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  1. #31
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    I assume its a 2.5 merc ? what you going to put it on?

  2. #32
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    Yeah, 2.5. Going on Triton Tr20 bass boat

  3. #33
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    You must do the bass boat racing thing?

  4. #34
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    No not yet lol, just like to tinker and modify everything I own lol

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  6. #35
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    I hear ya brother LOL me too,looking at a 14ft tunnel like mr demeanor has ? 101mph may be pretty hard to beat but im not trying to beat that anyway but 90s in something that small would be pretty damn scary.

  7. #36
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    I gotta real nice 13' with a 150 on a T2 mid with a speedmaster and dual stage nitrous iffn ya want a quick one.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  8. #37
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    I bet that is a handful!

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO View Post
    So if I buy me a good rigid hone some extra stones, make me a set like you described. Measure the cylinder the full length, take my time and work cylinder until I get true and correct clearances I could do it myself. I realized it's gonna be a time consuming project doing all six cylinders. What I suspect is main problem with my guy. His wife had been sick and he's busy with his machining. When you cut the wood down, do you make it the same size as stone or a little smaller, if thinner, how much thinner? Thanks for all the help.
    I threw way to much out there all at once . Much of it had to do with bore and or hone jobs that are done by guys that only do automotive blocks that have a bunch of room between the base of the cyl and the main web , which gives them a bunch of over travel ... Oppsss , I'm doing it again ..

    Your steel sleeve 2.5 that needs only .005 taken out of it to be brand new again is the smartest easiest thing to do .

    The final size of the finished bore is the part number on the ring package .

    If you measure the piston with a C type micrometer , it will be .007 - .008 smaller than the advertised oversize . This ( as said by another member ) is where your clearance is built in .

    If none of the cylinders have any tapered wear to them , then chances are your guy can do a good job without a set of bottom pressure stones .
    However if he spends to much time at the top of the bore , he will start to hone some taper himself . And without a set of bottom pressure stones like I posted a link to , then there is no real way to get it straight again .
    All kidding aside , if your guy doesn't have a rack full of different types of stones , then chances are you need to look for someone equipped to deal with the little things that can come up once your block is tied down in the machine .

    If you want to do it yourself , you will need to get a dial bore gauge , a 3" - 4" mike and a hone that will allow you to work a blind hole . I used a hand held ( 1/2" drill powered ) Sunnen AN 815 copy for a lot of years . I still have it and use it with a battery drill for rebuilding trim cylinders . Good tools will always be there for you .

    If all that is too much , you can buy a $19.99 hone at any of the blingy auto parts stores . Run it up and down a while and throw the piston in the hole with a feeler blade till it slides back and forth ...

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  11. #39
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    I understood what ya meant. I was thinking check the cylinder first with a dial bore gauge, if tapared work it back true slowly, then work it to just shy of correct clearance making sure it stays true along the way. Then do finishing hone job at the end . I was thinking spend the extra money on good hone if he didn't have time to do it, then I would always have it since in always fooling with these things. I'm pretty sure he has what he needs because he told me about his multi step finishing of the cylinders and I saw the rigid hone hanging there. Doubt he knows about the stone modification. The last I talked to him he told me he was trying to figure how he was gonna get them true. Which tells me he's thinking along the same lines as you, just hadn't came across solution yet.

  12. #40
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    Mr Don is a pretty sharp old dude, and has been around outboards a long time. All he does is Outboard's and small engines. He used to be on some big racing team crew back in the day. He does awesome work, has done all my block work, milling chest, boring, shaving fronts you name it. Hes one of those guys that shoots for perfection, which is why I wound rather him do it. I told him to do it on his time and I was in no hurry. He's an older gentleman and his wife has been sick so I don't want to bother him or rush him, but I also don't want to put him in a situation he's not comfortable with. Now I know you can't bore it and Chaz has given me the right idea how to keep it straight and straighten it out, I may try it just take my time. I now something like this is time consuming and is a lot to ask for someone to do that has outboards lined up for machine work. I want to thank all you guys for the input. Now I know there isn't but one way to do it and a lot of patience and time is required. No magic one step tool. I'll keep y'all posted how it goes and what path I take. ( hope Mr Don does it lol). But if not I got this, I got a lot of patience lol.

  13. #41
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    Chaz, what about the little oak filler? Do you make just a tad thinner than the stone you added just so it will be stable or how do ya make it once finished?

  14. #42
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    That deal is kind of a special purpose thing for engines that have usable bore below the honing head .. or for a cyl that has been honed to size at the top and needs a "hail mary" move to get material out of just the bottom . In other words , last ditch effort in saving a goobered up job , before needing to go to the next size to fix it .
    Nothing wrong with building a set of bottom only stones .. and hoping you never need to use them .. LOL I just sanded mine flush with the stone . They both wear at pretty much the same rate ... the wood just becomes part of the guide .. It wont take anything off the wall , and the wall is slow to take anything off of it ..
    If your guy is busy , that's a good sign that his services are in demand ... and worth the wait ..

  15. #43
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    Yes you right! I'm gonna get in touch with him this week and see what he thinks. Thanks for your input. I wish you where a little closer, your one of those guys like my friend T-Rex that you just like to visit and sit, talk, and drink coffee with and just soak up thier many years of experience and vast amount of knowledge.
    Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 05-20-2017 at 11:36 PM.

  16. #44
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    Talked to Mr. Don and got an update. He will be useing a computerized Sunnen honing machine with diamond tipped bits. He was at first contiplating doing it by hand with a rigid hone but said it was too time consuming. He had to build some type of holding fixture I'm guessing to hold the block true He said this should make it just like it was bored and be 100% true. Should be done this week. When I pick it up I'll try to get some more detail exactly what he had to do.
    Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 05-23-2017 at 05:37 AM.

  17. #45
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    You'll be pleased with his results. Same set-up my buddy uses.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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