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  1. #16
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    i was close off a picture and memoy lol and look like u got some work ahead of u and if u could try to aviod pullin the top cap
    14' lowe (20-24 mph)
    13' Mini Hawk (unknow yet) under restro
    http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=164779
    If your not living life to the extreme your not living life to the fullest

  2. #17
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    Looks like a fun project!! Good luck

  3. #18
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    does the motor run
    14' lowe (20-24 mph)
    13' Mini Hawk (unknow yet) under restro
    http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=164779
    If your not living life to the extreme your not living life to the fullest

  4. #19
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    That's a cool little boat. That would be killer with a hot V4 yami .
    '08 SRV
    Yamaha 3.1 Phase III


  5. #20
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    Just to State the Obvious...

    Did you pick up on Matt's post that he has a thread on his restoration of my former Vandal--

    http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=127688

    lots of photos, step by step with sections where others have pitched in with ideas. And there are a ton of other threads regarding restoring and recoring other Hydrostreams--but this one showy you your boat.
    Per Rock:

    "Once I bought my first Hydrostream boating changed forever for me."

    Per my hero Instigator:

    "I try not to let common sense interfere w/my boat buying decisions."


    Pat Gent
    cell 954-249-3246
    '78 Hydrostream Vandal (being rebuilt)
    '86 21' Eliminator Daytona, 300 OMC V-8 (Li'l Toy III)

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Li'l Toy View Post
    Did you pick up on Matt's post that he has a thread on his restoration of my former Vandal--

    http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=127688

    lots of photos, step by step with sections where others have pitched in with ideas. And there are a ton of other threads regarding restoring and recoring other Hydrostreams--but this one showy you your boat.
    Yes sir I have read that thread many times Great info and pics to. Should come in handy
    "Brandon Field"

    Formerly Fieldzy

    Silly Rabbit, OMC's are for Kids

    1982 Hydrostream Vandal, Currently under Resto

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastlane35 View Post
    i was close off a picture and memoy lol and look like u got some work ahead of u and if u could try to aviod pullin the top cap
    I think im goina pull it anyways. If it had the original rub rail that would be different story

    Quote Originally Posted by fastlane35 View Post
    does the motor run
    Not sure. Goina find out soon

    Quote Originally Posted by Plan-b View Post
    Looks like a fun project!! Good luck
    Thanks, Its goina be fun alright

    Quote Originally Posted by DoktorC View Post
    That's a cool little boat. That would be killer with a hot V4 yami .
    Naww V6 Merc all the way
    Last edited by Maple Leaf; 11-19-2008 at 09:53 PM.
    "Brandon Field"

    Formerly Fieldzy

    Silly Rabbit, OMC's are for Kids

    1982 Hydrostream Vandal, Currently under Resto

  8. #23
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    Fieldzy (Yer ALWAYS gonna be Feildzy to me...) all you really need right now is hand tools and a borrowed engine hoist. You will feel much better once you have the hardware removed and it's down to bare hull.

    If you can borrow a sawzall to remove the deck, you can do most of the rest of the demo with a cutting wheel on a $20 angle grinder. You can use it to clean the core bonding material too, but it will take a lot of time and abrasive disks. Matt used 60 grit but I went down to 36 grit and just tried to be careful. If you see color, you're getting into gel coat. I did it in a few places and put in a layer or two of choppped strand mat (CSM) to reinforce the thin spots. Just be sure the old bonding material is all gone and the fiberglass is all scuffed BEYOND the core area about 4 inches or so for the new cloth/resin to get a good bite.

    Gonna need to get the rollers off that trailer and get at least 2 more bunks under it and make sure you adjust them tight to the bottom of the hull, and snug the bow up in to the V block at the winch. It makes a pretty good support. If you have the cash, a jig is better, but if you don't have a lot of money, 4 bunks and the V block worked for me.

    Once the deck is off and you have the core out, the hull is REALLY THIN, leave the old stringers in and walk on them, NOT THE HULL, or you might find you're walking on the ground. On mine, I cut the new stringers and got in the boat barefoot, using a piece of scrap plywood to walk on the hull while I was replacing the old stringers.

    The gunnels will flop out once the deck is off. Measure the deck side to side carefully and put some 2 X 2 braces every three feet or so to keep them the same width as the deck BEFORE you start to recore, or you will find it very hard to get the deck to fit back on.

    Yeah, JS is the best if you can afford it, but many of us have done it successfully ourselves, and you can too. Answers are only a few minutes to a day away right here.

    You are probably gonna have more time than money if you are like most guys your age. Be patient but persistent and you will get it done, get it right and be very pleased with your boat and yourself. The largest one-time purchase for me was $400 for balsa and filler. If you can get your resin and cloth locally, you can buy a little at a time as you need it.

    I'm looking forward to watching this thread. I know you are wanting a V6, but I hope that inline is able to be revived. Inlines are COOL!

    Bernie
    OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...


    1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
    1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
    1995 Harris toon



  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskier View Post
    Fieldzy (Yer ALWAYS gonna be Feildzy to me...) all you really need right now is hand tools and a borrowed engine hoist. You will feel much better once you have the hardware removed and it's down to bare hull.

    If you can borrow a sawzall to remove the deck, you can do most of the rest of the demo with a cutting wheel on a $20 angle grinder. You can use it to clean the core bonding material too, but it will take a lot of time and abrasive disks. Matt used 60 grit but I went down to 36 grit and just tried to be careful. If you see color, you're getting into gel coat. I did it in a few places and put in a layer or two of choppped strand mat (CSM) to reinforce the thin spots. Just be sure the old bonding material is all gone and the fiberglass is all scuffed BEYOND the core area about 4 inches or so for the new cloth/resin to get a good bite.

    Gonna need to get the rollers off that trailer and get at least 2 more bunks under it and make sure you adjust them tight to the bottom of the hull, and snug the bow up in to the V block at the winch. It makes a pretty good support. If you have the cash, a jig is better, but if you don't have a lot of money, 4 bunks and the V block worked for me.

    Once the deck is off and you have the core out, the hull is REALLY THIN, leave the old stringers in and walk on them, NOT THE HULL, or you might find you're walking on the ground. On mine, I cut the new stringers and got in the boat barefoot, using a piece of scrap plywood to walk on the hull while I was replacing the old stringers.

    The gunnels will flop out once the deck is off. Measure the deck side to side carefully and put some 2 X 2 braces every three feet or so to keep them the same width as the deck BEFORE you start to recore, or you will find it very hard to get the deck to fit back on.

    Yeah, JS is the best if you can afford it, but many of us have done it successfully ourselves, and you can too. Answers are only a few minutes to a day away right here.

    You are probably gonna have more time than money if you are like most guys your age. Be patient but persistent and you will get it done, get it right and be very pleased with your boat and yourself. The largest one-time purchase for me was $400 for balsa and filler. If you can get your resin and cloth locally, you can buy a little at a time as you need it.

    I'm looking forward to watching this thread. I know you are wanting a V6, but I hope that inline is able to be revived. Inlines are COOL!

    Bernie
    Thank you Oldskier! That is alot of info that will help me out alot My first step is to adjust the trailer and make more bunks. But im not sure if I am going to be able to work on it this winter. My dads car is coming back from paint in a couple of weeks, but I am going to try and convince him if I can use the garage still. This boat is ALOT smaller then what it actually seems like in the pics. So im sure there would be enough room in the garage with the car. My plan is to get rid of the inline and get either a 150 V6 or a late 80's 115 Inline 6. But im leaning more towards the newer inline. Anyways I could always put a V6 on it later right?
    "Brandon Field"

    Formerly Fieldzy

    Silly Rabbit, OMC's are for Kids

    1982 Hydrostream Vandal, Currently under Resto

  10. #25
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    If I was close to John Speath I would have had him do the core installation and shoot the gel on. Have you read the ATC manual? It's a must for info on recoring.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverman View Post
    If I was close to John Speath I would have had him do the core installation and shoot the gel on. Have you read the ATC manual? It's a must for info on recoring.
    I have not. I will be sure to read it.
    "Brandon Field"

    Formerly Fieldzy

    Silly Rabbit, OMC's are for Kids

    1982 Hydrostream Vandal, Currently under Resto

  12. #27
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    If you're pulling the deck off I'd be very hesitant to do it on the trailer. I was pretty careful building the jig, which is indexed to the flat garage floor, and I'm pretty sure the hull has warped like a potato chip. Since the running surface is supported by the jig directly, I think the core will go in OK, but I'm worried about getting the deck back on straight. Each part has over an inch of play in the width direction when they are not attached to each-other.
    78 Hydrostream Vandal - under restoration here: VANDAL RESTORATION THREAD
    86 21' Eliminator Daytona
    17' Badetta sandbar skiff

  13. #28
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    To add to the stuff Bernie wrote above, buy 5 gallons of acetone. You will use most of it. I did, except for the amount my wife used for nail polish remover.

  14. #29
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    John also sells some SWEET hand cleaner. Takes resin off your hands/cloths/mom's carpet like nothing and it's not harsh like Acetone.
    '08 SRV
    Yamaha 3.1 Phase III


  15. #30
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    Apr 2001
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    WASHINGTON N.C.. I TOO HAVE A BOATING PROBLEM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Gent View Post
    If you're pulling the deck off I'd be very hesitant to do it on the trailer. I was pretty careful building the jig, which is indexed to the flat garage floor, and I'm pretty sure the hull has warped like a potato chip. Since the running surface is supported by the jig directly, I think the core will go in OK, but I'm worried about getting the deck back on straight. Each part has over an inch of play in the width direction when they are not attached to each-other.
    I made a "cradle" to support my Vector, and still think that is the best way to go to keep every thing "un-warped'.

    I kept the cardboard templets, (3), that was transfered to plywood, if anybody would like me to send them to them.

    I imagine it is only good for Vectors, (maybe V-Kings too), but that is why I saved them, to help the next guy.
    JOHN MASON
    '83/VECTOR/MERC 200-- SOLD
    '98 Quartershot T-3/ MERC 200




    "If your not living on the edge, your taking up to much space"

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