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Thread: Garage Heaters
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11-16-2006, 07:54 PM #15000 RPM
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Garage Heaters
Anybody have any luck with garage heaters besides you Florida guys who will just say,"Open the door!" I have a 2.5 wide with one bay being 28 feet deep. I don't spend THAT much time out there in the winter but would like it warm when I am. I'd really like to avoid installing a chimney also. I saw a wall hanging unit at Menards that uses natural gas. Haven't investigated it to see what the specs are. One problem is the 12 foot ceilings that will eat some of the heat but I can live with that. Any suggestions???
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11-16-2006, 08:03 PM #2
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11-16-2006, 08:23 PM #3
this could get complicated
i do h.v.a.c.(for a living),forced air (furnace)is gonna be the most solid and efficient way to go,the ideal thing would be to would be run duct and pull heat down to the floor w\return air,but if you don't want to make metal,you could just put a return air rack (on the side of the furnace cabinet)for the filter,and put a pleneum with a couple of take offs pointing in the direction of the garadge.you could use a 90%furnace (vented intake and exhaust)w\pvc,but vented still,(gonna need to vent either w\b-vent or pvc.but forced air is undoubtably the solid way to go.
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11-17-2006, 12:02 AM #46000 RPM
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At my auto shop and in my home garage I have natural gas infared radiant heaters. They heat objects not just the air.
Gary
I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.
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11-17-2006, 04:41 AM #5
yup
could go that rout also,infered does cling to objects,it's still gotta be vented,more that likely with a roof jack n collar n top.but,if there's major gas piping that has to be run,i would install a lp kit in the furnace n regulate it to 11 pds. intake side of gas valve n 7 pds. manifold side,if the garadge is attached to the house n you just gotta plum gas pipe out the ban-board of the house n run it to the furnace.
infared is something to think about also though.
you know you could just run it off a 20pd.propane tank like you use with your charcoal grill. it just needs to be regulated down to 11 in.pds.
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11-17-2006, 09:19 AM #65000 RPM
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Yeah, forced air furnace would be the way to go. I might still have a connection for used ones. And my existing chimney does run up thru one side of the garage. I just hate to do all that for the few times I'd use it. When I bought the house it had/has a hotel type unit in the outside wall that contains both heat and AC. Last winter, I turned it on and smoke started pouring out of the vent on top. Maybe I should pull the cover off and doublecheck THAT. I'm assuming that unit is hardwired and electric.
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11-17-2006, 12:25 PM #75000 RPM
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Clyde maybe that is where your cat was taking a nap...
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11-17-2006, 01:07 PM #8Screaming And Flying!
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I use a 5500 watt construction heater plugged into my welder outlet. It runs quite a bit once it gets cold.
There are several companies that make a little garage heater - here is one. They are mostly the same - 30-40,000 BTU, power horizantal venting, zero or 1" clearance to the ceiling. I roughed in the service for one but then gas went up and now there is no difference between gas and electric in terms of cost.
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11-17-2006, 01:18 PM #95000 RPM
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I heat a shop with a torpedo heater, 150K BTU heats up a 5000sq ft shop in under 3 minutes. I've got it hooked up to a thermostatically controlled electric outlet so it comes on and off as needed. I've been mixing 40 percent gas to the kerosene to eliminate the smell of kero. I wouldn't do it any other way! Oh and it's CHEAP!
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11-17-2006, 02:48 PM #10
I use my tent heaters because I have them They are a portable forced hot air propane heater that requires no vent. I ran one in a basement with frozen pipes for 2 hours with no CO2 build up. They have thermostats as well so they turn themselves on and off. They are around $600 for the 80,000 btu model.
Jim Garvey
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11-17-2006, 02:51 PM #11Originally Posted by Over-Easy
Ló fasz racing
Joe Horvath
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11-17-2006, 03:31 PM #125000 RPM
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Mixing gas makes the unit burn hotter and cleaner. I mix about 40% gas to kero. You may need to adjust the pump(easy) if it's running too much flame. Sure beats the burning eyes, and the headache.
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11-17-2006, 08:16 PM #13
what's the fire marshall say about that?
why ask me ?
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11-17-2006, 09:06 PM #14
yea thats the problem with kerosene
it does make quick work of heating (small areas)but the fumes are re-tarded,you talking about a 5,000 sqr.ft.garadge\poe-barn,if you run a kerosene heater long enough to get any kinda even heat,thats gotta hurt the eyes n head bad.
if you alraedy have a chimney to vent (a standard high-boy furnace)DO IT,you could pull a chimney-linner (for that furnace)if you wanted to,n thats it done deal,just figure if you wanna run natural gas or propane.
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11-18-2006, 02:29 AM #15
I just put in a 2-zone ductless heat pump for a guy to heat his 2 garages. One is for his Ranger Bass-Boat. The other houses his 1964 GTO convertible, and a 6? Impala, both mint.
I think the ultimate is radiant floor, if building new. Its easy and inexpensive to do the tubing. A tankless water heater with modulating gas valve (Rinnai is best), a circ pump, and its done.
Unit heaters, look for one with a stainless steel tubular heat-exchanger that can be vented horizontally through the sidewall. Grainger, of all places had the best deal going for a while. They still might. I think putting a plenum on a condensing furnace is not a good idea for a shop, the secondary heat exchanger clogs up too fast in any type of workshop environment. Unit heaters have propeller fans that wont clog up like squirrel cage blowers do.
Im trying to figure a way to avoid spending $1200 a pop on garage doors for my carport (Would need 2, its a drive thru) with 12x20 openings....
Here's an idea...... check into a motel, and swap your ptac unit with theirs, they mostly all use the same sleeve!