isolator

[woody]

I have Auto Meter isolator 5280 and Rex marine fuel press gauge but not sure how to hook them up . It's for 2.4 bp efi . The boat came with guage and isolator but no motor.

[phooker]

Is the isolator still hooked to the gauge? If yes, this may already be done. If no, the line between the isolator and the gauge needs to be filled with 50/50 glycol/water. The other (fuel) side of the isolator needs to be plumbed into the high pressure side of the EFI system. There are different places where it can be "teed" in.

I seem to recall that with my isolator came "loaded" - you had to fill the line before you uncapped the fuel side of the isolator. So you may need to "pump up" the gauge side to force the diaphragm back in place if the gauge side of the isolator has been unhooked.

I screwed and screwed with mine but could never get it to work correctly. Believe me - I tried everything. There was apparently not enough volume in the isolator to overcome the amount the line would stretch under pressure. I discussed using a different line with my Dad (a pretty good wrench) who remarked - "you can screw with that thing a lot and it will probably never work or you can install an electric gauge and sender and be done with it." I chose the latter. Your experience may be different.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

[Raceman]

The important thing with an isolator is to get EVERY SINGLE AIR BUBBLE out of the anti freeze side. (the line between the isolator and the guage) If there's the tiniest speck of air it'll make the guage read low, more air-worse reading. It's an aggravating process, usually involving a pan in the kitchen sink and a siringe.

[woody]

Thanks for the info guys, I read in some other posts on this that the guage side of the isolator was to be filled with anti freeze , just didn't know how to get the anti freeze in the line . There is what looks to be a bleed screw on the isolator .