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  1. #1
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    carbonfiber/kevlar layup

    after about 8 months of not working on the boat..I am back at it.

    It is going to be carbonfiber/kevlar layup with no core...what do you think putting down 2 layers of 5oz kevlar followed by one 5.7oz carbonfiber followed by 2mil coremat (in the areas the old core was) and then 2 layers of 5.7 carbonfiber? total cost on all that less epoxy is 550.00 I got a deal..thats less than screwing around with atc corebond and a composite core.

    I know the pros and cons but I want NO wood.

    I belive it will be lighter and a hell of alot stronger

    a pic of where I left off at...should I use 2mil or 4mil coremat?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0320.JPG   IMG_0336.JPG  

  2. #2
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    Is that a stream with a concave pad?

  3. #3
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    yes, vector... concave and hooked

  4. #4
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    Most comp boats didnt have a core but they had 4 stringers
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrconcrete View Post
    yes, vector... concave and hooked
    What year ,and what kind of power is going on it?

  6. #6
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    I'm not a huge fan of the coremat, it yealds no strength it just absorbs resin. By its self it breaks like a cracker. (if its the same coremat that we used to make consoles out of) I would rather see you use 1/8" k-mat or something like that. Its the same thickness, but it is actually a foam core product. Just an opinion. With all the high tech materials going into it, the coremat would be low tech in compairson.

    I also agree with the stringer coment, with no core you'll need more stringers spaced closer together. The material your putting into it wont build up much bulk or thickness. I probably would go with a 1/2" scrimed and scored core. Kevlar,Kevlar,Carbon, putty,core,Carbon,Carbon,6or8oz finishing cloth. The cloth is so you can sand it smooth and not burn through the carbon. Carbon sands real real easy be careful
    Last edited by Gorilla0178; 12-29-2009 at 07:19 PM.

  7. Thanks Scott in MN thanked for this post
  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla0178 View Post
    I'm not a huge fan of the coremat, it yealds no strength it just absorbs resin. By its self it breaks like a cracker. (if its the same coremat that we used to make consoles out of) I would rather see you use 1/8" k-mat or something like that. Its the same thickness, but it is actually a foam core product. Just an opinion. With all the high tech materials going into it, the coremat would be low tech in compairson.

    I also agree with the stringer coment, with no core you'll need more stringers spaced closer together. The material your putting into it wont build up much bulk or thickness. I probably would go with a 1/2" scrimed and scored core. Kevlar,Kevlar,Carbon, putty,core,Carbon,Carbon,6or8oz finishing cloth. The cloth is so you can sand it smooth and not burn through the carbon. Carbon sands real real easy be careful
    Thanks for the help...and yes I am putting in stringers kneebraces all the BS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kytekeith View Post
    What year ,and what kind of power is going on it?
    77..300+ 12" mid ,1.87 sporty

  10. #9
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    the more I think about it I will probably put a piece of corecell in instead of the mat.

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    Oh yeah corecell, the good stuff. Sounds like a plan.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrconcrete View Post
    after about 8 months of not working on the boat..I am back at it.

    It is going to be carbonfiber/kevlar layup with no core...what do you think putting down 2 layers of 5oz kevlar followed by one 5.7oz carbonfiber followed by 2mil coremat (in the areas the old core was) and then 2 layers of 5.7 carbonfiber? total cost on all that less epoxy is 550.00 I got a deal..thats less than screwing around with atc corebond and a composite core.

    I know the pros and cons but I want NO wood.

    I belive it will be lighter and a hell of alot stronger

    a pic of where I left off at...should I use 2mil or 4mil coremat?
    Time for a little thought to go into what you are going to do . Number one NEVER USE COREMATT IN THE BOTTOM OF A BOAT ! ANY BOAT !!!!!REGUARDLESS OF THE THICKNESS AND WHAT RESIN YOU ARE USING !!!!
    Can use it in the topside but NEVER in the bottom !! core matt will not stand any kind of flexual movement for any great period of time . and will shear and separate . DONT DO IT !!!!!

    Kevlar has a lots of streach and wont let go . Carbon has no streach and will break before it lets go .
    You would have to deal with the carbon and the kevlar using epoxy resin and nothing less!!
    Unidirectional fibre would be my choice just the oriantation of the strands would be the critical factor to gain the max amount of rigidity and stiffness from it !!.
    If you not having a core in the bottom then a couple of stringers each side will do wonders for what are looking for as well as the carbon fibre as the final top layers and stringers over the top of that with some good double bias cloth to hold them in and down onto the carbon .

  13. #12
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    I'm not a huge fan of the coremat, it yealds no strength it just absorbs resin.

    Need to put the record straight here!! do you understand what corematt is used for normally ??
    Anyone know !!
    Im going to wait for a reply or two and see if anyone is on the right track and understands the properties of core matt and its uses !!


  14. #13
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    core mat is a stiffner .. used between 1808 etc.. make a sandwich type

  15. #14
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    No core in a 300 hp vector...........wow.

    I'm sure the factory comp boats had a different skin lay up than the standard cored productions to toughen them up. The standard production boats skin is ass. I'd at least core the stressed running surfaces with some 1/4 composite something and the pad and inner areas with regular 3/8 or 1/2inch. I still don't see the facination of using carbon in a shell that is layed up like a ritz cracker to begin with.

    Running a non cored older 'stream with that kind of power is just asking to get your ass handed to you.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    No core in a 300 hp vector...........wow.

    I'm sure the factory comp boats had a different skin lay up than the standard cored productions to toughen them up. The standard production boats skin is ass. I'd at least core the stressed running surfaces with some 1/4 composite something and the pad and inner areas with regular 3/8 or 1/2inch. I still don't see the facination of using carbon in a shell that is layed up like a ritz cracker to begin with.

    Running a non cored older 'stream with that kind of power is just asking to get your ass handed to you.
    the pad will be cored....it also is getting C/F directional tape put down first.

    I dam near have all the old chit ground out as whats left is paper thin anyway..hell I am down to the black gell they put down after the flake in a lot of areas..LOL

    If all the old **** peels off than at least I will have something left to ride in
    Last edited by mrconcrete; 12-30-2009 at 04:05 AM.

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