Hydrostream Valero (canuck edition) hull repair!!!

**huck_this** · 04-20-2009, 04:29 PM

I got stress cracks at the splash well/transom area. The stern is also bowed instead of being straight. Definitely a transom job required.

The floor in the rear started rotting. So today I decided to start removing it. It looked like Cedar ply-wood was used.

I've got core rot of 1sqft. I tap tested and even checked a good section to make sure. Core is nice and dry. I will be removing the bad stuff until I find the good stuff.

Going to make some knee boards as well.

I would have taken pictures, but it starting raining and had to close it all up.

I'll add pictures as soon as I can.

**Hippie459MN** · 04-20-2009, 08:35 PM

Looking forward to the pictures.

Going to be completely redoing my Vulture this winter (Or maybe sooner) and just like to see what I am getting myself into. I have read tons of other threads here but can never take in to much info.

**Ronny Jetmore** · 04-21-2009, 05:23 AM

if the core is good, i would, at least, remove the floor, sand and put multiple coats of epoxy on the core to keep it good.

rj

**huck_this** · 04-21-2009, 07:09 AM

Originally Posted by Ronny Jetmore

if the core is good, i would, at least, remove the floor, sand and put multiple coats of epoxy on the core to keep it good.

rj

Up to now, I just found a small area of core rot. I will remove and replace it. I don't know if the Canadian Editions are made the same way as the American ones. I had a good layer of glass on top of the core.

I did a quick tap test and opened the area that was soft. Meaning, the fiberglass was flexible. That's where the core was rotten.

**Ronny Jetmore** · 04-21-2009, 07:33 AM

remember, even if the original core is sealed properly, which is doubtful, the original glass is laid using polyester resin, which will, over time, allow water to penetrate into the balsa, if water ends-up under the floor. so, even if the core is sealed with polyester, i would still multi-coat with epoxy. epoxy does an awesome job at keeping water out.

rj

**huck_this** · 04-21-2009, 07:36 AM

Originally Posted by Ronny Jetmore

remember, even if the original core is sealed properly, which is doubtful, the original glass is laid using polyester resin, which will, over time, allow water to penetrate into the balsa, if water ends-up under the floor. so, even if the core is sealed with polyester, i would still multi-coat with epoxy. epoxy does an awesome job at keeping water out.

rj

Ok, so rip off the old glass covering the good core, epoxy to seal the good core and re-laminate with a good resin/glass?

**Ronny Jetmore** · 04-21-2009, 07:52 AM

no, if your core is dry and no delamination has taken place, then simply clean, sand (60-80 grit or so), then brush on epoxy. i like west system the best. mas epoxy is okay, but west does perform better. look real good for bad spots, remove them, replace the bad spots with the same material in the same fashion in order to prevent hard spots in the glass.

some people will tell you that you will still have a problem with water coming in from the porous gel coat on the bottom and then through the porous polyester on the bottom, working its way into the core from underneath. this can, in theory happen, but on a trailered boat, it is HIGHLY unlikely. the real water gets in under the floor. it sweats under there and is a hot bed for rot. keep it ventilated. if you can, put a hole in the floor toward the bow to allow more breathing.

a lot of people have these really nice older boats that have solid floors and cores but if they don't seal the core well, then they better keep every ounce of water from getting under the floor because it probably will make its way to the balsa eventually. this is how the boats with rotten cores got rotten to begin with. remember, even a wet balsa core maintains a lot of integrity for a while (sea ray did some testing on this) but it will eventually turn to mush once it is wet.

ronny jetmore

**huck_this** · 04-21-2009, 08:21 AM

Thanks Ronny...much appreciated. Boat is always out of water on trailer and the drain plug removed as well to help ventilation. Having a vent hole in the bow section is a pretty good idea. I will consider that as well. Good ventilation will keep the area under the floor dry. Also will prevent sweat due to the temperature variance when a hot hull hits a colder water on a hot day.

Any other tricks you re commend?

Should I take samples from the aft section and work my way forward. A sample I took yesterday was in the aft area and it was really hard to separate the f/glass from the core. Some strands even stayed stuck to the core. I even took some out to check to see if there is any humidity and it was dry.

**Ronny Jetmore** · 04-21-2009, 08:29 AM

it couldn't hurt to pull some random samples. usually, if water is anywhere it is closest to the keel (gravity does this). if it ain't there, it probably ain't anywhere. don't get too upset if you find some isolated places with water. it is not that big of a deal to fix those.

if you want to get by pretty cheap, this is not the best way, but if the core is dry, you can also coat everything really well with oil based paint. it is not close to as good as epoxy, but unless water is staying under the floor all the time, oil based paint will block water surprisingly well. it will do a better job than polyester resin only, that's for darn sure.

i've heard of some guys sealing the boat in a tent (for lack of a better word) after using the boat, and then putting a dehumidifier in the tent to suck out water. this couldn't hurt. it's probably overkill, but overkill is easier than replacing rot.
thanks

ronny
410 394 9000

**huck_this** · 04-26-2009, 03:04 PM

Sample of good core!!!

Bad core!!!!

**huck_this** · 05-02-2009, 04:52 PM

Took the transom out today. The wood was really saturated with water.

**huck_this** · 05-05-2009, 11:09 AM

Got my Marine plywood and balsa yesterday. I got my epoxy resin today and a ****load of cloth. Got some minor grinding sanding to do to prep it for the new core/transom/floor.

**Hippie459MN** · 05-05-2009, 02:12 PM

Cant wait to see how it looks. Take plenty of pics along the way.

**huck_this** · 06-09-2009, 10:08 AM

Transom is in finally. Weather was on the cool side and it was raining a lot in May.

Pictures to come when the weather permits me to remove the cover. Its raining like crazy at the moment.

I went through 5 gallons of resin just for the rear transom.

I got to get some more.

**tunnels** · 06-10-2009, 04:56 PM

Glassing in cool damp conditions !

Keep a close eye on the humidity and build a covered area ,place a small heater and dry things . Temprature dosent need to be high just need the air dry so the resin will cure properly .

Moisture on the surface you are glassing to and moisture gets into the glass cloth you are using , its a killer of dreams !!

First signs are the layup turns slightly opace and or milky looking .
It will never cure even if you try to cook it !!!.

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