13' hustler

[baitshopbilly]

you guys are right about removing the deck, but I made the decision for leaving it on because I wanted it to help hold the hull's shape. I am going to lay glass over my entire hull about 6" past the strakes, and don't want any distortion since it is bunked on a trailer.

I have already prepped the hull for glass, It WAS a LLLOOOTTT more work with the deck on. So if anyone is using this thread for advice, these guys were just trying to save me some grief and arm aches.

When removing the splashwell, I found that it was really easy to remove the screws from the trim, score the caulk, and cut the glass inside to remove. I now see why everyone was suggesting this a few weeks ago.

Maybe next year, when I have more of a budget for trim, lumber, and have a better feel for what I want out of the deck(color, trim, radio, speaker locations, etc,) this will take some using of the boat to dial in. then I'll remove, make my adjustments, and paint.


have inspected bow area really well, transom wood is already out(cut out splashwell), and the only stress cracks in the deck are in the corners of the splashwell that I have removed in a manner for easy prepping and the ability to provide more support. And of course, the common dash board tears at the gauges. these repairs are already accessible so I think I'll keep moving forward with the repairs leaving the deck on.

Goin to take it easy this weekend on my 1973 30' chris craft commander for some trophy salmon this weekend. this boat has to have the thickest hull on the planet! But those darn 307Q motors can be a handful!

[flabum1017]

Be careful how much glass you add in.... don't go crazy, otherwise you'll end up with a boat that weighs a ton.

And don't forget the styrene

[baitshopbilly]

here she is...

can't wait to set the first line!

[flabum1017]

That looks like someone from Iboats.com

[baitshopbilly]

styrene?

are you suggesting that I should vacuum my strake repair, additional strake support, and hull layer to reduce weight?

hhmmmmmmmm.........

still undecided.

if I bag, I'll probably use strechlon 800.

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Prod...m_bagging.html

still undecided, but weight is a factor for sure!

duh, first thing to pop in my head was plastic.lol

[baitshopbilly]

anyone have pics of custom floatation foam added under deck to keep boat up to coast guard snuff when removing old foam?

don't want it to sink like a rock if trouble arises

[tunnels]

styrene?

are you suggesting that I should vacuum my strake repair, additional strake support, and hull layer to reduce weight?

hhmmmmmmmm.........

still undecided.

if I bag, I'll probably use strechlon 800.

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Prod...m_bagging.html

still undecided, but weight is a factor for sure!

duh, first thing to pop in my head was plastic.lol

Do the strakes the way that was discribed then layers over the top ,you will have a strong bottom that will take a right old pounding .
Trying to skimp on resin by baging that size if boat is a waste of time and money .
Yes i agree dont get carried away by adding glass every where let common sense prevail.

[mr_velocity]

Do the strakes the way that was discribed then layers over the top ,you will have a strong bottom that will take a right old pounding .
Trying to skimp on resin by baging that size if boat is a waste of time and money .
Yes i agree dont get carried away by adding glass every where let common sense prevail.

I bagged to get all that extra epoxy out of it. Before I started bagging everyting was heavy, now I just throw out heavy bleeder sheets

[chynewalkr]

i havent read the whole post, but what kind of power is going on the boat?

[baitshopbilly]

haven't decided yet. coast guard specs are at 80 hp

was thinking about an 850sx.

it was recommended to me on another thread, and looks like a good fit.

I will start a thread in rigging for this.

Bill

[flabum1017]

Why go with what the Coast Guard considers safe for that boat?

A good 'ole Johnson v-4 bubbleback will do it justice or even a modded Yammi 90

[chynewalkr]

my boat is rated at 80hp also, yet i have what was a 115hp rude.

I see you live in McHenry, I will keep an eye out for you.

[tunnels]

my boat is rated at 80hp also, yet i have what was a 115hp rude.

I see you live in McHenry, I will keep an eye out for you.

Im using a 115 on a 14 ft fishing boat its the get up and go i want for those nice days to go far and fish longer .
Keep the transom thick and a little exta glass in the bottom as suggested and it will all hold together for many long hours of pleasure on the water and not having to constantly do repairs etc etc .

[baitshopbilly]

I think I have to grind the heck out of the transom, down to the hull.

take a look at this bubble between the hull and the old transom adhesive...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hTNrGiji8Q

just when I thought I was almost done grinding.

[tunnels]

I think I have to grind the heck out of the transom, down to the hull.

take a look at this bubble between the hull and the old transom adhesive...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hTNrGiji8Q

just when I thought I was almost done grinding.

I love you tube !!
Right i see what you have and its not that much of a major !
Simply get rid of the rubbish and grind back to the good glass
BUT DONT GRINDTHROUGHT THE GELL COAT!!!!
That area can and should be glassed with layers of csm to get it back level with the rest of the glass ok !When its hard do a reglass with some matt and csm under it cover the whole area . Now you have a good surface to carry on with when you put in the ply etc .
THE STRAKES
Before you start on Glassing the strakes get under the hull and cover the cracks with a wide masking tape , make sure its smooth and no creases . When you glass the inside resin and glass will come right through to the tape so when its hard you will be able to peel the tape and have a smooth surface to carry on with later
The strakes as i have already said 2 layers of csm in the cracked and ground out areas then a full length strip of csm from one end to the other -then a long strip of what ever matt you intend to use and a csm over the top . Let it go hard
AS i said fill the strakes level with end grain Balsa ,grind them flat and glass completely over the top at least 2 inchs out onto the hull surface , this turns the strake into a small stringer !!!! if need be and if there is room under the floor its a good place to put a small stringer on edge on top of it all , the balsa forms a excellent base for the stringer and will help stop any movement again

The cause of your starke problem normally comes from
1 - AS THE ROVING IS BEING LAID IN THE HULL AND BEING ROLLED OUT THE PERSON ROLLiNG ROLLS AWAY FROM THE STRAKE INSTEAD OF INTO IT AND PULLS THE ROVING AWAY SO A BUBBLE FORMS . THIS IS HARD TO SEE AND CAN AND NORMALLY DOES NOT SHOW UP FOR A LONG TIME .
2-POOR SUPPORT ON THE TRAILER AND THE ROLLERS PUSHING UP INTO THE BOTTOM AND THE STRAKE HAVEING 2 RIGHT ANGLES IS THE WEAKEST PLACE SO THE ROVING CAN AND DOES EVENTUALLY PULL AWAY AS IT IS STRONGER THAN THE CSM AND THE LAMINATE TEARS AWAY FROM EACH OTHER !

The first layer of glass sprayed on is usually RESIN RICH and rolled out good to eliminate bubbles and thats why it can take ages for these things to show up .
I had the same on a old boat i had , the crack was a couple of feet long away down near the back , the water was coming into the inside away up in the bow ! it was tracking all the way along the strake corner cavity on both sides of the hull .

Dont panick and dont hang up the grinder just yet !
You have made a good job by what i can see and the video is fantastic can stop ,pause and look then rerun etc etc . Keep at it !!