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Thread: Looper exhaust porting
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12-01-2013, 07:21 PM #61
For what your trying to do adding finger ports would benefit you more then widening transfers. I would think more area in the transfers would make it lazy in the low rpm your trying to make it run.
I ported my brothers 3.3 and all I did was clean up the intakes attempting to maintain the stock angles but squared off boost and fingers at the roof. Exhaust is stock on the outside and ~.070 higher in the center. It is no where near tuned yet and it turns a 15x34 ET 72-7300 with only 16* 4 stroking the whole time.
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12-02-2013, 03:43 PM #62
I have the tools to cut fingerports, although I can't se where to put them due to the piston ring stops. I'm thinking about welding the block on the outside to be able to cut a slot to feed the boostport from the crankcase, my only worry is weather I will loose low end torque due to less crankcase pressure...
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12-02-2013, 03:54 PM #63Screaming And Flying!
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build a custom intake and move the reeds closer to the crank?
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12-02-2013, 04:25 PM #64
Your better off leaving it piston ported and cutting shallow fingerports then welding. If you add that much material all the heat can warp the block and require it to be line bored. I have seen people use Epoxy and it works but again for what your trying to do I would just cut them shallow. I have seen evolution blocks with shallow fingerports because the old blocks do not have the FP bosses in them.
Can you bore it to 3.685 and use OCean pro finger ported pistons?
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12-02-2013, 04:33 PM #65
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12-02-2013, 04:39 PM #66
The late model looper pistons have the locator pin in the finger port from the factory. This was supposed to keep the pin cool but they still had big problems. The latest wisecos have moved the pins out of the ports. Use the later wisecos give them .002 more clearance then a cast piston.
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12-02-2013, 06:43 PM #67
Just welding for the fingers is not an issue. Welding down by the flange is where you get into sealing issues. My V4 was welded everywhere. (Behind the liner motor) I sealed the case halfs with RTV, it worked just fine.
Last edited by 6Killer; 12-02-2013 at 06:46 PM.
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12-02-2013, 07:02 PM #68Screaming And Flying!
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one day someone might create a modular mold/plug and cast v4/6/8 with tons of behind the liner aluminium and open exhaust chest like a merc/old omc
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12-02-2013, 07:42 PM #69
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12-03-2013, 06:22 AM #70
Another question;
anyone familiar with the cast thickness in the exhaust chest??
I'm tryin to straighten out the exhaust passage from the port windows and further into the exhaust cavity. This is most important when it comes to cyl nr5 & 6, where the gases need to pass a 90deg turn. The reason I'm asking is because I'm afraid of grinding throught the wall of the exhaust cavity.
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12-03-2013, 07:13 AM #71Screaming And Flying!
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does anyone have a copy of the old SST 100 APBA engine specifications that shows the porting?
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12-03-2013, 07:46 AM #725000 RPM
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Nice thread people! I still have 2 3.3s I can do something with. Been wondering what the porting would do if anything with stock etec electrics.
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12-03-2013, 10:24 AM #73
How high is the exhuast port? If you stuff the CC a it should help wake up down low.
The chest on your 2.7 is the best stock chest they ever put on a block. Just clean it up a bit no need to do major surgery on a low rpm motor.
A ported E-tec will burn down without a map change.
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12-03-2013, 10:54 PM #745000 RPM
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I have two 100sst motors. What measurements of the porting are you wanting?
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12-03-2013, 11:22 PM #75Screaming And Flying!
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