive to NAPA to get some of that Permatex gasket remover so it took me longer and I just missed the good sun. All in all I think it looks ok; it definitely looks it's age (1985), it could use a through cleaning, and there were some spots I was unsure about, but you be the judge. Everything felt smooth to the touch and I didn't find any shavings inside the cylinders. So remember, I had to use flash because I missed the light, hope the pics are still useful.

    Cylinders 1 through 5 in order left to right:
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    Last edited by The A Dog; 05-11-2009 at 08:55 PM. Reason: fixed pics
    Tough times never last but tough people do.
    1981 Baja 170SS | 1985 Mercury 150 2.0L V6

  12. #27
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    The first two pictures in this post are of #6...kept getting weird glare from the flash because those were the last ones taken and it was pretty dark. It didn't really look that different from the others when I was looking at them side by side. There's also a pic of the starboard head; oceantraveler, take a look and see if that looks like it matches the gaskets u have. What do you guys think?
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    Tough times never last but tough people do.
    1981 Baja 170SS | 1985 Mercury 150 2.0L V6

  13. #28
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    Excessive wash on some but it looks nice. Put them back on and straighten out the prob and your good to go.
    OneBigAssMistakeAmerica

    "No good deed goes unpunished"


    81 Sanger Alleycat

    1984 21' Carrazza w/mariner magnum 2.5 200 EFI


    www.rinaldi-engines.com

  14. #29
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    Heck, that ain't even broke in yet.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  15. #30
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    Haha! I never thought I'd hear such wonderful words. You guys are the best! It's like a huge weight has been lifted...so she's not dead (yet, lol)!
    Tough times never last but tough people do.
    1981 Baja 170SS | 1985 Mercury 150 2.0L V6

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