Adding clearance to used cylinders.

**texasvector** · 05-19-2017, 10:18 PM

Keep posted...i got another block

**outasite** · 05-19-2017, 10:22 PM

Lysle makes an affordable ridged hone #15000 It an't no Sunnen but if your carefull and take your time will do a decent job-- Just get all the stones they offer,including the set for nic bores.

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-19-2017, 10:22 PM

I'll let ya know brother

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-19-2017, 10:27 PM

Thanks outasite, if no one wants to touch it, I may look at going that route and do it myself, and see how it turns out. I got a ton of patience.

**rude tim** · 05-19-2017, 11:59 PM

Sunnen key way hone.

**Chaz** · 05-20-2017, 08:23 AM

Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO

The guy that does my machine work has a block of mine to machine clearances for a set wisecos I'm gonna be running in it. Hes had it for awhile stressing about getting cylinders perfectly true and round (guy does great work and is a perfectionist). The problem is it's a .015 over block and I got .020 over wisecos. He said it's not enough metal to be removed with the boring bar, would have to be done with a hone. I wasn't aware of this when I purchased pistons. His concern is if cylinders aren't true, they will stay untrue. My guestion is, what can be used to increase clearance and true up a cylinder. Is it something worthwhile for me to purchase or would be too expensive?

Forbes ,
First , do you own the magazine too ...

Looking at the threads title , I thought you were going to ask : Is it better to just put one back together , or hone it first and get a straight hole even if it is a little loose.
To put one right back together , will more than likely will be a little weak from the start and get worse from there. To hone it a little loose will be fast , but the seal will go away quicker than a proper sized hole .
Like I tell people. If your an animal , you'll put the bones out the side before the seal goes away ..

Your guy is right , there is no way to bore one .005 That's only .0025 per side to work with for both boring and honing . Most guys leave .003 for honing anyway , so you can see your right there needing to go only a couple more .
The trick is to know that the rings have wore the bore in a slight taper twords the top where it leaves a ridge and how to hone the hole evenly .
Outboards have what is called a blind hole , meaning it's not open at the bottom for the hone to stick thru . To combat the effects of the stones spending little time at the bottom of an already tapered hole , all machines come with a dwell button that parks the head at the bottom for a few revolutions . More times than not the top will get to big before you can work enough out of the bottom , so the best thing to do from the very start is to get a set of "bottom pressure stones" like these from Goodson .

https://goodson.com/collections/good...oducts/hn-304s

You still run them top to bottom , but they will definitely give you the best chance of coming up with a straight hole early in the process . I like to follow with two or three strokes max with a 400 grit stone at light pressure , followed by an Osborne brush in reverse rotation . (not much different than sharpening a knife)

For the NIC blocks I buy big OD blanks and turn them to size . The ID of them are 3.514 when I send them out to be plated . When I get them back it looks like the wrench in the plasti-dip commercial . Thick and blobby lookin runs in it's raw form.
And the ID varies between 3.480 and 3.490 So I have to diamond hone .010 to .020 on those , which with the proper tools is only stupid expensive , but not difficult .

The real challenge is when you get one that is out to final size at the top and .002 - .005 small at the bottom . Or for cylinders that the head doesn't come off . And especially those 2.4 blocks that have the band all the way around the bottom .
All of the stone mfg's , want you to crash the head of the hone into the bottom before you hit the stone. So they build them a little short.
(I'm sure they have had some ****tard crash it and call them up and tell them what junk they make.)
So for cases like those , I take a section out of an old stone holder , epoxy it to the bottom of a new one and then use a short segment of stone and the rest in Oak ( no these weren't finished yet) to get a low reaching , get it big at the bottom quick tool .
I wish I could take credit for that one , but Kenny at Tennessee Abrasives was good enough to ed-jum-acate me when I saw that was going to be an issue ..

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-20-2017, 09:53 AM

Thanks for the input Chaz, sounds kinda what Mr Nickels is contemplating on. I think the biggest problem is the amount of time it's gonna take him. And no don't own the magazine, but sure wish it was true, then I wouldn't have to worry about this issue I'd just say do whatever it takes money is no object lol!! I will call him this week and get his thoughts and relay what you taught me. And again, you the man!!!

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-20-2017, 10:23 AM

So if I buy me a good rigid hone some extra stones, make me a set like you described. Measure the cylinder the full length, take my time and work cylinder until I get true and correct clearances I could do it myself. I realized it's gonna be a time consuming project doing all six cylinders. What I suspect is main problem with my guy. His wife had been sick and he's busy with his machining. When you cut the wood down, do you make it the same size as stone or a little smaller, if thinner, how much thinner? Thanks for all the help.

**racervboat** · 05-20-2017, 02:18 PM

i thought the wisecos has the clearance machined in them? a perfect .020 cylinder would be right on ????

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-20-2017, 02:29 PM

This is a .015 over block, I ordered pistons after measuring cylinders thinking it could be bored out a little. Didn't realize you couldn't bore that small of amount.

**racervboat** · 05-20-2017, 02:53 PM

got it. Is your block at .015 usable if so just sell them and get .015 pistons might take a small loss but I sell a lot of stuff on ebay and think you could come close to breaking even?

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-20-2017, 03:05 PM

Bores looked good, didn't really measure it thoroughly. Was just trying to start off with nice fresh bores. If it gets to too much of a hassle and bores are good enough I just may do that.

**racervboat** · 05-20-2017, 03:15 PM

If its an experiment motor[how much of an experiment motor is it] to just swap pistons and save the cost of machine wotk and do a quick hone your self ?

**racervboat** · 05-20-2017, 03:17 PM

LOL and if it works out good do the next one with new bores and pistons .

**FORBESAUTO** · 05-20-2017, 03:33 PM

It's a good motor with some wild porting that t-Rex had started on and was gonna try then he got out of it. It's a known good port map from John Marles, but a little wilder than I've fooled with so far. I'm running a pretty wild ported motor with basically the same port timing as this motor now, except for some stuff I didn't even know was possible to do to a block and it's a 4 petal,.with some things I've learned to make low end torque too. Most of the experimenting is see how my mods work in this thing or just worked well on my current combination. If it works it should be a sick river mota, if not I could convert it back to similar to what I have now, or get a light boat and race it.