twister - noisy

[Spreadeagle]

Red stripe twister/ssm

any idea on how to quiet it up - the darn neighbors are raisin a stink

I was thinking of blocking the above water exhaust openings and plumbing the water dump from the exhaust log into the plate that will be blocking the rear opening. I'm thinking this will route wet exhaust out of the ssm exhaust snout

thanks
Gary

[LakeRacer99]

Gary, I can help you out...bring it down here and trade it for a 1500XS, they are quieter...I can hook you up. :)
Sorry I can't be of more help.

[Spreadeagle]

I've got an xs - I just thought this twister would be more period correct for this boat. I didnt think the neighbors would be such whiners.

[Mark75H]

Show us some pictures .... a Twister should have had the exhaust coming out below the cav plate to begin with ..... do you have a "Cow Bell" Twister?

[SportJ-US-1]

I thought the reason for the Twister was all the loud, Gawd awlful noise they made. I would suspect a loss of performance with the plugged up exhaust.

[Raceman]

The Twister (red stripe) and Twister 1 (blue stripe) have similar exhausts. The reason they're both so loud is because even though the exhaust does re enter the side of the mid section when it exits the log, all this is dry. If you'll notice, the early red ones had a 3/4" hose at the top of the log that dumped most of the water and the later ones and all the blues (not sure exactly when the change was made) had a similar large dump from the bottom of the log. I think you'd find that if you directed all this water back in the slotted opening in the mid that it would quieten it significantly. I've got several of em, and I've never tried it, but it'd have to work. A champ motor, even with it's extra displacement and more open exhaust is a LOT quieter, and the only difference is the water.

Incidentally, I don't know which gearcase you're running. Someone who I recognize as being very knowledgeable on the early Twisters (he worked at Lake X back then) has always said every one of em were factory fitted with the MC1 Speedmaster, and all of em we see today with SSM's were retro fitted. If you do in fact have the MC1, I think you'll find that plugging the slot in the rear of the housing wouldn't effect performance, but only helps get the boat on top. Some of the earlier SSM's had fairly large exhause openings and I'd think they'd be adequate also, but the last design SSM is fairly restrictive there.

If you'r neighbors keep bitchin', I'll bring my twin engine stacker boat and make a pass and they'll be damn glad to have you back.:D

[LakeRacer99]

If you'r neighbors keep bitchin', I'll bring my twin engine stacker boat and make a pass and they'll be damn glad to have you back.

Gary...tell him your neighbors are still bitchin', we need some video footage of that Kitson/Stacker running...and video of your neighbor's faces when RM fired it up would be great also.
:D

[Spreadeagle]

mine dumps the water out the bottom. I'll just plumb it back into the mid. I couldn't believe how loud it is. I cant imagine what one with stacks would be like.

If ya ask me the darn wave runners are for more anoying than a little screamin 6 cyl.

[willabee]

There will be a very noticable drop in performance if you block the opening in the driveshaft housing. I wonder what you would sound like if you only routed the exhaust log water into that same opening. Would be very easy and inexpensive to try to see if that would be enough to satisfy the whinners:(
Red stripe twister/ssm

any idea on how to quiet it up - the darn neighbors are raisin a stink

I was thinking of blocking the above water exhaust openings and plumbing the water dump from the exhaust log into the plate that will be blocking the rear opening. I'm thinking this will route wet exhaust out of the ssm exhaust snout

thanks
Gary

[Raceman]

There will be a very noticable drop in performance if you block the opening in the driveshaft housing. I wonder what you would sound like if you only routed the exhaust log water into that same opening. Would be very easy and inexpensive to try to see if that would be enough to satisfy the whinners:(

I'm really curious what you base that statement on. I'll admit that I haven't ever blocked the opening in a Twister/Twister 1 mid, BUT I've run the same modified 260 V6 powerhead on both a std, non relieved mid, a factory relieved mid, and an offshore mid with the snout on the back and there was no measurable difference in performance. Based on that, and especially with the opening in an MC1 gearcase, together with the gearcase adapters from mid to lower that in most cases have exhaust relief also, I just have a hard time believing it'll choke it enough to make a measurable difference. Just like with the V6's, I think the exhaust tuning is pretty much all over with once it leaves the chest (exhaust log in this case) and I can't believe there's enough restriction down there to make any measurable difference. I ain't sayin' it for fact, but it shore' seems logical to me. The big drawback, like I already said is, the early Twisters are dogs down low, especially with Speedmasters, and pluggin' the hole might make gettin' the boat on top a challenge, especially if it's on a V Bottom.

[willabee]

The only time I remember using the MC1 speedmasters was at Parker on the 1400 Morgan carbed C6. When we started racing with that engine, the SSM units started failing at a very high rate. Some internal redesign was required to keep it together with the new power. That was the year of " The Flying Circus". The MC1 units held up, but made those single engine tunnels behave much differently than our drivers were used to. I think we had 10 or 12 boats at that race, and between practice and the race, only 2 of them did not blow over. Everyone was in a big hurry to get the redesigned SSM back. I mention this because I don't think any of the performance outboards were sold with MC1 speedmasters.
[/QUOTE]

[mwr_1]

The red stripe twister was called Twister I and the blue was Twister II. I had one that was a dog out of the hole so I made a hinged flap that would close off the exhaust until I got up and running then I would open the flap. I connected a cable (like an old choke cable) to the hinged part on the motor and had the pull on the side of the seat (a 15' Allison). It helped come out of the hole a lot and by opening it up once running I think it helped some to open the exhause but it would keep it quiter with the exhaust closed.

[Spreadeagle]

Ive got it set up an a Carlson Challenger with the top of the ssm torpedo set even with the bottom. the thing will jump up on plane. I'll try to get some pictures posted

[willabee]

It is based on the initial testing we did on the silo and cowbell exhaust systems. Intially, the cowbell performed much better than the silo. We used same boat,same prop ,same driver (Hering),etc. The only difference was how the exhaust was routed. The cowbell was into the log and out of the two bells at the bottom of the log. The silo was into the log, into the driveshaft housing and out of the SSM gearcase. One day we took a wholesaw and drilled an approximate inch and one-half hole in the rear of the DSH. That silo immediately started performing like the cowbell. A couple of smaller holes helped some more. One of the guys responsible for procuring the parts to build these engines said the most economic way to achieve what we were looking for was to machine a rectangular slot into the housings that were already designed, so that is what we did.

When we started working with Dr. Morgan on the C6, the day came when I drilled that same hole in his DSH and that engine improved immediately.


I'm really curious what you base that statement on. I'll admit that I haven't ever blocked the opening in a Twister/Twister 1 mid, BUT I've run the same modified 260 V6 powerhead on both a std, non relieved mid, a factory relieved mid, and an offshore mid with the snout on the back and there was no measurable difference in performance. Based on that, and especially with the opening in an MC1 gearcase, together with the gearcase adapters from mid to lower that in most cases have exhaust relief also, I just have a hard time believing it'll choke it enough to make a measurable difference. Just like with the V6's, I think the exhaust tuning is pretty much all over with once it leaves the chest (exhaust log in this case) and I can't believe there's enough restriction down there to make any measurable difference. I ain't sayin' it for fact, but it shore' seems logical to me. The big drawback, like I already said is, the early Twisters are dogs down low, especially with Speedmasters, and pluggin' the hole might make gettin' the boat on top a challenge, especially if it's on a V Bottom.

[willabee]

F.Y.I. - The red stripe was Twister and the blue was Twister I - the hinged flap is an interesting idea:)
The red stripe twister was called Twister I and the blue was Twister II. I had one that was a dog out of the hole so I made a hinged flap that would close off the exhaust until I got up and running then I would open the flap. I connected a cable (like an old choke cable) to the hinged part on the motor and had the pull on the side of the seat (a 15' Allison). It helped come out of the hole a lot and by opening it up once running I think it helped some to open the exhause but it would keep it quiter with the exhaust closed.

[Raceman]

The red stripe twister was called Twister I and the blue was Twister II. .

I'm sorry, but that's incorrect information. The red striped Twister was simply called "Twister". The blue one in 72 was called Twister 1. The Twister II was a 6 carb engine on a totally different mid, WITHOUT the exhaust log, having 6 one barrrel Tillotsen carbs and a one piece plastic lift off cowl. The Twister and Twister one had the same bolt pattern on the bottom of the block as the 70/71 model 1150 and 1350. The Twister II or T2 as many referred to it had the newer bolt pattern of the 1400/1500 engines.

[Raceman]

I mention this because I don't think any of the performance outboards were sold with MC1 speedmasters.


Here's what I base my opinions of the gearcases on: First, I own what MAY BE the most original and lowest hour Twister (red) in existance. A non racer in Idaho bought it and installed it on a Switzer Shooting Star. I bought the boat from him and he and his daughter delivered it here. The boat was never satisfactory as a high perf family boat and when it arrived, he told me that the engine had "probably less than 10 hrs. from new". His daughter quickly added, "I'd guess it's got considerably less than 5 hrs". Apparently out of frustration, they just pulled the boat/motor in the back of an enclosed garage and let it sit for years under a cover. Anyhow, the owner stated that the gearcase had never been off of it since the day he purchased it new. It has an MC1 Speedmaster.

Secondly, my friend Wally Dupree retired from Merc several years ago after years in the Atlanta Branch. As a kid, his father had various jobs with Merc, one of which was running the proving ground at Sarasota, and Wally also worked as a test driver at various times. Wally and his brother had short inline 6's on small high perf boats from the time he was about 13 or so. When I first met them, Wally had a Magnum Missle with a Twister 1 and his brother had a Magnum Missle with a 73 model short 1500. Wally made the statement then that all the Twisters and Twister 1's were delivered from the factory with MC1's and that most people threw em in the trash and put the SSM's on em.

Incidentally, I have a (blue) Twister 1 that I've bought and a good friend has picked up for me up North. I haven't even seen the engine yet, and know very little about the history, but it too has an MC1 on it.

I now own about 5 (I think) MC1 Speedmasters and all except for one have the outboard driveshaft, rather than the short stub with the Mercruiser spline.

All this stuff doesn't matter much I don't reckon, but it's interesting to me from a historical standpoint at least. For you guys that haven't seen my past babbles, I've got at least one of every Twister ever made and several of most. My interest is in the historical sequence and at some point in the not too distant future I'll have em all displayed in the sequence and original factory configurations as best I understand them.

[T2x]

My interest is in the historical sequence and at some point in the not too distant future I'll have em all displayed in the sequence and original factory configurations as best I understand them.

In a cave in Romania............. complete with bats.

T2x :p :p :p :p

[willabee]

RACEMAN - I must be confusing what we did on the race team with what I thought they did with the 100 engine build. We had no success with the MC1 and went back to the "improved" SSM right away. I thought that happened in time for the build, but apparently it didn't. I say this because your Twister has a MC1 on it and it's a safe bet the guy you bought it from didn't pull the SSM off and put the MC1 on:o

Sure wish I could figure out how to put a phase in the blue box:(
Here's what I base my opinions of the gearcases on: First, I own what MAY BE the most original and lowest hour Twister (red) in existance. A non racer in Idaho bought it and installed it on a Switzer Shooting Star. I bought the boat from him and he and his daughter delivered it here. The boat was never satisfactory as a high perf family boat and when it arrived, he told me that the engine had "probably less than 10 hrs. from new". His daughter quickly added, "I'd guess it's got considerably less than 5 hrs". Apparently out of frustration, they just pulled the boat/motor in the back of an enclosed garage and let it sit for years under a cover. Anyhow, the owner stated that the gearcase had never been off of it since the day he purchased it new. It has an MC1 Speedmaster.

Secondly, my friend Wally Dupree retired from Merc several years ago after years in the Atlanta Branch. As a kid, his father had various jobs with Merc, one of which was running the proving ground at Sarasota, and Wally also worked as a test driver at various times. Wally and his brother had short inline 6's on small high perf boats from the time he was about 13 or so. When I first met them, Wally had a Magnum Missle with a Twister 1 and his brother had a Magnum Missle with a 73 model short 1500. Wally made the statement then that all the Twisters and Twister 1's were delivered from the factory with MC1's and that most people threw em in the trash and put the SSM's on em.

Incidentally, I have a (blue) Twister 1 that I've bought and a good friend has picked up for me up North. I haven't even seen the engine yet, and know very little about the history, but it too has an MC1 on it.

I now own about 5 (I think) MC1 Speedmasters and all except for one have the outboard driveshaft, rather than the short stub with the Mercruiser spline.

All this stuff doesn't matter much I don't reckon, but it's interesting to me from a historical standpoint at least. For you guys that haven't seen my past babbles, I've got at least one of every Twister ever made and several of most. My interest is in the historical sequence and at some point in the not too distant future I'll have em all displayed in the sequence and original factory configurations as best I understand them.

[Spreadeagle]

here are some pics of the new water hose. seems a lot quieter on the hose. I'll try it at the lake later today.

as far as I Know this was a second owner unalterd red stripe twister. it did not come with the lower, however it did come with the ssm adapter, however it was only 3/4 " thick. I had to cut my driveshaft to make it work. was this typical?

[Mark75H]

No, that type adapter came out later.

[Raceman]

I'd say that adapter is a fabricated piece. The only ones I've ever seen that fit the BP, Twister, Twister1, & Twister 2 mid were 2 inches and a fraction and 3 inches and a fraction thick and were cast pieces. To the best of my knowledge, the flat plate didn't come out until the T2X/T3 style mid, which was 5" shorter than the T2 and backwards, and the later mids are different at the bottom, including width and of course bolt pattern.

That gearcase is a real early design and I'd guess there's plenty of area there for the exhaust to exit adequately.

One other thing that intrigues me about that engine is............... you say it's a red one, but all the red ones I've ever seen have the water dump at the top of the log. I've never known exactly when they changed, but all the T1's (blue) I've seen had it dumped at the bottom like it appears yours does. Also, there are two different design mid sections, one with the log bolts going directly into the housing and the other with a plate there with a larger bolt pattern, then the log bolts into it. I'd like to see pics of that side of the engine.

[Bruster]

When I ran my 1500XS with a SSM on a Carlson it wasn't noisy (at least I didn't think it was) at all. The only exhaust relief was thru the lower unit. If the water was re-directed thru the inside of the housing similar to the XS and the adapter and mid was blocked off I don't think the performance would suffer and the motor should be quiet enough. :eek:

[Spreadeagle]

here is a pic of the exhaust log-

it has the big plate bolted to the mid and the log bolts to the plate.

is that the eqarly or late design?

[PARKER RABE]

man thats sweet !

[Bruster]

Gary,
Maybe you could try this if all else fails :eek:
http://store.yahoo.com/earplugstore/index.html

[Spreadeagle]

heck with the neighbors. let 'em bitch. its way too much fun to leave on the trailer